My bearded dragon, which is almost a year old, has mbd (he’s under treatment). Now, I suspect he is going to brumate, as right now the temperatures are much cooler (tho the terrarium’s temperature is the same). In the morning he is out for a couple of hours, but the rest of the day he is sleeping under his hide. I’ve also noticed he has less appetite, and is pooping a lot. Now, he is also going to shed VERY soon. Today I gave him some crickets, and e time I take him out, he stays out for a couple of more hours, then goes back to sleep. He is VERY sleepy. Now, I’m a very paranoid person, will something happen to him if he has mbd and is brumating? (He really needs uvb). Also, the same question but is something going to happen if he brumates while shedding)
I need help.And quickly!
- Thread starter Rony
- Start date
- Status
Hello,
That is most definitely a concern, when they have metabolic bone disease & brumation
You can take his hide out right now, encourage him to sit out a bit more so that he will
get more UVB instead.
As far as shedding goes, it wont hurt him to shed while he is slown down some. A lot of
them shed during their resting phases. It's fine to let him slow down a little bit & sleep
but since he has metabolic bone disease, he does need some basking time also.
Tracie
That is most definitely a concern, when they have metabolic bone disease & brumation
You can take his hide out right now, encourage him to sit out a bit more so that he will
get more UVB instead.
As far as shedding goes, it wont hurt him to shed while he is slown down some. A lot of
them shed during their resting phases. It's fine to let him slow down a little bit & sleep
but since he has metabolic bone disease, he does need some basking time also.
Tracie
Can you post pics of him [ full body ] as well as his entire set up ? What exact lights are you using + what are the temps. ? That's all very important. I agree that you don't want to force him to stay active if he wants to sleep, so let him do so off + on for a bit. But if there are things you can adjust to perk him up then that would be wise. Pics will help, here's how to post them :
https://www.beardeddragon.org/useruploads/ Then use the XMG to upload them
https://www.beardeddragon.org/useruploads/ Then use the XMG to upload them
AHBD":1wdo4ifz said:
You obviously put a lot of time + work in to making his set up, so it's easy to see that you care for the little guy. 
However, the tank needs major changes and so do the lights. And your guy is waaaay too small to brumate. Your uvb is a coil or compact [ the 2 prongs ] so it's not putting out very much at all, and only in a very small area. The companies make big money on a product that is not adequate for it's intended use. He will never get better one bit in that set up, he will get worse. It's imperative to do some changes very quickly. Order a new uvb bulb ASAP, you need a long tube [ linear ] Reptisun 10.0 . He also needs to be in a smaller tank and no rocks like you have there. His bones are brittle now and could actually break trying to walk over those. See how his front arm curls in ? That's bone disease. So set him up on folded up newspaper and just put a sheet of non adhesive shelf liner [ Walmart or Dollar store, etc ] so he isn't on such hard surfaces.
You need to section off half of the tank as well. Set up the flooring like I mentioned and get the proper uvb lights. He is sleepy now, not because of brumation, but because he is not well and has no energy. Make the changes ASAP and hopefully you'll see him do better but it will take a wile. When you feed him, make sure he stays in the heat of his tank to digest food, he can't be out for hours with no heat or uvb. I know you want to snuggle with the little guy but he needs to be where the heat + uvb are. Keep in mind that without these changes he will never get better.
However, the tank needs major changes and so do the lights. And your guy is waaaay too small to brumate. Your uvb is a coil or compact [ the 2 prongs ] so it's not putting out very much at all, and only in a very small area. The companies make big money on a product that is not adequate for it's intended use. He will never get better one bit in that set up, he will get worse. It's imperative to do some changes very quickly. Order a new uvb bulb ASAP, you need a long tube [ linear ] Reptisun 10.0 . He also needs to be in a smaller tank and no rocks like you have there. His bones are brittle now and could actually break trying to walk over those. See how his front arm curls in ? That's bone disease. So set him up on folded up newspaper and just put a sheet of non adhesive shelf liner [ Walmart or Dollar store, etc ] so he isn't on such hard surfaces. You need to section off half of the tank as well. Set up the flooring like I mentioned and get the proper uvb lights. He is sleepy now, not because of brumation, but because he is not well and has no energy. Make the changes ASAP and hopefully you'll see him do better but it will take a wile. When you feed him, make sure he stays in the heat of his tank to digest food, he can't be out for hours with no heat or uvb. I know you want to snuggle with the little guy but he needs to be where the heat + uvb are. Keep in mind that without these changes he will never get better.
AHBD":asgsbvgo said:You obviously put a lot of time + work in to making his set up, so it's easy to see that you care for the little guy.
You need to section off half of the tank as well. Set up the flooring like I mentioned and get the proper uvb lights. He is sleepy now, not because of brumation, but because he is not well and has no energy. Make the changes ASAP and hopefully you'll see him do better but it will take a wile. When you feed him, make sure he stays in the heat of his tank to digest food, he can't be out for hours with no heat or uvb. I know you want to snuggle with the little guy but he needs to be where the heat + uvb are. Keep in mind that without these changes he will never get better.
Alright, I will DEFINIETLY change the rocks. Tho he has been improving a lot since I put him in that set-up, uvb is present in most of the tank really, there are 4 lamps in total. Anyways thanks for the advice (I think it’s just cause of the shed) I will definitely follow the steps you gave me ^^
kingofnobbys
BD.org Sicko
In addition to the improvements already in hand .
Can you tell us EXACTLY what the UV sources are
%UVB on the existing Zoo Med 26W compacts
distance to basking spot for the basking UV
distance to the "ground" for the other UV
how old is existing globe ?
I note that you have every light above or sitting ontop a very fine mesh (lid) , this is VERY MUCH NOT IDEAL, the mesh is likely blocking 45 - 50% of the UVA & UVB put out by these compact (curly) UVB globes, so your dragon is NOT getting sufficient UVA (will result in lethargy and lack of appetite) and insufficient UVB to photosynthesis VitD3 in it's skink ( will eventually result in many serious health issues including the inability to process dietary calcium and MBD ).
I STRONGLY SUGGEST moving the existing UV globes so theIr domes are suspended UNDER the mesh lid.
And at the very least I suggest replacing the UVB globes with Exo Terra 26W UVB200 globes.
Ideally an upgrade to an Arcadia T5HO 12%UVB tube not more than 3/4 the length of the tank in a good reflector hood mounted UNDER the mesh lid is the BEST way forward as well a good warm incandescent or halogen spot globe (colourless par38 globes) are excellent.
Aim for basking spot between 38 - 40 degC.
Aim for a warm zone between 30 - 36 degC.
Aim for a cool zone no cooler than 28 degC.
I have other improvements in mind but these are not as urgent :
>> replace mesh lid with a solid timber lid
>> convert to front opening tank (flip tank on side)
>> ditch the carpet
Can you tell us EXACTLY what the UV sources are
%UVB on the existing Zoo Med 26W compacts
distance to basking spot for the basking UV
distance to the "ground" for the other UV
how old is existing globe ?
I note that you have every light above or sitting ontop a very fine mesh (lid) , this is VERY MUCH NOT IDEAL, the mesh is likely blocking 45 - 50% of the UVA & UVB put out by these compact (curly) UVB globes, so your dragon is NOT getting sufficient UVA (will result in lethargy and lack of appetite) and insufficient UVB to photosynthesis VitD3 in it's skink ( will eventually result in many serious health issues including the inability to process dietary calcium and MBD ).
I STRONGLY SUGGEST moving the existing UV globes so theIr domes are suspended UNDER the mesh lid.
And at the very least I suggest replacing the UVB globes with Exo Terra 26W UVB200 globes.
Ideally an upgrade to an Arcadia T5HO 12%UVB tube not more than 3/4 the length of the tank in a good reflector hood mounted UNDER the mesh lid is the BEST way forward as well a good warm incandescent or halogen spot globe (colourless par38 globes) are excellent.
Aim for basking spot between 38 - 40 degC.
Aim for a warm zone between 30 - 36 degC.
Aim for a cool zone no cooler than 28 degC.
I have other improvements in mind but these are not as urgent :
>> replace mesh lid with a solid timber lid
>> convert to front opening tank (flip tank on side)
>> ditch the carpet
- Status
Latest resources
-
General Care Practical tips: A healthy brumating bearded dragonPractical tips to help keep your bearded dragon healthy during brumation
- Shinryu
- Updated:
-
-
Lighting Beginner Guide to Bearded Dragon LightingA basic lighting setup for any bearded dragon.
- Shinryu
- Updated:
-
Lighting Introduction to UV LightingMake a more educated purchase on your next UVB light.
- Shinryu
- Updated:
-
General Care Bearded Dragons - Care SheetAn all-in-one guide to caring for your bearded dragons.
- Shinryu
- Updated:
Latest profile posts
I just walked into my room and instead of looking at me, Swordtail's eyes darted directly to the ice cream drumstick I'm holding
