Why is my bearded dragons tail black?

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Kiley

Member
So I just got my bearded dragon 2 days ago and when I got him his tail was black and I thought it was normal but now I’m wondering if something is wrong. He has not been shedding and he always tries to climb the wall of the tank so I put paper around the inside on three so he does not see his reflection. He also eats twice a day in small portions like 5 crickets but he does not eat his kale or carrots. He stares at the UVB light so I’m planning to get him a new one that is better and recommended. I think he is 1.5-2.5 months old and he is sometimes scared of my hand and moves away but not always. I gave him a bath and he loved it a lot. I think he might be stressed but I’m not sure I just don’t want him to have tail rot plz help thanks.
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Stress marks?
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EllenD

Gray-bearded Member
Hi, welcome to the forum. This is totally normal, don't worry, most dragons do have a tail that is darker towards it's end than the upper portion. Totally normal. You only need to worry if his tail turn pitch black, like black black, and this is usually accompanied by the jet black portion shriveling up and even falling off. It's also typically due to some type of open wound or a band of "retained" shed that goes all the way around the tail and is cutting off the circulation. This is what is referred to as "Tail Rot", which is nothing more than an infection that is caused by either an open wound/bite that becomes infected or the circulation being cut off and this caused the tissue below it to die and turn black (necrosis or necrotic tissue), and if it's not treated the infection will continue to travel up the tail, killing all of the healthy tissue along it's way, until it reaches the bloodstream and then causes a septic infection. Trust me, you'll know the difference if this happens, the tail literally dies. But what your dragon's tail is showing is nothing more than a darker shade towards the end of the tail than the top of the tail, which is completely normal.

I will give you a bit of advice or an FYI though: #1.) Most babies and juveniles under a year old will eat little if any greens/veggies at all, and though they should be offered fresh, healthy greens/veggies every single day just so they become used to them and will eventually start picking at them, if they do eat them you should consider it nothing more than a bonus and not a part of their daily diet at all. Bearded dragons continue to grow up until they are 2 years old, but 85% or more of their growth and development happens during their first year of life, so this is why they don't eat many if any greens/veggies when they are under a year old, and nor should you try to do anything to force them to. They need tons and tons of live insects every single day up until they are a year old because without them during their first year of life they won't grow or develop properly,. their bone density will be weak, and they will end up being stunted.

It's awesome that you give him at least 2 live insect feeding sessions a day (3 is better up to 8 months, then go down to 2 per day), but 5 small crickets isn't near what he should be eating (assuming the crickets you're feeding him are smaller than the space between his eyes, as they must be so he doesn't choke and so his body can properly digest them). Each feeding session should last between 10-15 minutes, and he should be allowed to eat as many live insects as he wants during each session. Most people using crickets throw in -3 at a time, let them eat them, then throw in another 2-3, etc., until he walk away and goes to bask or the 15 minutes is up, whichever comes first. Please never leave any crickets in his tank after he stops eating them, get them all out, as they hide under and behind things, and they are well known to bit dragons while they sleep, which can cause horrible infections and they can even bite their eyeballs. So get them out after he's done eating.

If he's only eating 5 small crickets twice a day, this is most likely due to either inadequate UVB light, or improper temperature zones, or both. What UVB light are you using, and what are his Basking Spot Surface Temperature, his Hot Side Ambient (air) Temperature, and his Cool Side Ambient (air) Temperature? This needs remedied ASAP, as he should be eating more like 20+ live size small crickets every feeding session, 2-3 times a day.
 

Kiley

Member
Original Poster
The UVB light is a coiled kind of light that came in a 20 gallon kit and I read it’s bad for them so I’m going to buy a reptisun UVB light I heard those where way better. My warm side is 100-105F where he basks at day and at night I have a red light that also came in the kit and the temp is 90-100F. The cold side is 75-82F during day and 70-75F at night. He sleeps over on the cold side idk if that matters or not. Ty
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

He sure is a little cutie!
Great that you already ordered a Reptisun 10 tube bulb. Are you going to mount it
underneath of the screen top also? It needs to be within a 6-8 inch distance for him
to have maximum exposure to the UVB.
The tails do tend to get a little dark also, right before they are going to shed. You
haven't had him for very long! I hope he is settling in well for you. That's good he is
eating though, twice a day is good. Try collard or mustard greens for a higher content
of nutrition. Kale can bind calcium absorption in him. Also, you can try butternut
squash, he might like that, too. The youngsters may or may not eat their greens!
Let us know how he is doing.

Tracie
 

EllenD

Gray-bearded Member
Mesh lids block 40% of the UVB light, and I'm sorry but did you order the compact (regular lightbulb shaped) Reptisun 10.0 UVB bulb? If so, it's totally inadequate, it must be at the very least the 18" long Reptisun 10.0 T8 UVB tube, as well as a matching length fixture, but even the T8 strength UVB tube must absolutely be mounted underneath the mesh lid by using long zip ties and poking holes in the mesh, and then the basking spot must be within at least 6" of the unobstructed UVB tube. The T8 tube must be replaced once every 6 months. You're actually much better off with the 22" Reptisun 10.0 T5HO UVB tube and a matching fixture, it can sit on top of the mesh lid, but must be at least within 11" of his basking spot, and replaced once every 12 months. Either way you cannot use the compact or coil Reptisun 10.0 UVB bulb, or any other compact or coil UVB bulb, he will end up stunted and with MBD, even if you didn't have it on top of the mesh lid...The mesh will only make it worse.

Amazon.com is the best place to order a long Reptisun 10.0 UVB tube and then a matching length tube fixture. Please do this ASAP, he needs it quickly... Hopefully you haven't yet ordered the Reptisun 10.0 compact/coil UVB bulb, or you can return it.
 
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