Atadenovirus/Adenovirus?

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Atadenovirus/Adenovirus?

Postby Heptane » Sun May 13, 2012 9:31 pm

[TOPIC AUTO-LOCKED DUE TO INACTIVITY]

How old is your dragon? 4-6 weeks

How long have you had your dragon? Since May 12, 2012

How long is your dragon? About 4.5"

What is the sex of your dragon? Unknown

What size enclosure do you have your dragon in? 30L

What type substrate do you have on the bottom of your tank? Repti Carpet

Do you use UVB lights? Yes

If so, Is it a coil, compact, fluorescent tube, or Mercury Vapor bulb? Tube

What is the brand name and number of your bulb? Wattage (if MVB)? 24" Reptisun 10.0 18W T-8

How old is your UVB bulb? 1 Day

How close can your dragon get to the UVB? 8"

Do you use a separate basking bulb? What kind and what is the wattage? Is it a white or colored bulb? 100W Basking Spot Lamp and 100W Nocturnal IR Heat Lamp

What are the basking temps? Basking Temp is between 89.6F - 130.0F (See 'Where Are You Taking Basking Temps' below)

What is the cool side temp? Warm side of the tank is between 88F - 104F. Hotter near the heat lamp of course. Cool side of the tank is between 74.0F - 82.7F. Coldest at the edge of the tank.

Do you take the temps with a stick on thermometer, a digital thermometer with a wire and a probe end or a temp gun? CenTech IR/Laser Temp Gun

Where exactly are you taking your basking temps? A log that starts at the bottom of the tank and slowly climbs up towards the top. It is centered under the heat lamp. He seems to favor the middle/bottom of the log, which ranges from 89.6F - 112.0F.

Do you use a heat rock or heat pad? No

What do you feed your dragon? Please be specific. He hasn't eaten yet, but baby feeder crickets, finely chopped greens, finely chopped carrots, ZooMed Natural Juvenile Bearded Dragon Food

How often do you feed and what time do you feed (morning, afternoon, night)? 8A (vegs), 10A (crickets), 2P (crickets), 8P (crickets)

Do you gutload (feed) your crickets, worms, etc? Yes

Do you use vitamin or calcium supplements? What brand(s)? How many days a week do you use each of them? ZooMed ReptiCalcium Without D3. Daily.

Is your dragon having regular bowel movements (poops)? Yes

Do you bath your dragon? How often? 2-3x/week (Planning)

Do you mist your dragon or offer water other than in the bath? Yes, mist 1x/day (Planning)

Have you gotten a vet check and fecal done? No

Does your dragon share an enclosure with another dragon? No

******************************************************************************************************************

This is our first experience with reptiles, so we are doing a lot of research online and learning as we go. However it's hard knowing what is true, what is conjecture, and what is just garbage when there are so many different opinions out there! So please bear with me if these are all old questions, I just haven't found definitive answers yet...

Since we brought him home from the store on May 12, he hasn't had a single thing to eat. I've heard it takes anywhere from 2-3 days to 2 weeks for the beardies to get their appetites back. At what point should I start to worry for his health?

He has also been increasingly sluggish since we brought him home. He was initially alert, at least keeping his eyes open and milling around a little, but seems to have fallen into a coma. He wouldn't open his eyes this morning, and looked rather limp just laying on his basking log. He had been under a ReptiSun 5.0 Compact yesterday afternoon, at least until I replaced it with the ReptiSun 10.0 Tube today. However, his demeanor hasn't improved. Could just one day without proper UVB would have such an effect?

UVB issues aside, I also wanted to make sure he was at least pooping. He had supposedly eaten a few crickets before/while we brought him home, but we hadn't seen any bowel movements yesterday. I read that warm baths coax baby beardies to go, so I prepared a little bath of 100F water. Had his limbs not tensed slightly when I picked him up out of the tank amd when I put him back into it, I would have thought he was dead. However, when I was putting him back in the tank a little drop of water fell on his head and rolled down over his mouth. We noticed he started doing something that looked like he was drinking it. So, we put another drop of water on his mouth and he kept drinking. Much to our relief, after a minute of this the little guy sprang to life!

His eyes opened fully, he even crawled right onto my hand (I think for warmth) and didn't want to get back onto his basking log. We kept giving him little drops of water on his nose until he stopped drinking. He wandered around the tank for a minute, and had several bowel movements (white milky substance, looked kind of watery but no smell). Then he climbed up on his basking log and slid right back into that coma state again. I want to say not exactly as bad tho, since he would briefly open his eyes if I walked by or made a sound. Could this be some type of dehydration issue?

So the next step was to make sure all of his temp settings were looking good, I read that a lot of this sluggishness can be caused from improper temperatures. Yesterday wasn't a good day for him because we were just using the stick-on cheap temp strip that came with the kit. We really have no idea how hot or cold it got in his tank. I spent the majority of this evening trying to get the temps in his home within range. The problem is I've read about 4 different acceptable heat ranges for baby beardies, so please let me know if the temps I posted at the beginning, or if they need to be changed, and how to best do that.

The last question (thank you if you're still reading this) is I've read that the Nocturnal Heat Lamps aren't good for beardies because they can still see in that spectrum, and it's best to just use electric pads under the tank or ceramic heaters up near the lamps if your home gets below 70F at night. We live in CO so that's pretty much guaranteed for 10 months out of the year. Is he going to go bonkers if we keep using the red nocturnal heat lamp at night, or should we switch to a non-light type of night heater?

Thank you again very very much for reading all of this. Chances are we're just overly worried, and this may all go away when he finally de-stresses from the move, but since this is our first time at this we can't be too careful!

Pic is blurry, just a visual for all of this. The top screen is off in the day time for better UVB:
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B-x8jru6NXzAX3Y2VzVNdlJzdGc

Here's how he looks most of the time :-( He is near the bottom of his basking log in the pic. To the right in the pic you'll see the milky white discharge he made after the bath/drinking some water:
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B-x8jru6NXzAa21MSkloNXE1TGM
Last edited by Heptane on Tue May 29, 2012 8:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1st Time Owner, 2nd Day - Questions

Postby kcarello » Mon May 14, 2012 6:50 am

You need to get your temps down immediatly!! 130 is cooking your baby!! He is dehydrated, that is why he is licking up the water. You do this by getting a lower wattage basking bulb. The good news is that you can use a regular bright white household light bulb. If you are using a 110 watt now, try a 75 watt, Get your baby in the bath to help get him hydrated. THe very HOTTEST his basking spot temp should be 110...NO MORE THAN THAT. The hot side can be 85 - 90 degrees and the cool side should be 76 - 85. The hot side and cool side temps can be within a couple degrees and still be ok. But I can tell you your baby is entirely too hot right now.
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Re: 1st Time Owner, 2nd Day - Questions

Postby kcarello » Mon May 14, 2012 7:00 am

Now for the rest, just wanted to get that on there quick so you will get the temps lowered and get your baby in the bath. You only need night time heat if the room where you keep your baby gets below 65* at night. If it does, then you need to get a ceramic heat emmiter, puts off heat but no light. Dragons need complete darkness to sleep, any light will disturb them and they won't get proper rest. You can use a medicine dropper or a needless syringe to drop water on his nose so it will run down and he can drink it up, like he has been. You still need to put him in a bath, they absorb water through their waste vent also. You need to dust his crickets with calcium one feeding a day 5 days a week and with vitamins 1 feeding a day 2 days a week. Also, make sure everything you feed your dragon is no bigger than the space between his eyes, that includes crickets, salad and veggie pieces. Beautifuldragons.com has a wonderful food list for dragons that most here use and go by.
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Re: 1st Time Owner, 2nd Day - Questions

Postby kcarello » Mon May 14, 2012 7:25 pm

Just wondering how your baby is doing? Any improvement?
Kelly
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Re: 1st Time Owner, 2nd Day - Questions

Postby Heptane » Wed May 16, 2012 8:26 am

Hi Kelly! Thank you for checking back in, and sorry it's taken me a bit to reply. Unfortunately, the baby died about 5 minutes before you posted your original responses :cry: However, I moved the ceramic heat dome up another 8" from the screen, swapped the 100W basking lamp with a 75W, and replaced the red IR light with a 60W CHE. The changes have dropped the temps so that no single part of the basking surface is over 110F. Most of the basking surface is now in the 90F - 105F range, with the higher parts in the 105F - 110F range. It's difficult to get the entire surface uniformly heated to 105F-110F since the log is at an upward climbing angle.

On Monday after all the changes were made and the temps stabilized, we went and picked up another little baby. What's odd is that the difference in temperament is night and day between the two. Even when we were at the store just watching/examining this new little guy, the differences were quite stark. He is alert, playful, inquisitive, highly responsive to movement and sound, and has an appetite - not much of one yet, just a few crickets here and there and a few bites of greens, but I think that's doing quite well considering he's still adjusting. We're starting to wonder if the first baby was sickly to begin with, comparing the behavior differences even before they were moved into the tank. Who knows... :(

Either way, this baby is now seemingly happy and adjusting to his new home quickly. I think he's going to start shedding soon, as he loves getting misted and starts rubbing his head on the basking log when he's a little damp. He also does a funny little stand-against-the-glass dance when he's wondering around the tank, and tries to jump into the forest background all the time. I haven't read that these are alarming behaviors, so I'll just keep letting him do his thing. I'm going to be setting up an appt with a reptile vet to get a fecal check done as well - we're a little paranoid after the first disaster and want to cover all of our bases.

So, long story short, your advice to lower the temps seems to have done the trick. I'm still a little peeved that something like this could happen even after doing so much research, simply because there are SO many opinions out there (some of which probably cooked our first little guy) and none of it is regulated! Even pet stores all have differing opinions and advice (we threw away the mealworms the guy at Petsmart told us to feed babies, as an example). I'll get off my soapbox now...

Also, I know this is off-topic, but have you had any experience with dubia roaches? I've read that they are more nutritious than crickets, don't jump, don't climb, don't make noise, and are easy as pie to make a colony with - saving tons of $$$ in the longrun. Yes/No?
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Re: 1st Time Owner, 2nd Day - Questions

Postby kcarello » Wed May 16, 2012 10:18 am

Sorry to hear about your first little one. It will be hard to tell if he was sick or just got too hot...either way you should not blame yourself. There is so much of the wrong information out there. Whats important is that you have found the right place to get all the correct information now! :lol:
What are you temps on the hot side and cool side?
You should be letting your little one eat as many crickets he wants in a 10 - 15 minute period,,,which can be ALOT. Do you feed him his crickets in his cage or do you have a feeder tank/bin? Thats great that he is eating his greens too.
I thnk that anyone who sells dragons should be required to make the buyer sign up to this web site!!!!
Again, sorry about your first little one, Now lets get everything right for your new little baby!!
Kelly
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Re: 1st Time Owner, 2nd Day - Questions

Postby Heptane » Mon May 28, 2012 7:52 am

So sorry about the delayed response! I recently landed a new job ( :blob5: ) so I've been really busy trying to get things squared away - although things seem to be settling down finally. It's all about finding your rhythm, right? Anyways onto the beardie news...

kcarello wrote:Sorry to hear about your first little one. It will be hard to tell if he was sick or just got too hot...either way you should not blame yourself. There is so much of the wrong information out there. Whats important is that you have found the right place to get all the correct information now! :lol:

What's scary is just how MUCH wrong information is out there. I've been doing a lot of reading these past few weeks (very paranoid after the first one died), it's just scary what some people offer as advice... one of the worst I saw was a post encouraging a new beardie owner to feed their baby avocado! :angry5: So yeah, this website is fantastic, lots of great info (and people) to help us noobs out.

kcarello wrote:What are you temps on the hot side and cool side?

Temps on the hot side are mid-80s to low-90s, and temps on the cool side are mid-70s to mid-80s, depending on the weather... we have to keep our windows open in the apartment, no AC and summer temps means it's pretty much required. His basking log runs a huge range because of its shape, from low 90s at the bottom of the log to 110s at the top where it's closer to the heat lamp. Oddly enough, he avoids areas of his tank with higher surface temps. He always basks where the temps are mid or high 90s, and usually stays away from areas hotter than 100-103F. Weird little guy.

kcarello wrote: You should be letting your little one eat as many crickets he wants in a 10 - 15 minute period,,,which can be ALOT. Do you feed him his crickets in his cage or do you have a feeder tank/bin? Thats great that he is eating his greens too.

When he WAS eating, he would chase down 3-5 pinhead crickets in his tank per feeding. I tried picking him up about a week ago to put him into a feeder tank and it seemed to stress him out - he refused to eat - so we've been dropping them in a few at a time into his tank and he was perfectly happy to hunt them all down!

However, he hasn't eaten a thing in 4 days now. He ignores anything we put in his cage - alive, greens, etc, he just doesn't seem to care. He also just lays around most of the day with his eyes closed. He is still semi-responsive, he halfway opens his eyes if we talk to him, he tilts his head and sits up towards the basking light sometimes, "stress" lines come and go, he seems to be breathing at a good pace, etc, but by and large he just lays somewhere on his basking log like a paperweight.

He still isn't ready to be picked up again for a bath, even in this sluggish condition he turns into the Road Runner when I try to put my fingers under his chest, so instead I've been misting him really well 3x a day with warm water. Almost every time he seems to really enjoy it, sitting up to get in the mist, drinking, etc. I've been spraying him until he's done drinking, until he puts his head down, or until he makes some gesture that he's done. Humidity levels in the tank spike up to 40 or 50% but drop down to 0-10% within 60 minutes, so I doubt I'm putting him in danger by spraying him in the tank.

He is still passing urate (no feces tho) once or twice a day, just tiny little ones on his basking spot - they are watery looking (of course) and yellowish/slightly brown which may mean a number of things from what I've read in another post (This one, from this very forum, actually: http://www.beardeddragon.org/forums/viewtopic.php?p=953138)

He had been rubbing his head/body on rough surfaces for the first week, so I'm hoping this just has something to do with shedding. I don't see any skin starting to flake or peel, but it's the only explanation I can come up with. If he still hasn't eaten anything by this Thurs or Fri he's going to the vet for a checkup tho!

kcarello wrote: I thnk that anyone who sells dragons should be required to make the buyer sign up to this web site!!!!
Again, sorry about your first little one, Now lets get everything right for your new little baby!!
Kelly

Totally agree, it's still scary to think of how much mis-information people are receiving. Not with bad intentions or anything of course, but hey at least there's places like this that offer *good* advice :)

Oh, on a related note, my dubia roach colony seems to be off to a good start! I bought 50 mixed from an out of state breeder. I picked up a sterilite container from Walmart, cut out a square from the lid and hot glued some aluminum screening in place. Dropped a 75W black light heating bulb on an adjustable ceramic dome to keep them between 85 - 95F. Dropped in a few egg crates, give them the greens our baby doesn't eat every day, and keep them stocked with water gel. They're quiet, they don't stink, they don't climb, they don't bite, they're clean, and in a few months I'll have a renewable source of food for him (provided he makes it that long :cry: )
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Re: 1st Time Owner, 2nd Day - Questions

Postby kcarello » Tue May 29, 2012 6:53 am

Congratulations on your new job!!!!! What a relief that must be!!!! :blob5:
It sounds like you are doing everything right,,,so if I were you I would get a fecal test done on your baby. Parasites or such could explain his lack of energy and its always a good ideal to have your baby checked out after you get him. It really sounds like his set up is close to perfect. Have you found a reptile vet in your area?
There is a link on here somewhere to help you find one. I just googled ones in my area and found some. Good luck and please keep me updated.
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Re: 1st Time Owner, 2nd Day - Questions

Postby Heptane » Tue May 29, 2012 2:55 pm

Thank you, it's been rough out in the world without income!! There is a local vet here in town (Dublin Animal Hospital in Colorado Springs, CO) with a few docs having 8+ years of exotic reptile experience on staff. I used them when I had birds/rabbits/etc and they were wonderful, so I'm going to trust them with my lil baby beardie too... well maybe, read on...

... so I came home today and my poor little guy was laying at the coolest spot in the tank. He looked like a little shriveled ball of scales as he's lost a LOT of weight since he stopped eating - not a good sign at all. I misted him and he perked up to the point where I was able to give him a water/pedialyte bath (3:1 ratio).

When I dried him off and put him back in his basking spot, he started doing the classic "stargazing" pose with his head and tail that's associated with Atadenovirus. Compare the included pic with the one in the article I read here: http://www.azeah.com/Care-Sheets.asp?id=232 to see if I'm crazy or not. Either way, after he warmed up enough and stopped the "stargazing" deal, he hopped back onto his carpet and has been laying there quite sickly looking ever since. My theory, if he does in fact have this virus, is that he got it from the previous sickly beardie that I had in the tank. Ignorant to the fact that dragons can spread diseases to one another, I didn't disinfect the tank well enough prior to bringing him home, and bingo bango... here we are.

So I called several vets to see if they would be able to take a look at him prior to Friday (when I get my first paycheck) and NONE of them will bill for services rendered, it's all got to be paid for up-front. The receptionist at Dublin Animal Hospital was really upset when I told her that he would be lucky to make it till then, but she said they've been burned enough times that it's a non-negotiable policy. So all that's left to do is hope he's strong enough to survive until then, although I'm not expecting to give any good news as time passes... :cry:


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Re: 1st Time Owner, 2nd Day - Questions

Postby Heptane » Tue May 29, 2012 4:28 pm

I was actually able to talk to a reptile vet at Dublin Animal Hospital. She was moved by my conversation w/the receptionist, so she gave me a call back! :o

I sent her pics of my baby and explained the symptoms, when it all began, etc... she said that she wouldn't be able to tell for certain without seeing him, but it does sound like he is manifesting symptoms of Atadenovirus. She said that it is actually quite a common occurrance for bearded dragons that are bred in captivity to become infected, or to be born infected. The virus can live on surfaces that a sick dragon has come into contact with for days, infecting other dragons just by simple contact with that surface - fecal matter does not have to be present for it to spread either. As mentioned, she said it can also be spread to the clutch of a mother dragon that has the virus.

She said it's so hard to diagnose because the symptoms vary wildly from reptile to reptile - some just lose their appetite, some become infected with parasites, others twitch their heads or tails, some look like they're trying to brumate out of season, some stargaze. She rattled off a pretty long list of symptoms, most of which mimic other virus/diseases exactly, which makes it really hard to diagnose. And the icing on the cake: some beardies can carry this virus their entire lives and never manifest any symptoms or suffer any health issues. However, because they seem healthy, they are bred or allowed to come into contact with other reptiles, who catch it and pass it on. Rinse and repeat ad nauseum.

She wrapped up by telling me there isn't an effective vaccine or treatment for reptile Atadenovirus, that they could try and treat his other symptoms with medicines - injections, anti-parasitical drugs, etc etc etc - but that there isn't really anything they can do besides hope the virus goes into a dormant state and that it doesn't spike again in the future. She ended the call by very gently suggesting that perhaps the best course of action for my little guy is to euthanize him, as it's apparently a fairly degenerative disease once it spikes, and can really make the animal suffer... scary, scary stuff. So I have a lot to think about, I just wanted to give an update. :cry:
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Re: 1st Time Owner, 2nd Day - Questions

Postby kcarello » Tue May 29, 2012 6:57 pm

Oh No!!!! I am so sorry!! You need to pm Drache613, she is a moderator on here and works on researching the adenovirus. Her real name is Tracie and she is extremely knowledgeable about all things dragon. She may be able to help you out, I gurantee she will, in some way. She has become my go to person for any questions. She has her own website, bugs-d-lite.
I truly hope your little one gets better. Maybe you should up his temps up to about 80 tonight, if you can. Please keep my posted on your baby, I will keep him in my prayers.
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Re: Atadenovirus/Adenovirus?

Postby XtinaBeardieMom » Sun Jun 03, 2012 2:12 pm

Hi there, any updates on your little guy? Don't beat yourself up for not sanitizing the tank thoroughly enough between dragons - it's not unlikely that every baby dragon from that pet shop was/is infected with Adenovirus if that's the case. Tracie (Drache613 as mentioned above) can send off a fecal swab sample to a lab in order to test for Adenovirus for you, if you want to be sure - only $18. The pet store you purchased these beardies from should also be informed if he tests positive. If you plan on getting another beardie, I would suggest acquiring it elsewhere... which doesn't necessarily guarantee Adenovirus-free beardies, but if you get it from the same pet store it's almost a sure thing he'll be infected. If you lose this baby, it would honestly be best to get a whole new set-up as it's very difficult to kill Adenovirus. If you insist on using the same set-up then sanitize accordingly:

1. Sanitize rocks by boiling for at least 30 minutes. Spray with 10% ammonia/water solution and allow to dry
2. Sanitize wood by baking in a 275 degree F oven for 1-2 hours. Then soak it immersed in ammonia solution (you could use bathtub) for 30mins-1hr. Allow to dry
3. Immerse all other materials/furniture/bowls in ammonia solution for 30mins-1hr and allow to dry.
4. Wash and scrub tank with hot soapy water, remove all debris. Spray down inside and outside of tank with ammonia solution. Let it sit for 30 mins, then come back to give it a fresh spray of ammonia solution and wipe it all down with clean paper towels, allow to dry.
5. Now go over every single thing (rocks, wood, bowls, furniture, tank, etc.) with a steam cleaner at least 3 times.
6. Set everything aside and wait 3-6 months
7. Repeat entire process except waiting again before bringing into contact with another beardie

I know that all sounds very tedious and excessive. I've done the first round (without the waiting) twice before when cleaning out newly purchased set-ups for my girls. You can never be too careful, and Adenovirus is nothing to mess around with. I still wouldn't put my dragons in a habitat known to have been infected with Adenovirus, but if you can't afford another set-up then it's a personal decision you're free to make of course. I wish the very best of luck to you and your dragon. Let us know how you're both doing : )
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Re: Atadenovirus/Adenovirus?

Postby Heptane » Tue Jun 05, 2012 8:23 am

Unfortunately, the little guy passed away on Friday, 01 June. He had a pretty wicked seizure while I was giving him a bath and subsequently passed a few moments after I lifted him out of the water. I wasn't holding out much hope as his condition continued to deteriorate, but I was glad he didn't die alone. It was a really ambivalent day, I was sad but relieved because I knew he was suffering. RIP little buddy :cry:

Over the weekend I talked with the vet about how to sterilize a viv after adenovirus strikes, she said 2 different studies have been released that suggest reptile adenovirus can only live on a clean surface for 7 - 10 days, but on porous materials and surfaces with biological matter it can live upwards of 20 days. With both studies, a 10/90% bleach/water mixture in contact with a clean non-porous surface for 15-20 minutes effectively kills the virus. She's had other people follow these sterilizing steps after an adenovirus death, and the new dragon (living in the same viv) tested negative over the course of several months.

So I threw away everything in the tank and bought new stuff (expensive but I didn't want to take the chance since most of it was porous material) then bleached the eff out of everything with the 10% bleach solution. I know chemistry and math are generally pretty finite things, but I bleached/rinsed/dried twice just for peace of mind.

We'll see how this next round goes - we're planning on buying one that's a little older/more established, at the very least a juvenile dragon instead of one that's just a few weeks old, and I'm taking him/her to the vet immediately for tests... but on a side note, it's pretty frustrating to think about how many hundreds (maybe thousands) of people decide to get a reptile, jam down to the local petstore without doing their research, and pick up a 10G fish tank, a 100W non-uvb basking lamp, some sand, and some meal worms, and their dragon(s) manage to at least stay alive for some length of time. I feel like I'm inviting these little guys into House of 1,000 Corpses or something with as many deaths as there has been! Very frustrating.
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Re: Atadenovirus/Adenovirus?

Postby XtinaBeardieMom » Tue Jun 05, 2012 2:40 pm

I'm so sorry for your loss :( Trust me, while a lot of people seem to get away with improper husbandry and feeding, that only lasts for so long before the owners end up here begging desperately for help because their 2-3 year old dragon has MBD, is impacted, riddled with parasites, etc. At least you know that when you bring home a healthy dragon, he will likely stay that way this time!
Heptane wrote:Over the weekend I talked with the vet about how to sterilize a viv after adenovirus strikes, she said 2 different studies have been released that suggest reptile adenovirus can only live on a clean surface for 7 - 10 days, but on porous materials and surfaces with biological matter it can live upwards of 20 days. With both studies, a 10/90% bleach/water mixture in contact with a clean non-porous surface for 15-20 minutes effectively kills the virus. She's had other people follow these sterilizing steps after an adenovirus death, and the new dragon (living in the same viv) tested negative over the course of several months.

So I threw away everything in the tank and bought new stuff (expensive bYut I didn't want to take the chance since most of it was porous material) then bleached the eff out of everything with the 10% bleach solution. I know chemistry and math are generally pretty finite things, but I bleached/rinsed/dried twice just for peace of mind.


Oh wow, that certainly sounds much easier than my way. I would love a reference to those studies that your vet mentioned. Last I checked, I couldn't find near that much research on the sanitation process. I could've sworn that bleach couldn't kill Adenovirus, but I could always be wrong. However I've been very interested in finding out more about it lately (check out one of my threads mentioning Adenovirus here >>> viewtopic.php?f=6&t=170768) and I know that Tracie (Drache613) conducts a good bit of research on it too. So if you come across any useful info like the articles your veg mentioned, please do share! I wish you all the luck in the world with your future beardie... I'm sure he/she will have a great loving home! Don't hesitate to ask if there's anything we can help with :D
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Re: Atadenovirus/Adenovirus?

Postby Heptane » Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:42 am

Hey guys, just wanted to drop in an update. We did end up purchasing a 3 month juvenile citrus beardie a few days after my last post, and she is thankfully doing great :blob5: - a HUGE change over the problems we've had with baby beardies. Her appetite seems to increase as the days go by - she ate 5-10 crickets a day when we first brought her home, now she's up to 20-40 a day! She still doesn't eat much of her greens, but what she doesn't eat goes straight to the dubia colony, so it's no big deal. She's still very skittish when we put a hand in the tank (which may be due to the full body shed she is just finishing) but we're being patient with her and going slow with it. We're still trying to get a *fresh* fecal sample to the vet for tests - she doesn't have a movement for 3-5 days at a time, and it's of course when we're at work, or on a Sunday when the vet is closed... she does this on purpose, I know it! Either way the vet said she looks very vibrant and healthy, and our husbandry seems right on. :D She also said that next time I'm in she'll give me the info/links on the studies she was quoting from. Will update when we get fecal and virus results.
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