Probably just relocation stress, sometimes it can take a few weeks before their good to go. Especially if you don't have a correct setup which you most likely dont if you didn't do any real research and listened to the store employees. Not your fault though as you SHOULD be able to listen to petstore's and get correct info but sadly they don't even know one thing about what they sell.
2-3 months sound about right, lights should be on for 14 hours at the very least not 12. Thats to little for a growing beardie and even then adults should only have it on for 12 if their burmating or your trying to get them to burmate and then breed them.
No lights on at night, or anything on at night unless temps drop below 65, in that case you need a CHE/Ceramic heater. Bearded dragons see in full color, and a bit more than we do so any light at night will disrupt sleep.
What is his temps monitored with? (Temp gun, digital thermometer with a probe, ect)
What are all his temperatures? (Basking, warm, and cool)
What is his substrate?
What is his UVB? (coil/compact/tube/mvb?)
What brand is the UVB?
Is it a 10.0 or a 5.0, or a 12%-14% bulb?
If a tube is it a T8 or a T5?
how big is the tube light?
A small basic
care sheet for lighting, tank size and substrate so you can get correct info.
Enclosure size for baby less than 6 months - 20 gallon.
Enclosure size for 6-12 months - 40 or 50 gallon.
Enclosure size for 12+ months or right when you get it - 75 gallons (48"x18"x20") or 120 gallon (4x2x2).
UVB lighting - Reptisun T5 HO 10.0 UVB Tube Light with a fitting reflective fixture.
20-50 gallons 22" or 34", 75+ gallons 34" or 46".
Replace every 6-12 months.
This should sit right over the basking spot, either behind the basking light or in front.
Basking bulb - Bright white light, either regular reptile bulb or a halogen bulb. Wattage depends on temps inside house and tank height.
You can also go with Powersun, Arcadia or Megaray MVB's for heat. These produce both UVB and heat but you'll still need a UVB tube light beside it.
Temperatures -
Basking temp 100-110, no less no more. Prefered is 105.
Warm side temps (areas around the direct basking spot) 88-95.
Cool side temps 70-85 and no more.
Night time temps 65-85 and no more.
If it goes below 65 you need a Ceramic heat emitter or a CHE. This produces no light so it wont disturb your reptiles sleep as they can see most colors that we can if not more.
Substrate - Paper towels, tile, possibly newspaper, non adhesive shelf liner, AstroTurf possibly or repti-carpet.
Do not use particle substrates, they will cause impaction, prolapses (this can cost 1,000 dollars to fix), stained scales, joint issues, bacterial infections, fungal infections, mold possibly, high humidity, eye infections and much more.
A little feeding guide for you.
All life stages eat 10-20 bugs a feeding.
1-4 months 3x a day.
4-12 months 2x a day.
12-20 months once a day.
20+ months twice a week at the least, every other day at the most.
Staple feeders - Crickets, locusts, grasshoppers, silkworms, black soldier fly larvae, dubia roaches, turkish roaches, possibly earthworms.
Treat feeders - Waxworms, hornworms, superworms, mealworms, butterworms.
Wax worms - once a week, 4-5 max.
Hornworms - every other day to every two days, 4-6 max.
Mealworms - every other day to every two days, 5-10 max. Only for beardies above 6 months.
Superworms - once or twice a week, 3-4 max. Only for beardies above 12 months.
Butterworms - once or twice a week, 3-4 max.
Daily greens- Turnip/collard/mustard greens, endive, and kale if added to a mixture of the other staple greens mentioned.
Fruit once or twice a week - Banana, strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, red raspberries.
For more food items -
http://www.thebeardeddragon.org/bearded ... ta.php#veg
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
You should have two supplements at the very least, a calcium without D3 and Multivitamin.
For beardies less than 2 years old - 5x a week for calcium, 2x a week for Multivitamins.
For beardies at or more than 2 years - 1-4x a week for calcium, 1-2x a week for multivitamins.
This is for regular healthy beardies, depending on health state it may need more calcium or less calcium.
Dust at least one insect meal when dusting, lightly dust. For beardies more than two years old on non insect days you can dust the salad..