Dragon won't stay out of cool corner!

wenren":xce9c3ks said:

Hey guys, glad to have found the board.

We got our bearded dragon in November, and she lives in a 40 gallon tank. On one side of the tank is her UV and heating lamp, and the other side is just normal.

Our issue is that she'll get in the cool corner and just stay there. She won't go bask, she won't eat, and she doesn't poo. If I pick her up and move her to her basking rock, she will eventually go eat , but then it's back to the corner.

I've read up on brumation, but she's under a year old and it's been going on for at least a month now. <<< should not be allowed to brumate in her first winter.

We feed her complete nutrition pellets <<< exactly what brand ?

, and 30 large crickets about every 10 days.
<<<< not an adequate diet by a long shot ...
TOO SHORT A PHOTOPERIOD (lights are not kept on long enough each day , will make beardie think it is winter , recommend at least 14 HRS PER DAY)


FEEDING SCHEDULE (I recommend at least 2 hrs lights/heat on before first live feed and after last feed of the day)
>>> when are you offering live feeder insects ? what are they ? how big are they ?
>>> when are you offering greens and other veg ? what are you offering ?
good guide is here : http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutritionframeset.html

Suppliments used ?
is the calcium powder vitD3 fortified ? == use with caution.
Potential risks are hypervitaminosis D3 (from excessive ingestion of vitamin D3) and inability to metabolise dietary calcium leading to a buildup of calcium in your beardies blood (hypercalcemia).

the calcium powder vitD3 fortified ? == use with caution.


basic Feeding schedules :

hatchlings
three feeds of live appropriate sized insects per day as many as they want per session offered a few at time if it's hoppy or fast moving
+ offer fresh high calcium greens daily (might not eat it).

Juveniles (6 months to 12 months)
two feeds of insects per day
+ offer fresh high calcium greens daily (might not eat it)

Good staple insects
>> BSF maggots
>> blowfly gents
and the pupae and flies , great for hatchlings and juveniles , naturally rich in calcium
>> silkworms
small (1-1.5 inch for sub 3 month olds)
medium (1.5 - 2 inch for larger hatchlings and juveniles)
large ( > 2 inch for beardies older than 12 months.
>> crickets / roaches / locusts , must be gutloaded with calcium rich foods and greens & dusted LIGHTLY with calcium powder.

Repashi GRUBPIE is acceptable as a backup food.

Hard and soft pellets are dubious , ok mixed in as softened croutons through their greens/salad (maybe).

Bites = rubbish food.



It takes her a while to get up and get the crickets, she doesn't do it as fast as she used to. She gets calcium on her pellets about every week.

Any suggestions or thoughts would be appreciated. This is our first "beardie", and I want her to have a good life!

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