Paralysis, thoughts?

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jnwc82

Member
Hello everyone!

It has been a while since I have posted here or asked questions. Still read through every now and then and we always find such helpful information. I am hoping I could get some thoughts on what is going on with one of our scale-babies. The 'tail' begins... :lol:

Right before Christmas we adopted two 3 year old female dragons, Dani and Taddy. Up until this past weekend they both seemed to be doing very well. They both gained about 50g each and are getting used to being snuggled. Dani came to us gravid, though you couldn't tell, and over the course of two days laid 19 eggs. Taddy became gravid for the first time in her life and just had her clutch two weeks ago, a whopping 23 eggs! They have been eating well and staying pretty active.

Friday of last week we started noticing that Dani was being sluggish. We figured brumation or her shedding was tiring her out. Brumation was quickly discarded as she voraciously attacked her roaches and salad like it was her last meal. So we let her soak longer that night to help with her shed. Over the next few days she moved less and less. Sunday morning we noticed she was not using her front legs at all. Again we thought it had to do with the shedding, so she had a long bath where I helped her remove the loose skin.

After her bath I gave her a treat, her first superworm in her new home. She moved like a snake with legs going after it. I have never seen anything like it. Her front legs did not move at all and her back legs moved just enough to help propel her towards her goal.

The next morning she was at he vet's office. Her x-ray looked good, no injury or sign of blockage. The doc did say there seemed to be a bit of gas trapped. We were unable to get a fecal sample but we did blood work. The doctor said he believes she may have the early stages of MBD, gave her a calcium shot, and sent home syrup calcium for her and Taddy (to be on the safe side). Doc had us change up her diet a little to help pass the gas, Dani is now eating chicken and veggie baby food. :puke: Both of our reaction... She hates it so much, she mustered up enough mobility to walk away from me last night!! It was a wonderful sight to see her taking those steps! We weren't expecting to see any improvement for at least a week!

Now, bringing it back to today, the blood panel came back. Doc called telling me the panel looks good and her calcium is 13 (I guess that's good? IDK). So, good news there! Still need her to produce a fecal outside of the bath so we can check her for parasites. Just a recap, good xray, no infections, good calcium... No idea what is causing the paralysis...

Taking it back to when we got them...
The home they came from was not entirely beardie friendly so we changed a lot when they moved in with us. We got rid of their food pellets and freeze dried veggies, they now get dubias every other day and salads every day (primarily collard and mustard greens, bok choy, occasional tomatoes, broccoli, bell pepper, blueberries, and apples). The dubias are gut-loaded and dusted with calcium, the salads get a general vitamin powder twice a week.
The girls never really got baths before and are now receiving them weekly. We threw out their original bulbs replacing them with 125w Solar Glos, warm side of tank is kept at 96 during the day and drops to about 77 at night. They were both on a crushed walnut substrate, we ditched that for slate tile. Gave them both new toys, small soaking tubs, hides, and logs. (basically we just kept their tanks and threw everything else out...)

If you read through all of that, I commend you! You are now up to speed with our new family additions. So, lay them on me... Questions, thoughts, advice? Really I just want to know if any of you have heard of this and if so, what caused it.

Thank you all so much for your time away from your own beautiful beardies to read about mine!
 

EllenD

Gray-bearded Member
Welcome to the forum! And thank you for taking in these girls, you are obviously giving them a great home!

Do you have them housed together? I'm asking because a lot of the time when dragons are housed together long-term, even 2 females, you end up with one dragon that thrives and one who is just the opposite, and the first sign/symptom of one of the dragons being the submissive, non-thriving dragon is usually a calcium deficiency and MBD. Just a thought.

Otherwise, it could very well be the MBD causing the partial paralysis, as a lot of dragons who are suffering from MBD actually often keep their front legs underneath their bodies, sometimes they are even folded underneath their bodies, and they don't often use them. That's a definite sign of MBD, as is a partial paralysis or even just a weakening of their back legs/entire back end of their bodies, and this also often makes it difficult for them to have bowel movements unless they are in warm water. When is the last time she had a bowel movement? And the time before that? Were they average size, or were they very tiny?

The eggs of course always cause concern, especially in a dragon suffering from MBD, as they use so much calcium to make eggs that they can end up leeching it out of their bones for the eggs, and this can cause advanced MBD symptoms. Her blood calcium level is good, yes, but that doesn't really say much about her bond density overall...

My main concerns would be #1) A bowel impaction causing weakness (if she's having normal bowel movements then this is not a problem), #2) The MBD is not reversing but getting worse, causing the weakness/paralysis, #3) Another clutch of eggs, or at least the follicles have formed, which would be sucking up more calcium, and even an egg or follicles putting pressure on her spinal column...

I know the vet did an x-ray and saw some gas, and no eggs, but a plain-film x-ray will not show follicles developing, and it's unusual for a dragon to only lay one clutch at a time, they typically do have 2-3 clutches at a time. So it's quite possible that this is what is going on, and this combined with the calcium deficiency/MBD is what's causing her problems...an Ultrasound would have been a better option for the vet to choose, that way he may have been able to see if another clutch was coming...

One of the best things you could do for her, in my opinion, is to switch to a much stronger UVB light. I'm not a fan of MVB lights in general, that's just me, because you cannot control the heat seperately from the UVB, however, unfortunately the SolarGlo MVB is the weakest MVB and is historically a bad choice for Bearded Dragons. It's not that it's a bad MVB, from what I have heard it's a beautiful light, and is fine for Tropical reptiles, but it is not at all recommended for a Bearded Dragon or any desert reptile who needs strong UVB light. In fact, it seems that every time a new poster on here lists a SolarGlo MVB as their only UVB source, this is the problem and they at the very least need to add a long T5 strength UVB tube/fixture, which corrects the problem quickly.

In Dani's specific situation, with her suffering from the MBD and having paralysis/weakness and trouble moving, and then combining the fact that she just laid a clutch of eggs and may be getting ready to lay another, I highly recommend that you add either a Reptisun 10.0 T5HO or an Arcadia 12% T5 UVB tube, at least a 22"/24" inside a 24" fixture that has a reflector inside it. The T5 tube can be added alongside the SolarGlo, the T5 tubes are very strong and can sit on top of the mesh lid to the tank as long as they are within about 10" or so of the basking spot/platform, and they only need to be replaced once every 12 months, just as the MVB lights do. I really think that adding a strong, long, T5 strength UVB tube will make a huge difference here, as the SolarGlo MVB lights are just not strong enough to provide proper UVB light to a healthy Bearded Dragon, let alone one already suffering from MBD and laying eggs on top of it.
 

jnwc82

Member
Original Poster
Hello EllenD! Thank you for replying!

Starting off with your questions:
-The sisters are not housed together, they each have their own 55 gallon room.
-Dani BMs for the past week are as followed: Friday morning - a bit off a runny BM and small urate with no discoloration, Sunday - BMed right in the tub, normal size and consistency, normal urate with no discoloration, Wednesday - Again right in the tub, small in size but looked normal, same with the urate, normal looking just smaller than usual. Normally Dani goes to beardie restroom approximately once a week.
- We are extremely concerned with the idea of her becoming gravid again. I spoke with the woman I got her from and was told Dani would have a clutch every 6 to 8 weeks like clockwork since she was just under a year old. I will be speaking with the Vet about having her ovaries removed as this seems to be an on going issue.
- I will definitely look into getting the ReptiSun for each of them, we have been hearing great things about them. We normally like to take them outside for a couple of hours a day for some of the good natural stuff but it has been much too cold for the scale babies this winter.

So, do you think her taking a few steps last night was more her showing determination to get away from the strained chicken than an actual improvement? She is a bit bull headed so I could see her being that stubborn.

Thanks again!
 

EllenD

Gray-bearded Member
Well, it was probably due to her wanting to get away, but the fact that she could do it in the first place is a positive! I'm glad you're aware of the fact that she could very well have multiple clutches, although I don't think that I would automatically assume that she'll have a clutch every 6-8 weeks simply because of her age. First of all, most dragons who are under a year old don't lay clutches, usually that doesn't happen until they are at least a year old, a lot of the time it doesn't happen until they are at least 2 years old, sometimes it never happens. There's no rhyme or reason as to why and when it happens, but it is true that they typically don't lay just one clutch, usually it's 2 or 3 a season once they lay the first one. And obviously the fact that she is already suffering from a calcium deficiency and MBD, as that will be totally counterproductive to her recovery from the MBD.

Usually dragons who are suffering from a calcium deficiency and MBD are going through it not because they were deprived of adequate calcium in their food or not given a calcium supplement powder often enough, but rather it's due to them not getting adequate UVB light, and I'd bet that's the case in as high as 80% or more of the cases...probably more towards 90%. The problem is that there are hundreds of UVB lights being sold and marketed for desert reptiles and bearded dragons directly, with photos of dragons right on the packaging...and only an extremely small fraction of these UVB lights emit anywhere near adequate UVB/UVA light for a bearded dragon. And that's sad, because it's not the owner's fault, half the time it's the pet shop employee recommending a compact or coil UVB bulb that is only 13 watts. Or if it's a really uneducated pet shop employee, they end up selling them a basking bulb that says "UV" light on it, but it emits no UVB at all. Or they don't sell them a UVB light at all. And even when they do sell them a long, fluorescent UVB tube, it's usually a much weaker T8 strength UVB tube, and they don't tell them that setting a T8 UVB tube on top of a mesh lid will block about 40% of the UVB light emitted by the weak T8 tube, rendering it basically useless. They also don't tell them that a T8 UVB tube must be at least within 6" of the dragon's basking spot/platform, or that it must be replaced every 6 months. Most dragon owners don't even know that there is a much stronger, more adequate, safer T5 UVB tube that they could buy.

Without 13-14 hours a day of strong UVB light, a dragon will not be able to absorb the calcium that they are ingesting in the food they eat or in the calcium powder they are being given. They can't absorb it, they can't process it, and they can't use it. They simply excrete it all in their bowel movements, and this is what causes most all cases of MBD, not a lack of calcium in the diet. That's exactly why I suggest that you get a T5 strength UVB tube that is at least a 10% UVB tube (as in Reptisun 10.0), I would suggest that if Dani was a perfectly healthy dragon. The fact that she is trying to recover from MBD and she is in the middle of laying egg clutches just makes it more urgent, especially since her current UVB light is an Exo Terra SolarGlo MVB, which unfortunately seems to cause nothing but problems for dragons. The MegaRay and the Arcadia MVB are both awesome MVB lights, and either one of those would be fine, but in her current situation, even if you had a MegaRay or an Arcadia, I think I would still suggest adding a long T5 strength UVB tube ASAP, as this is going to be what helps her start to recover from the MBD, as well as what gets her through laying another clutch of eggs without causing a very bad MBD downward spiral.

The good news is that she's young enough that a lot of the current damage from the MBD can be reversed if she is put under a strong, T5 UVB tube and given the liquid calcium supplement daily. I'd also be very careful about Gout becoming a problem, I forgot to ask you if you are noticing any swelling in any of her extremities. Take a good look at all 4 of her legs, feet, and all of her toes, and see if you see any noticeable swelling in any of them. That's typically the first sign of Gout developing, which obviously causes physical pain and disabilities as well.

I would look into switching her live, staple insect away from crickets and/or roaches and think about making it BSFL/Phoenix Worms. There are 2 reasons for this, #1) They have the highest natural calcium content of any live, staple insect appropriate for Bearded Dragons, and this obviously will help naturally with the MBD recovery once she is under a strong UVB light, and then #2) They have a very high level of non-purine based protein, which is one of the main causes of Gout in Bearded Dragons. Crickets and Roaches are full of purine-based protein, and it's thought that due to what the vendors, all of the vendors it seems, feed their crickets and roaches (cheap, high purine food, such as Dog Food), this is what is causing the increasing occurrence of Gout in Bearded Dragons. And when a dragon is laying multiple clutches of eggs, this can often lead to issues with Gout, especially if the dragon starts reabsorbing their follicles/eggs...
 

jnwc82

Member
Original Poster
Went shopping as soon as I got off work! I went to all of the area pet stores and only was able to find the ReptiSun 10.0 T8 24" with a hood. Not my first choice but the best option I have for the moment. We have already place an order for four of the ReptiSun 10.0 T8 36" with hoods, one for each of the scale babies. Until the new lamps come in, we have a temporary rig set up in Dani's tank to keep the new light in place.

Dani seems no better and actually seems to have regressed a bit. I was informed Dani vomited earlier today and has since been shaky. We gave her medicine and offered her some baby food with calcium and she just was not interested and fought but did not try to move away. My boyfriend was able to get her to eat a small dubia but she wanted nothing else. Dani received a quick bath to wash away the baby food and had a BM. There was no form to it as it seemed to disintegrate in the water, also the urate was almost non-existent.

After a quick shower to rinse off the mess, Dani was made comfortable on her hide directly under her new UVB light. She has been under it for about two hours now and the shaking appears to be subsiding.

We are going to leave the new light on for a couple more hours before turning it off. We are hoping for a good morning. Will send an update tomorrow.
 

AHBD

BD.org Sicko
Hi there, did you mean that Dani has been laying eggs every 6-8 weeks since age 1 per the info from the previous owner ? In other words for the last 2 years before you got her ? I wonder how many months out of the year she has been doing that. That could really deplete her calcium levels and depending on how quickly the follicles are developing she may have them more often than not. Poor thing. :( Hopefully she can get through this. If she's vomited there's really something going on, hopefully not egg yolk peritonitis.
 

jnwc82

Member
Original Poster
Hi AHBD! Welcome to the conversation!

To answer your question, yes. Dani's ex-mom (?) did state Dani would lay eggs every 6 to 8 weeks. I will say that I am not sure of the accuracy of the statement but she did say it in front of her spouse who agreed with her. We adopted Dani and her sister right before Christmas and after Christmas she had a clutch.

First, we could not tell she was gravid at all as she looked thin. Second, Dani did not lay all of the eggs at one time or even in one day. Over the course of two days we would find random deformed eggs around her tank. When we found them we would put Dani in a dig box for an hour or so but to no end. Dani would just sit there and not move.

The evening of day two we found another egg and decided Dani may like the privacy of evening digging. Boy did we hit the nail on the head with that idea! I heard her scratching all night and the next morning before I left. My boyfriend stayed home with her and text me after lunch to say Dani appeared to have laid the entire clutch and they are all deflated looking. Keep in mind, Dani never stopped eating or moving around.

When she was at the vet, she was xrayed and palpatated in ways I think is only ok for a vet to do. She has had four BMs over this past week, I put all those detail in a previous post. I don't think it is egg yolk peritonitis but I am no vet. I will bring it up to the vet though.

The vomiting and twitching has me very concerned. She still has an apatite and wants her roaches but none of the food we are actually offering her. We caved and let her have a small roach earlier this evening. I did notice that she didn't make the normal belly movements she normally does after eating and I am not sure if it is because of the paralysis or that she felt she didn't eat enough to warrant it.

My boyfriend and I both have to work tomorrow but he will be coming home to check on her throughout the day. I will be calling the vet in the morning with the latest information. Oh, one thing that I forgot to mention earlier, the vet said her blood work showed no signs of infection.

Any thoughts and suggestions are always welcome!
 

EllenD

Gray-bearded Member
Okay, I have to apologize, as I did not catch what AHBD did catch, I thought that Dani had only EVER laid this one clutch of eggs, I didn't realize that she was a habitual egg-layer and that's why the previous owner said that to you. This makes things much more urgent.

The T8 UVB tubes are not the best choice for her situation at all, but they will have to do. Please make sure that you have her new T8 UVB tube mounted INSIDE the tank and UNDERNEATH the mesh lid, using either long, plastic zip/cable ties, wire, twine, etc., as it absolutely cannot sit on top of any mesh lid, and also make sure that the fixture the UVB tube is inside of does not have any type of clear, plastic cover on it's bottom that is covering the UVB tube, some do and some don't, but if your's does then you must remove it immediately, as no strength of UVB light can penetrate glass or plastic at all. Also, please make sure that her current basking spot/platform is within at least 6" of the now unobstructed UVB tube that is mounted underneath the mesh lid, so basically there should be nothing between the bare UVB tube and Dani, and she needs to be within 6" of the bare UVB tube...Also, the T8 tubes must be replaced once every 6 months on the dot, as they have a very fast UVB decay-rate, and at 6 months they stop emitting any UVB light. These details are going to be extremely important to her MBD recover. Also, does the fixture you have her new T8 UVB tube have a metal reflector with it, sitting behind the UVB tube? I hope so, if not then you need to either order a 24" clip-on reflector for it, or you can even make one out of heavy-duty aluminum foil or even a sheet of thin aluminum if you have tin-snips. Then you just place it behind the UVB tube and shape it around it. This is crucial because it's going to ensure that adequate UVB light is reflected throughout the enclosure and not only directly underneath the tube.

For future reference, the cheapest place to buy Reptisun 10.0 T5HO UVB tubes and T5-rated fixtures is by far on Amazon.com. You can buy a 22" Reptisun 10.0 T5HO UVB tube for around $24 shipped on Amazon.com, and then they also sell a 24" T5-rated tube fixture that includes a reflector inside it for about $28 shipped. And the next longer size Reptisun 10.0 T5HO tube (34") and a 36" T5 rated fixture with a reflector for them are only a couple of dollars more than the 22"/24" tubes/fixtures are...

What "medicine" did you give her after she vomited? I'm asking because right now you definitely want to limit any types of prescription medications that you give her (pain or inflammation meds are okay, I'm talking more about any types of antibiotics, antifungals, anti-parasitics, etc.) because they can be very, very hard on their kidneys. Some vets (usually "exotics" vets) are medication happy and will keep trying to medicate dragons who are already extremely sick and stressed, in fact we just had a horribly sad case of a vet poisoning a perfectly healthy dragon who just happened to come in for a wellness checkup, had a fecal test done that came back positive for low counts of both Coccidia and Pinworms (neither of which needed to be treated at all, the dragon was fine and his immune system was keeping the parasites in-check just fine), and this uneducated vet gave the dragon Ivermectin, which is almost always lethal to most all species of reptiles. This perfectly healthy dragon immediately became critically ill, and then the owner came on here for help, and we did everything we could, but this vet's answer was that it wasn't the Ivermectin that made the dragon suddenly so sick, it was the low count of Coccidia, and then this vet gave the dragon Albon for the Coccidia while the dragon was suffering from the Ivermectin poisoning (Albon itself is a Sulfa drug that is not very effective anyway and is extremely hard on their kidneys, and isn't often prescribed anymore anyway), AND also put the dragon on Cipro because his white blood cell count came back as being "high normal" and they thought he should also be on an antibiotic "just in case" he had a bacterial infection (no cultures done to confirm, and the "high-normal" white blood cell count was simply due to the stress on the dragon's body from the Ivermectin poisoning)...the dragon passed away a few days later. So this is what you definitely want to prevent from happening, although it sounds like your vet is an experienced Reptile Vet, so that's good...

I would absolutely consider getting her spayed at this point then, as the chronic egg-laying is only going to make the MBD much more difficult to recover from...Did you happen to check her for any swollen extremities, feet, toes, etc.? I'm just being very cautious due to the common occurrence of Gout in this particular situation...
 

jnwc82

Member
Original Poster
Update!!

First EllenD's questions:
There has been no swelling noted at this time. We are keeping an eye for any and all new symptoms.
The new light is currently about 8 inches from her and will be fixed when I get home. Thank you for correcting my bulb mishap, I was able to call and have them change the bulbs for the T5s before shipping.

Now, on to update!

We woke up this morning and turned on all the lights for Dani, she didn't move much in the night. Sometime between me turning her lights on then going back to give her the calcium syrup she vomited the dubia up from last night. I did not want to give her any medication until I spoke with the vet first so I called the first thing this morning and he requested she come in. My mom had to take her to the vet as I had to work. They took another xray which showed a healthy beardie and went over the kidney panel they pulled from the last visit and it showed "good function" (per mom), also there was no signs of aspirating from the vomiting.
The vet confirmed the way Dani is reacting when her stomach is touched that she is very uncomfortable and it is not just muscle twitches. Dani is not to be fed anything but baby food going forward. Doc sent her home with three new Rx, one for calming her stomach and will allow her to keep food down, an antibiotic for possible use later, and an anti-parasite for possible use later. (Later meaning after she is actually up and moving around well.) I still have to drop of a stool sample when I can get her to go outside of a bath. Once I have that, he will have a better idea of if she will even need the other two meds later. I would like to stress that the antibiotic and anti-parasitic are not being given to Dani and were only sent home with her to keep us from having keep driving back. Dropping off the stool sample will be done before office hours in their bio-dropbox. Doc was very firm about Dani walking before receiving those meds.

Vet's primary goals for Dani:
Keeping her hydrated
Keep offering mild, unobstructive food
Taking calcium syrup as prescribed
Keeping her warm and under good UVB

Still hopeful for a full recovery!
 

jnwc82

Member
Original Poster
I almost forgot her pictures!

87235-3473475464.jpg
Dani during her first visit to the vet.

87235-9146346491.jpg
Dani during today's visit.
 

jnwc82

Member
Original Poster
Just go home to see Dani. She's still down with tremors. I tried to check the temp in her tank and she attacked the probe! I have her sitting on a heating pad and have been able to get about .7 ml of baby mixed veggies into her but she doesn't want it. Gonna keep trying!

Here is the list of the med brought home from the vet's office:
Metoclopramide .05ml 2 hrs before food or other med
Panacur .2 ml once a day ×5
Albon .4 ml once a day ×4 then .4 ml once every 48 hrs until gone

The Albon and Panacur are pending a fecal or her walking, which ever comes first.
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

I am sorry Dani has had so many issues with laying too many eggs.
If she can get through all of this, I think it would be a good idea to consider getting her spayed.
It is going to end up being too much for her at some point if this continues.
The calcium level of 13 is good. They would need to do an ionized calcium test to determine the
25 hydroxy counts which is essentially the D3 storage in the bones & the body.
They can maintain a certain level of calcium in the body for awhile but will gradually become
depleted over time with egg laying.
The addition of the new UVB tube should help. Do have them mounted underneath of the screen
top for the best UVB exposure. The Solar Glos are nice lights & do provide essential heating &
UVB/UVA just not real high levels.
What is the dose of calcium she receives daily, of the liquid?
I would definitely hold off on the Albon for sure so it doesn't stress her kidneys any.
I hope she is able to hold her food down.
Let us know how she is doing.

Tracie
 

jnwc82

Member
Original Poster
Hi Tracie! Thank you for your post!

Answers to your question:
Dani take .4 ml twice daily of the liquid calcium

Regarding the ionized calcium test, is that a specialty test that I would need to request or would it be part of a panel? If part of a panel, what is the panel called? I want to make sure we get the right test.

Update time!
Dani has not vomited today and the tremors are even slacking off! Still no signs of swelling, either. We gave her the stomach medicine and 1 ml of mixed veggie baby food last night with no issues. This morning Dani had 1.5 ml of mixed veggie baby food and even took some water. We moved her hammock down the the floor of her tank and have been laying her there. We left for the grocery store and upon our return, we found her completely off the hammock and about 4 inches away. She's moving again!!

We become more hopeful with each of Dani's victories. We know Dani has a long road to full recovery but it feels like she is moving in the right direction. We appriciate all of the advice we have been given and always encourage more!
 

EllenD

Gray-bearded Member
Did this vet give you a diagnosis, or a thought as to why he thinks her stomach is upset, and why she is on only liquid foods? Obviously she is suffering from MBD, but he did not do an Ultrasound to rule-out or confirm follicles? An x-ray won't show them, and that could very well be the issue...

I want to reinforce what Tracie already said, do not dare to give her either the Panacur or the Albon unless her fecal comes back positive for either Pinworms or Coccidia AND THE COUNTS ARE IN THE HIGH RANGE! If the counts come back in the low to moderate range then they do not need to be treated at all.

I also would not give her the Albon ever, as it is a Sulfa Drug that is not typically used any more by Reptile Vets because it's extremely harsh on their kidneys, and because it is not very effective in treating Coccidia and usually requires multiple rounds. Instead, I would call the vet back and demand that he give you Toltrazuril, which is not a Sulfa Drug and is extremely effective and fast at eliminating Coccidia, and typically does not cause many side-effects at all, unlike the Albon, which actually can put them into renal failure, especially if they are already sick or stressed. That's just a no-no. We had a case a couple of weeks ago where the addition of Albon killed the dragon who was already ill, so I highly recommend not ever giving any Dragon Albon, especially when there is a much more effective and fast treatment in the Toltrazuril. And again, don't give her ANY meds unless the counts are moderate to high, as it's unnecessary. Their immune systems naturally keep parasite levels in-check, and whenever they are ill and their immune systems are weakened and stressed (AS DANI'S IS RIGHT NOW DUE TO THE MBD AND THE FOLLICLES/EGGS) then the parasite levels naturally go up, as the stressed immune system can no longer keep them in-check. Once the dragon starts to recover from whatever the illness is that is stressing their body, then the parasite levels will naturally come back down without them taking any medications. It's just a downward spiral that you don't want to go down, and giving her a Sulfa Drug is definitely not something you want to risk..
 

jnwc82

Member
Original Poster
Hi EllenD!

To answer your questions :
-The vet felt Dani vomited to purge the dubia she had eaten the previous evening and that it was possibly the dubai that made her feel ill. I was not present during the conversation so I don't have more details on it.
-Dani was not given an US during her second visit but we do have a follow up visit next week with a US scheduled.

Thank you for the advise on the Toltrazuril, if her fecal shows she needs an anti-parasitic I will make sureservations the medicine is changed!

Update:
I went to check on Dani a moment ago and found she had a little vomit in her tank. It was less than .5 ml, very little food was in it and no froth like the other times. I checked with my boyfriend who advised he did not give her the stomach medicine before feeding, that she only has the calcium which we were both in attendance for. I have an after hours number for a specialist that I am to call for emergencies. We are going to see how she does with a second feeding before we call.
 
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