Is my beardie okay?

So I got my beardie a couple weeks ago, and this is all the stuff about him, I know I may not be doing very good, and I would do anything I possibly can to make him happy, which he seems like he is most the time. Here's about him.

My baby Beardie, Mango, is always shutting one of his eyes. He will open it sometimes, it looks okay when he opens it, it may be a little watery but he doesnt open it up long enough for me to see. He is 3 or 4 months old, and I got him from petsmart, because he looked like the healthiest one, and a fell in love with him. Not quite sure of the gender, but I say he. Maybe I'm being paranoid beause I took him out to look at him and after a couple minutes he is sitting on me with both his eyes open and it looks fine!

I took Mango out to play, and after he ran around for a while, he did this weird wiggle thing, while laying down, now is just laying on me, eyes open, breathing, head down, is he okay? This is the first time I saw this.

Sometimes a reach into his cage too fast and he opens his mouth I think he is hissing, then he is fine.

He was trying to eat the hair on the back of my neck the other day ( I have short hair )

Mango is living in a 10 gallon tank, and when he gets bigger he will get a 40 gallon or more tank, maybe even his own room/closet. I made him his own blankets and pillows I put in his cage at night and he sleeps on it.
He basks on a bunch of sticks I sterilized and hot glued together, and it's worth mentioning when he is basking he gets stress marks, and turns a darker color, but he turns bright and colorful when he eats, is getting a bath, or running around.
He has a 5.0 UVB Reptisun bulb, when I got the bulb I thought I was getting it for an anole I caught, but he sadly died, so I got a beardie instead. I will replace it in 3 months when I have the money, with a 10.0 bulb. And his 75 watt red heat bulb broke, his lamp fell, so now he is using one of those old 100 watt house bulbs that was banned because they were too hot, my grandma had a bunch, so it seemed convenient. I'm not quite sure of the heat in his tank, but I am getting a thermometer soon. If he seems too cold I turnup the heat in the house, too hot, I turn down the heat, I watch him 24'7. His basking spot is 2-4 inches away from the lights. I turn off the lights at night, and he sleeps peacefully.
For substrate he has tolit paper, and not sand.
He eats dried mealworms and fluckers gourmet mealworms, along with radish greens, the nearest petstore is an hour or more away, so having live food isn't really an option, I didn't realize they ate so much, plush my grandma doesnt want live bugs in her house. Another problem, I don't think he is eating enough, but he'll eat if I put him near his dish, or when he just gets hungry and stops basking for some food. I pile food in his dish, and let him eat as much as he wants. But the pile is never gone before bed so I dont know if he eats enough. he also prefers his food without calcium powder, so every day with ever single piece of food I put calcium powder just on the bottom so he cant see it. Whenever his food gets low I refill it, I don't want him to starve.
He gets one to two baths a day so he can stay hydrated after I took the water dish out because the humidity was getting too high, I dry him off well after every bath. He has little wrinkles when he turns his body, but when I "pinch them" they go back down right away, so not dehydrated I don't think.
He poops normally two to three poops a day, everything seems normal there.
He is full of energy and gets let out to run around in a beardie proof room.

It is worth mentioning I just moved from Alaska to Florida, and we don't have our own house yet, so I keep moving between my granparents house and my great grandmas house every couple weeks, but Mango seems to like car rides, and ajusts well after I put him back in his tank. But I really wanted this dragon to help with my depression, and it is working, I love him so much.
As I already stated when my mom and dad get our own house soon, he will be very spoiled with his own big tank, or room. Plus a lot of other things, like his own matress with a quilt I am working on right now, and some soft fluffy pillows, and tons of every food a beardie could want. I love him so much.

As I finish this post, Mango is sleeping on me, being the sweetest baby ever, I love him.
I will post pictures when I can.

Well, to start off, i recommend ditching mealworms. Even if you can't feed live, crickets chitin is easily digested when put in comparison to that of a mealworms so go with grasshoppers or crickets like the flukers ones in the cans. Also, if the people in your living space doesn't like the idea or creepy crawlers jumping around, try Phoenix/reptiworms as they can also be staple Feeders except they require no feeding or care and don't move unless put in heat(like in a food bowl in your beardies tank, they will wiggle a lot then and you're beardy will probably eat them) ;just throw them in a wine cooler/fridge, cold area of your house, or maybe even the butter shelf in the fridge(though I'm not sure if that will actually work, just the other ones are for sure effective). Reptiworms and Phoenix worms don't require dusting and can be easily shipped to your door. Plus, the flies they have the potential to become actually far cleaner than house flies as they don't have operational mouthparts and do little more than breed and die(they don't carry pathogens and their goal is just to breed. Though they are hard to breed at home and if they become flies their edible too) Lastly about BSFL, the darker ones are soon to be flies and contain more calcium and brands like calci worm can't be used as staples a since the diet that the company feeds them makes their calcium content too high for regular consumption for a healthy beardy, stick with repti and Phoenix worms as those are the only ones I'm sure can be used as staple BSFL. Also, try getting a 12 dollar temp gun instead of the pet stoare kind as the pet store kind can be off by as much as 20%(analog thermometers). Too hot is bad but so is too cool. Also, if accessible, try giving carrots, collards, turnip, mustard, dandelion, or kale in the salads as they are the best for your beardy. Try misting veggies/Feeders(unless you use Phoenix or repti worms) instead of bathes everyday. You only need to bathe a couple times every week or on a bi weekly basis, unless theyre shedding of course. Compact bulbs tend to cause irritation to the eye. I also use an Exo Terra compact 10.0 uvb as I only trust them for compacts as they have made serious improvements to their compacts, far more than others have. If your beardy develops further problems, switch to a tube. Give him ahold multivitamin too like herptivite(the best one available as it contains retinal and beta carotene instead of synthetic vitamin A). Ditch red bulbs and go for normal basking bulbs.

I'm here if you have any more problems.

-Blu

KeyBlu422":k4jon514 said:

Well, to start off, i recommend ditching mealworms. Even if you can't feed live, crickets chitin is easily digested when put in comparison to that of a mealworms so go with grasshoppers or crickets like the flukers ones in the cans. Also, if the people in your living space doesn't like the idea or creepy crawlers jumping around, try Phoenix/reptiworms as they can also be staple Feeders except they require no feeding or care and don't move unless put in heat(like in a food bowl in your beardies tank, they will wiggle a lot then and you're beardy will probably eat them) ;just throw them in a wine cooler/fridge, cold area of your house, or maybe even the butter shelf in the fridge(though I'm not sure if that will actually work, just the other ones are for sure effective). Reptiworms and Phoenix worms don't require dusting and can be easily shipped to your door. Plus, the flies they have the potential to become actually far cleaner than house flies as they don't have operational mouthparts and do little more than breed and die(they don't carry pathogens and their goal is just to breed. Though they are hard to breed at home and if they become flies their edible too) Lastly about BSFL, the darker ones are soon to be flies and contain more calcium and brands like calci worm can't be used as staples a since the diet that the company feeds them makes their calcium content too high for regular consumption for a healthy beardy, stick with repti and Phoenix worms as those are the only ones I'm sure can be used as staple BSFL. Also, try getting a 12 dollar temp gun instead of the pet stoare kind as the pet store kind can be off by as much as 20%(analog thermometers). Too hot is bad but so is too cool. Also, if accessible, try giving carrots, collards, turnip, mustard, dandelion, or kale in the salads as they are the best for your beardy. Try misting veggies/Feeders(unless you use Phoenix or repti worms) instead of bathes everyday. You only need to bathe a couple times every week or on a bi weekly basis, unless theyre shedding of course. Compact bulbs tend to cause irritation to the eye. I also use an Exo Terra compact 10.0 uvb as I only trust them for compacts as they have made serious improvements to their compacts, far more than others have. If your beardy develops further problems, switch to a tube. Give him ahold multivitamin too like herptivite(the best one available as it contains retinal and beta carotene instead of synthetic vitamin A). Ditch red bulbs and go for normal basking bulbs.

I'm here if you have any more problems.

-Blu

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Well he does really enjoy the flucker's crickets, I already promised myself I'd never buy mealworms again because he didn't really like them, I think he likes how they are wormy looking and he wants worms. But then he eats them, and I think he gets disapointed, and eats his crickets. Does that mean he is smart and knows mealworms aren't as good for him? Just because my friend only feeds hers mealworms and lettuce, and is just fine, I figured it would be okay as a snack in his pile of crickets, guess not.
When my family gets our own house, these worms sound like a good option. However, can I get them at a store instead of ordering them? Is there any bugs I can get anywhere that can fatten mango up? I am worried about him being too thin, even though he looks fine, I'm still worried.
Where can I get a temp gun? And what is the next best option if I can't get one?
He is shedding, he just shed his tail, and his face, I assume the rest is coming soon. Won't misting his food raise the humidity? I already have a problem with the humidity in his tank, I have to watch it or else it'll get to 60 or to 70.
I watch him to see for more problems with the UVB light, it's just what my mom got me for Christmas when I asked for a UV light and a lamp. When I got him I thought it would be warm enough at the house, but then when I was getting him, some guy was getting stuff in the beardie section, so we talked for a while, and recomended I got the red light for night if it got too cold, because that is what he used for his snakes, I ended up using it only in the daytime, until I broke it, I will try to get him a basking bulb soon, rn he just has a 100watt house bulb and seems okay until I can get one.

Thanks for the help!

Are you able to order supplies online? If the pet store is that far away (and even if it was closer) you will get the best deals online and there is a wider variety available in terms of equipment and food. A 10g tank is really too small to create a healthy heat and light gradient. Even if you can upgrade to a 20g long in the short term it would be helpful (40g breeder would be better). The 5.0 bulb you have now really isn't sufficient for a dragon and I recommend upgrading that to a 26w higher output bulb. Try the 26w Exo Terra UVB200 which should screw into the current fixture and should provide adequate UVB in that smaller tank. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B4ZRXSW/

The basking light really comes down to bright white light and heat so if the current bulb is producing surface temps at around 100-110 in the basking area and 80 or so on the other side then it is OK. You just need accurate readings of the surface temps. An IR temp gun like this https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Temperature-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B00CVHIJDK or a couple of digital thermometers with probes (one for each side) like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017N8W90/

Overnight you don't really need any additional heat unless the house temps drop below about 65. If they do get that low, then using a ceramic heat emitter is your best bet. It's likely that in Florida this won't be needed so I wouldn't worry about it for now and focus on the daylight bulbs.

You can also get the black soldier fly larvae mentioned in the other post online https://symtonbsf.com/collections/frontpage/products/medium-feeding-grade-grubs as well as silk worms which would also make a good treat when they are available (they tend to be seasonal). You can also order crickets and roaches (florida legal ones, not dubias) online. A young dragon is going to need two bug meals per day (10 min or so all he wants or until he loses interest).

CooperDragon":3mkao4x9 said:

Are you able to order supplies online? If the pet store is that far away (and even if it was closer) you will get the best deals online and there is a wider variety available in terms of equipment and food. A 10g tank is really too small to create a healthy heat and light gradient. Even if you can upgrade to a 20g long in the short term it would be helpful (40g breeder would be better). The 5.0 bulb you have now really isn't sufficient for a dragon and I recommend upgrading that to a 26w higher output bulb. Try the 26w Exo Terra UVB200 which should screw into the current fixture and should provide adequate UVB in that smaller tank. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B4ZRXSW/

The basking light really comes down to bright white light and heat so if the current bulb is producing surface temps at around 100-110 in the basking area and 80 or so on the other side then it is OK. You just need accurate readings of the surface temps. An IR temp gun like this https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Temperature-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B00CVHIJDK or a couple of digital thermometers with probes (one for each side) like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017N8W90/

Overnight you don't really need any additional heat unless the house temps drop below about 65. If they do get that low, then using a ceramic heat emitter is your best bet. It's likely that in Florida this won't be needed so I wouldn't worry about it for now and focus on the daylight bulbs.

You can also get the black soldier fly larvae mentioned in the other post online https://symtonbsf.com/collections/frontpage/products/medium-feeding-grade-grubs as well as silk worms which would also make a good treat when they are available (they tend to be seasonal). You can also order crickets and roaches (florida legal ones, not dubias) online. A young dragon is going to need two bug meals per day (10 min or so all he wants or until he loses interest).

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My parents have to order everything for me, and I pay them back, but they don't want to, so even driving an hour to Petsmart, where I got Mango, would be easier.Honestly the 10 gallon tank cost me nothing because I found it in my grandma's old shed, and I will be upgrading to a 40-100 gallon as soon as possible.
The light you sent me is a coil bulb, don't those cause blindness or something?

It seems pretty warm, I'm getting a thermometer today, but he always turns a darker color while basking, but is a bright pretty color when eating, getting a bath, sleeping, cuddling, or running around in his play pen?

My grandma's house is plenty warm at night, never gets below 60.

I didn't know that dubias were illegal in Florida :shock: maybe it's because of the common roach problem? That's why my mom won't get me get live roaches, they might escape make it worse. I'll look into the worms, and hopefully once I get live bugs he will eat more.

The compact I sent is OK. The danger from some of the compacts is something that seems to have been resolved by using different glass. As long as they are overhead and at an appropriate distance they shouldn't cause eye issues. The problem with a lot of them is that they just don't put out a useful amount of UVB. The 26w UVB200 bulb I linked is a decent bulb at 6-8'' which is appropriate for your smaller tank and should provide adequate UVB. I chose one that fits your tank size/distance, and will fit your existing fixture to save money.

If there is a Petco that you can access, I would keep an eye out for their 1$ per gallon sale. That happens a few times per year and you'll be able to get a 40g breeder for a fantastic deal.

CooperDragon":6me27ye2 said:

The compact I sent is OK. The danger from some of the compacts is something that seems to have been resolved by using different glass. As long as they are overhead and at an appropriate distance they shouldn't cause eye issues. The problem with a lot of them is that they just don't put out a useful amount of UVB. The 26w UVB200 bulb I linked is a decent bulb at 6-8'' which is appropriate for your smaller tank and should provide adequate UVB. I chose one that fits your tank size/distance, and will fit your existing fixture to save money.

If there is a Petco that you can access, I would keep an eye out for their 1$ per gallon sale. That happens a few times per year and you'll be able to get a 40g breeder for a fantastic deal.

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Well thanks! I'll save my money, and I should be getting the light in no time!

I hope they have one soon, Mango is growing fast.

Well, thanks CoopersDragon, you just saved me a while bunch of writing. About the mealworms, I just imagine that crickets would taste better. Mealworms, even when alive, aren't very squirmy and are kind of hard. Superworms are kind of like(in hardness) but are slightly softer and far more active. Who knows, much like humans, beardies do funny things. About the lettuce, I imagine that beardy has diarrhea or malnutrition at the least, Though beardies can be quite hardy(I gave my beardy kale and carrots and no protein for a while and he did just fine, though I give him collards, kale, carrots, apple, and other things now).

KeyBlu422":orjbq012 said:

Well, thanks CoopersDragon, you just saved me a while bunch of writing. About the mealworms, I just imagine that crickets would taste better. Mealworms, even when alive, aren't very squirmy and are kind of hard. Superworms are kind of like(in hardness) but are slightly softer and far more active. Who knows, much like humans, beardies do funny things. About the lettuce, I imagine that beardy has diarrhea or malnutrition at the least, Though beardies can be quite hardy(I gave my beardy kale and carrots and no protein for a while and he did just fine, though I give him collards, kale, carrots, apple, and other things now).

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Actually he won't eat any crickets now, and just wants mealworms, so I'm going to have to get him out of that. He won't touch his crickets, I bought him 2 cans too, kinda a waste, good thing they're only 5 dollars. I would've thought superworms would've been harder, because they are SUPER worms, weird.
I was her friend for a long time, I went there a lot, since I moved recently I haven't seen her, but us and our beardies skype a lot. His poop looked normal to me, and he has grown many inches since I left a week before Thansgiving 2017. He's kinda a fat beardie lol. She said she recently tried giving him crickets, but he won't eat them. ---- Also do beardies get sweeter as they get older? Just wondering
There was one week where Mango would only eat his radish greens, he would not touch his other food, he wanted veggies.

Honestly, beardies, much like humans, can vary in behavior. Also, sorry for the fact that you have to be experiment using money but I would suggest canned silkworms or grasshoppers. Canned Silkworms I've only seen online but the canned flukes grasshoppers might work and I've seen in stores. The grasshoppers are roughly equivalent to that of the canned crickets, maybe slightly better. But, while superworms aren't suitable as staples for growing beardies, if prefer canned superworms over canned mealworms as supers have softer chitin and roughly the same amount of protein and fat as mealworms(not exactly the same, a couple perecentages different protein and fat wise but not of significance).

KeyBlu422":1a4dimnv said:

Honestly, beardies, much like humans, can vary in behavior. Also, sorry for the fact that you have to be experiment using money but I would suggest canned silkworms or grasshoppers. Canned Silkworms I've only seen online but the canned flukes grasshoppers might work and I've seen in stores. The grasshoppers are roughly equivalent to that of the canned crickets, maybe slightly better. But, while superworms aren't suitable as staples for growing beardies, if prefer canned superworms over canned mealworms as supers have softer chitin and roughly the same amount of protein and fat as mealworms(not exactly the same, a couple perecentages different protein and fat wise but not of significance).

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It's always nice to learn something new about beardies!
Wouldn't the canned crickets I bought taste just like the grasshoppers? How are they better? Just curious. I'm sure I can get the silkworms online as long as their in a can, not alive, my parents since they have to buy stuff for me online, just don't want live bugs in our family's house we are staying in until they find our own house. Interesting, I learn something new about beardies and insects every day.
Also I started hand feeding Mango a couple days ago, now he won't eat out of his dish as much, and will only eat if I hand feed him his food. If I leave one day to do something, I don't want him to starve because I'm not there to hand feed him!

Well, or long as the canned insects you give him haven't sat out for a while, you can just leave them. Beardies can get spoiled and go on hunger strikes. Don't worry, you're not starving him. Also, while they may be similar nutritionally, they(crickets vs grasshoppers) don't taste exactly alike. Hand feeding can work but it can sometimes backfire, as it did in your case. Grasshoppers and silkworms are pretty good so either one works, preferably both so he doesn't get bored of them.

Also, nutritionally, freeze dried grasshoppers(flukers brand) offer a far better percentage of protein compared to canned grasshoppers(again, flukers brand). So, I'd recommend the canned version if he takes interest in it.

KeyBlu422":2xtf549y said:

Also, nutritionally, freeze dried grasshoppers(flukers brand) offer a far better percentage of protein compared to canned grasshoppers(again, flukers brand). So, I'd recommend the canned version if he takes interest in it.

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You can't look at the protein content in the case of "freeze-dried" insects at all, because with Bearded Dragons, who get most of their hydration from their LIVE insects and FRESH green/veggies, feeding them freeze-dried anything is not good at all, they contain no moisture at all and end up causing horrible bowel impactions. So you absolutely want to feed her the canned ones, as always LIVE insects are best, but if that's not a possibility then please feed the canned ones, never ever feed any freeze-dried insects or veggies at all to your beardie, it's asking for dehydration and impaction.