So Sunday (today is Thursday) I was given an 18 month old bearded dragon who I was told wasn’t given much attention and just needed a good home. With him I recieved a 42 gallon tank, reptile carpet (although I ended up replacing it), a red infrared heat lamp (I had to replace that to as yesterday it went out + wasn’t hot enough) and a UV lamp for the daytime (as well as all of the in-tank items. If I can post a photo I will). Part of my problem is that because I didn’t have him the first year of his life, I have no clue what his normal behavior is. But ever since the second night, he’s been glass surfing and has very dark colors, and his beard is nearly always puffed/black. To help avoid reflection issues, until my petsmart is restocked on terrarium stickers, I have taped some newspaper where the problem areas are, but he’s just turned to the front window and will splash through his water bowl, fling water everywhere, and then run the length of his tank. I read up on it and saw it could also mean too much energy, so last night I let him out to run around my room for around 15 minutes and then put him back up. About 2 hours later at 3 am he started up again. Another problem I have is picking him up. I’m guessing he wasn’t handled enough as a baby, but when I try to lift him, he squirms everywhere all wild until I either give up and set him back down, or get him into my shoulder -he doesn’t seem to mind riding around on my shoulder- or I’ve disvovered if I lay him with his belly flat on my palm and his limbs hanging down, he calms down and will let me carry him. HE’S ALSO SO FREAKING PICKY!!!!! He’ll eat his crickets, but the lady I got him from sai she hated carrots and she wasn’t kidding. I tried to trick him into eating one, and he chewed it twice before spitting it out D: I even tried to put meal worms underneath his greens and cut up yellow squash, and he somehow skillfully evaded every piece of veggies and only ate the worms. I’m at such a loss for what to do, (it’s already been stressful, as the first 3 days I had him I couldn’t for the life of me get his tank above 85° until finally I had to get a 150 watt infrared bulb and a small heating mat placed under his basking spot) and I feel like such a bad lizard father and as I’ve never had a reptile before i’d really, really appreciate if someone could give me any advice or insight on what the heck my picky boy is doing. (I’m sorry this is so long, i’m just so lost on everything)
New beardie and I could really use some advice
- Thread starter Justem
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Here are photos of his tank and the only way he’ll let me hold him. Goose is very odd about holding and after awhile will get a burst of energy and shoot off in whatever direction he can get away fastest.
I also just saw him try to climb the newspaper, so I’m praying that petsmart has restocked -I’ve gone every day for three days and they STILL don’t have any tank backgrounds restocked- and will get some as soon as I can (this baby has broken my bank account)
I also just saw him try to climb the newspaper, so I’m praying that petsmart has restocked -I’ve gone every day for three days and they STILL don’t have any tank backgrounds restocked- and will get some as soon as I can (this baby has broken my bank account)
Here is good list of nutritious foods.
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
Mine is a picky eater too, rather have worms & bugs, not his salad.
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
Mine is a picky eater too, rather have worms & bugs, not his salad.
Oh my please get rid of the red light!!!!!!!!!!!! Its hurting his eyes!!! This is what you need for his set up--- first your going to need to invest in a bigger tank he should be in a 75-120 gallon tank w/ front doors for easier access for you and for his full potential growth-- next hes going to need the proper lighting - this is what we recommend on this forum --
Which UVB light should I use?
The best UVB light is a ReptiSun 10.0 fluorescent tube HO (Or Arcardia 12% in the UK). Compact or coil bulbs do not emit the proper amount of UVB light for a bearded dragon, and should not be used. Other brands, such as the Zilla Desert Series and ReptiGlo have been known to cause eye problems and other health issues with bearded dragons, and should be avoided. The reason that some UVB lights (Zilla, ReptiGlo, coils/compacts, ect.) are considered dangerous is because the wavelength of UVB that they emit is shorter and more intense than the wavelength of the "safe" lights (ReptiSun, Arcadia).
UVB lights should be replaced every 6 months. The T5’s are a strong bulb and only need to be replaced once a year – the T 8 every 6 months--- where as the T 8 are not as strong—they need to be placed inside the tank the T 5 approx 10-11 inches from basking spot – the T 8 approx 6-8 inches from basking spot—the cover needs to be off the bulb for full effect of the UVB rays-- just make sure you get the 10.0 bulb -- the 5.0 is for more of tropical reptiles--- you can look on online at Amazon or pangeareptiles.com -- you can keep the UVB on top of the tank depending on the screen if its fine mesh it needs to go inside if its a wide hole screen on top--- w/ a small tank it can go on top for now but the larger the tank it will need to go inside depending on the screen and you want a tank w/ front doors that open -- not a top opening -- next is the basking light - a nice bright white bulb that will keep temps on his basking spot 90-105 for adults 100-110 or so for babies--- I recommend dubia roaches for him as they tend not to give parasites/ worms and are way healtheir for him -- also they are easier to keep like in a 10 gallon aquarium can be fed carrots apples squash sweet potato -- hes going to be eating like 6-8 per feeding whereas crickets around 20 or so or as many as he can eat in a 10-15 minutes- the bugs need to be dusted w/ calcium d3 5 x per week and 2 x per week w/ vitamins----- I would recommend you pick up a Infrared heat gun from Walmart Home Depot or Lowes--- they are around $10 -- they give the most accurate temps -- also you can get a digital probe thermometer which will give you ambient temps-- he should have a basking side of tank and a cool side of tank like around 80 and at nite temp should go no lower than 65-- they like it cool and dark to sleep helps w/their metabolism-- and a hydrometer which is for humidity placed on the back of the tank like in the center of the tank -- I have one that gives me on the hydrometer where it says desert moderate or high -- the lighting is the most crucial --the UVB plays a huge role in their eating digesting their overall health--- -- collards mustard turnip greens green beans squash some fruit like apple strawberries blueberries mango sweet potato can be offered---- -- I know I just gave you a ton of info but please ask more questions if you have them-- also to be picking him up you need to have all his legs securely on something thats why hes doing the flinging w/ his tail etc...
thanks for posting pic
Karrie
Which UVB light should I use?
The best UVB light is a ReptiSun 10.0 fluorescent tube HO (Or Arcardia 12% in the UK). Compact or coil bulbs do not emit the proper amount of UVB light for a bearded dragon, and should not be used. Other brands, such as the Zilla Desert Series and ReptiGlo have been known to cause eye problems and other health issues with bearded dragons, and should be avoided. The reason that some UVB lights (Zilla, ReptiGlo, coils/compacts, ect.) are considered dangerous is because the wavelength of UVB that they emit is shorter and more intense than the wavelength of the "safe" lights (ReptiSun, Arcadia).
UVB lights should be replaced every 6 months. The T5’s are a strong bulb and only need to be replaced once a year – the T 8 every 6 months--- where as the T 8 are not as strong—they need to be placed inside the tank the T 5 approx 10-11 inches from basking spot – the T 8 approx 6-8 inches from basking spot—the cover needs to be off the bulb for full effect of the UVB rays-- just make sure you get the 10.0 bulb -- the 5.0 is for more of tropical reptiles--- you can look on online at Amazon or pangeareptiles.com -- you can keep the UVB on top of the tank depending on the screen if its fine mesh it needs to go inside if its a wide hole screen on top--- w/ a small tank it can go on top for now but the larger the tank it will need to go inside depending on the screen and you want a tank w/ front doors that open -- not a top opening -- next is the basking light - a nice bright white bulb that will keep temps on his basking spot 90-105 for adults 100-110 or so for babies--- I recommend dubia roaches for him as they tend not to give parasites/ worms and are way healtheir for him -- also they are easier to keep like in a 10 gallon aquarium can be fed carrots apples squash sweet potato -- hes going to be eating like 6-8 per feeding whereas crickets around 20 or so or as many as he can eat in a 10-15 minutes- the bugs need to be dusted w/ calcium d3 5 x per week and 2 x per week w/ vitamins----- I would recommend you pick up a Infrared heat gun from Walmart Home Depot or Lowes--- they are around $10 -- they give the most accurate temps -- also you can get a digital probe thermometer which will give you ambient temps-- he should have a basking side of tank and a cool side of tank like around 80 and at nite temp should go no lower than 65-- they like it cool and dark to sleep helps w/their metabolism-- and a hydrometer which is for humidity placed on the back of the tank like in the center of the tank -- I have one that gives me on the hydrometer where it says desert moderate or high -- the lighting is the most crucial --the UVB plays a huge role in their eating digesting their overall health--- -- collards mustard turnip greens green beans squash some fruit like apple strawberries blueberries mango sweet potato can be offered---- -- I know I just gave you a ton of info but please ask more questions if you have them-- also to be picking him up you need to have all his legs securely on something thats why hes doing the flinging w/ his tail etc...
thanks for posting pic
Karrie
KarrieRee":2acxm6jo said:
thank you so much--i also spoke to a vet this morning and he told me the same thing about the bulb (i'm so mad now that I know, especially because the person i got him from told me he had to have it) and today I'll be returning it and getting a second, better UVB bulb. As far as the thermometer, I currently have a probe that is the suction cup type and then the cord is reinforced with medical tape for safe keeping. The vet I spoke to and a science professor in my building both told me that to eliminate the issue with light at night and reflections, I could turn off his lights and his heating pad would keep him warm? I'd love to know your thoughts on that. The tank unfortunatly will have to wait to be upgraded because of expenses, but I'm hoping as I bond with him he'll allow me to play with him more. (Furthering that, I'm moving into a dorm room in August that is only supposed to be 20 gal. tanks, so I'll either have to teach my brother -who at the moment is scared of him- how to take care of him, or transfer him to a smaller tank which i *really* don't want to do. Apparently the family I got him from never introduced or tried to convince him to eat veggies, so the vet told me I may have to make him open his mouth and set the squash in and then if he likes it it wont take to much convincing? SOrry this is so many questions-- I really appreciate all of the info and help!
Terry15":11r8sp3i said:
oddly enough until i got a heating mat i was actually struggling to get his tank to 90 degrees even in the daytime. I am going to make sure his night temp is way cooler, and i'm getting rid of that red light today as soon as i'm out of my classes. Thank you!!
i don't have a heat measuring gun right now because i was trying to focus on getting his heating up first, but when I get my next paycheck I'll be upgrading it -i do have a digital probe- i'm getting rid of the lap asap today, and i'm kind of worried that because he had this light for all of his early years, it'll have long-lasting effects on his eyesightTerry15":29exwf85 said:
I am not sure but yes it can effect their eyes-- the heat gun will need to be used for accurate temps-- how big is tank now? I would try a 75 watt basking light-- get temp even w/ a digital probe sitting in spot for now-- you don't want to cook him but he does need the warmth for digesting his food
Karrie
Karrie
KarrieRee":37xilmxv said:
the tank is 42 gallons and i'm gonna do a little extra work for my uncle to get more cash, but today i'm going to go get one of those recommended tube lights for UVB that can go IN his tank instead of sitting on the mesh (probably less of a safety hazard anyway) the digital probe is at even hight with the basking perch about two inches back on the glass, and i move it around a little on occasion to make sure the other side is cool enough
ok so the tank is bigger than I thought -- good -- but he does need to go into a bigger tank -- poor guy I cant imagine living w/ that red light for so long-ugh! Ok well you may need to go to a 100 watt basking light then but he needs it -- just make sure you get the 10.0 bulb UVB-- it takes a regular fixture for the T 8 but doesnt last as long -- the T 5 takes a flat fixture and last longer also you can always change out to a Arcadia 12% or 14 % bulb -- they last a year-- they are confusing at first if you dont know what your looking for at first -- the heating mat I would get rid of -- they heat from their top not the tummy---if you need extra heat you can invest in a ceramic heat emitter w/ NO light ! it will take a dome fixture like your basking light-- they are around $40 or so--- that would be for night time only-- and if your tank is dropping to 65 or below--- I live in MN so mine is on 24/7 during winter and off during the summer-- it keeps my 120 gallon around 70-72 at nite -- you will see you will alot happier dragon w/ the proper husbandry --- and he will like getting out as well --
Karrie
Karrie
KarrieRee":14w2hhlw said:
I tried a ceramic heater but for some reason, it only rose the tank around 5 degrees. He seems to like resting on the heating pad after eating, and typically I unplug it during the day, do you think if it were only night time or i moved it to on the side it would be okay? It's been helping keep heat from being
sucked out of the tank. The heating pad gets to about 70 at most, and every few hours i place my hand on it to make sure it isn't too hot. My room is around 70 degrees typically, and i realized if i have a blanket tucked between the glass and the wall it helps to keep the heat in. Right now the temp is 98 i believe
You can always put Styrofoam on the back of the tank outside - that will also keep the heat in -- what size bulb for the heat emitter -- mine is a 100 watt I beleive-- do you have this tank on a stand? The room temp is also a factor-- your basking bulb is going to heat that tank up -- a bright white light basking up is going to help w/ temps-- so focus on your basking and UVB--- once you get the lighting in place things will start to get better--- as far as substrate you can change that out to a non adhesive shelf liner or a ceramic slated tile -- both from your local hardware store like Home Depot Lowes etc.. its cheap -- only thing I recommend is to wait till you get him in his permanent enclosure--- the tile would need to be cut to tank size and its so much easier than carpet--- same w/ the shelf liner that you can probably do now -- same its easy to clean vinegar and water 50-50 in a spray bottle may be a little more on the vinegar side--
Karrie
Karrie
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