moth3rofdragons
Member
Hello, fellow beardie parents!
First, I want to apologize in advance if I am too wordy with this post.
I need some help regarding a new baby beardie I purchased from Petsmart. I know... But I consider it rescuing the poor beardies! I only wish I could rescue all of them. I purchased two babies, a leatherback and from what I can tell, a hypo (clear nails, but too small and squirmy to examine all of the toes).
Kamikaze (the hypo) I believe might have a URI. Beginning yesterday, I noticed more gaping than usual and infrequent clicking/popping noises. Today there seems to be more gaping and popping, but still infrequent, i.e. when holding Kamikaze to try to listen more closely, I couldn't hear a thing. Might be because he is frightened. I've only had them 6 days.
I've searched the forums and note that Tylosin administered via nebulizer/vaporizer is a good route, with Baytril as a potential backup.
The question I'm going to ask may seem unethical, but I ask simply because I do not have confidence in the only reptile/herp vet in my area (Bay Area, California), after 2 months of unsuccessful antibiotic treatment of Kammie, my first baby beardie I purchased in February.
The back story
Kammie had some sort of stuck shed or a bite from a Petco cage mate that morphed into a terrible skin condition and a swollen rear foot. The vet could not identify the cause because it did NOT present as or appear to be yellow fungus. This was an initial concern of mine because I purchased Kammie after she was quarantined with her cage mate. The Petco sales associate told me a third cage mate had died from yellow fungus, thus the quarantine. When I brought Kammie back to Petco so they could send out a test for yellow fungus, the test came back as negative. I told the sales associate that no matter the outcome, I would be keeping Kammie. I had researched yellow fungus while waiting for the results and knew it was essentially a slow and painful death sentence.
After $2K in vet bills and a recommendation that I put her under general anesthesia so they could obtain 2 biopsies to send to pathology for a more determinative treatment, I declined. At this point, Kammie was not eating, not drinking, and in extensive pain due to the scabs and missing scales she had on her underside. I thought I was going to lose her, at which time I asked the vet to prescribe pain medication until Kammie passed. The vet also prescribed Critical Care.
I wasn't ready to give up though, and neither was Kammie. I already had the BeneBac (funny how I bought this on my own and not from any recommendation from the vet) for the 2 months worth of antibiotics she was getting. I purchased bee pollen, colloidal silver, Monistat and generic Lotrimin.
Within 2-3 days of alternating the Monistat and Lotrimin and dissolving the BeneBac, colloidal silver, and bee pollen in her drinking water, Kammie's scabs begin to dry up and all eventual fell off. Her appetite came back. I'm happy to report Kammie is much better. Her foot is still somewhat swollen, and she has no scales where the scabs used to be, but she eats like a champ (still not big on veggies though) and pretty much has me trained to hand feed her daily. :lol:
Back to the Question(s)
What websites can I buy both Baytril and Tylosin at reasonable prices?
Is there a weight or length requirement for administering either? In looking at Panacur dosages, the dosing chart I found started at 50 grams. I've got a way to go yet should they need Panacur. I'm not sure what Baytril or Tylosin should be, if at all, for a baby!
I've looked on Amazon, PetRx, 1-800-Petmeds, etc. Either a vendor will have one medication, but not the other, or none at all. My other concern is the lead time in getting the meds. I want them sooner than later, particularly in such a young and teensy weensy baby beardie.
When I purchased Kamikaze six days ago, he was 12-13 grams and approximately 7" OVT. Today he weighs 18 grams.
Current enclosure set up
1. 60L plastic bin, paper towel substrate. I know this is on the small end for 2 baby beardies, but it is very temporary. I purchased a 4' Carolina Custom tank for Kammie, and the 2 babies will go into her 40g breeder once the table for the 4' tank arrives, and I've thoroughly disinfected with F10. In a couple months, the babies will be separated, as I'm pretty confident Kamikaze is a male and the leatherback is female. I can see femoral pores on Kamikaze already. I also thought Kammie was a girl, but after checking a couple nights ago, I believe Kammie is a boy. I know no 2 males in an enclosure, and I definitely have enough babies for now! No breeding anytime soon, if at all.
2. 100W MVB, temp is at 105 degrees on the hot end, about 85-89 degrees on the cool end. Running a 13-hour daytime cycle, on timer. After reading about recommended temps for URIs, I've increased the temp to 110. Tonight I will be using a ceramic heater to keep nighttime temps at around 80 degrees. Ambient night temp in my home is about 74 degrees.
3. Fresh water and veggies daily, for the entire day: a combination of finely chopped collard greens and mustard greens; water is removed every evening. 3/8" dusted dubia roaches or BSF, fed 3x a day. I have started a dubia colony, but no nymphs yet. None of my babies will be getting crickets. Kammie had parasites and that med along with everything else she was going through taught me well. The vet never told me which parasite(s), and I've since purchased all the materials needed to do my own fecal tests. I still have some Panacur left over should I need to treat the babies when they are at the appropriate weight.
If there is any additional advice, recommendations, or caveats, I greatly appreciate it! This forum has been a blessing, first when I was researching all about being a new beardie mom, Kammie's illness, and now, a potential URI. I hope I can eventually pass it forward.
Thank you again for all the help!
First, I want to apologize in advance if I am too wordy with this post.
I need some help regarding a new baby beardie I purchased from Petsmart. I know... But I consider it rescuing the poor beardies! I only wish I could rescue all of them. I purchased two babies, a leatherback and from what I can tell, a hypo (clear nails, but too small and squirmy to examine all of the toes).
Kamikaze (the hypo) I believe might have a URI. Beginning yesterday, I noticed more gaping than usual and infrequent clicking/popping noises. Today there seems to be more gaping and popping, but still infrequent, i.e. when holding Kamikaze to try to listen more closely, I couldn't hear a thing. Might be because he is frightened. I've only had them 6 days.
I've searched the forums and note that Tylosin administered via nebulizer/vaporizer is a good route, with Baytril as a potential backup.
The question I'm going to ask may seem unethical, but I ask simply because I do not have confidence in the only reptile/herp vet in my area (Bay Area, California), after 2 months of unsuccessful antibiotic treatment of Kammie, my first baby beardie I purchased in February.
The back story
Kammie had some sort of stuck shed or a bite from a Petco cage mate that morphed into a terrible skin condition and a swollen rear foot. The vet could not identify the cause because it did NOT present as or appear to be yellow fungus. This was an initial concern of mine because I purchased Kammie after she was quarantined with her cage mate. The Petco sales associate told me a third cage mate had died from yellow fungus, thus the quarantine. When I brought Kammie back to Petco so they could send out a test for yellow fungus, the test came back as negative. I told the sales associate that no matter the outcome, I would be keeping Kammie. I had researched yellow fungus while waiting for the results and knew it was essentially a slow and painful death sentence.
After $2K in vet bills and a recommendation that I put her under general anesthesia so they could obtain 2 biopsies to send to pathology for a more determinative treatment, I declined. At this point, Kammie was not eating, not drinking, and in extensive pain due to the scabs and missing scales she had on her underside. I thought I was going to lose her, at which time I asked the vet to prescribe pain medication until Kammie passed. The vet also prescribed Critical Care.
I wasn't ready to give up though, and neither was Kammie. I already had the BeneBac (funny how I bought this on my own and not from any recommendation from the vet) for the 2 months worth of antibiotics she was getting. I purchased bee pollen, colloidal silver, Monistat and generic Lotrimin.
Within 2-3 days of alternating the Monistat and Lotrimin and dissolving the BeneBac, colloidal silver, and bee pollen in her drinking water, Kammie's scabs begin to dry up and all eventual fell off. Her appetite came back. I'm happy to report Kammie is much better. Her foot is still somewhat swollen, and she has no scales where the scabs used to be, but she eats like a champ (still not big on veggies though) and pretty much has me trained to hand feed her daily. :lol:
Back to the Question(s)
What websites can I buy both Baytril and Tylosin at reasonable prices?
Is there a weight or length requirement for administering either? In looking at Panacur dosages, the dosing chart I found started at 50 grams. I've got a way to go yet should they need Panacur. I'm not sure what Baytril or Tylosin should be, if at all, for a baby!
I've looked on Amazon, PetRx, 1-800-Petmeds, etc. Either a vendor will have one medication, but not the other, or none at all. My other concern is the lead time in getting the meds. I want them sooner than later, particularly in such a young and teensy weensy baby beardie.
When I purchased Kamikaze six days ago, he was 12-13 grams and approximately 7" OVT. Today he weighs 18 grams.
Current enclosure set up
1. 60L plastic bin, paper towel substrate. I know this is on the small end for 2 baby beardies, but it is very temporary. I purchased a 4' Carolina Custom tank for Kammie, and the 2 babies will go into her 40g breeder once the table for the 4' tank arrives, and I've thoroughly disinfected with F10. In a couple months, the babies will be separated, as I'm pretty confident Kamikaze is a male and the leatherback is female. I can see femoral pores on Kamikaze already. I also thought Kammie was a girl, but after checking a couple nights ago, I believe Kammie is a boy. I know no 2 males in an enclosure, and I definitely have enough babies for now! No breeding anytime soon, if at all.
2. 100W MVB, temp is at 105 degrees on the hot end, about 85-89 degrees on the cool end. Running a 13-hour daytime cycle, on timer. After reading about recommended temps for URIs, I've increased the temp to 110. Tonight I will be using a ceramic heater to keep nighttime temps at around 80 degrees. Ambient night temp in my home is about 74 degrees.
3. Fresh water and veggies daily, for the entire day: a combination of finely chopped collard greens and mustard greens; water is removed every evening. 3/8" dusted dubia roaches or BSF, fed 3x a day. I have started a dubia colony, but no nymphs yet. None of my babies will be getting crickets. Kammie had parasites and that med along with everything else she was going through taught me well. The vet never told me which parasite(s), and I've since purchased all the materials needed to do my own fecal tests. I still have some Panacur left over should I need to treat the babies when they are at the appropriate weight.
If there is any additional advice, recommendations, or caveats, I greatly appreciate it! This forum has been a blessing, first when I was researching all about being a new beardie mom, Kammie's illness, and now, a potential URI. I hope I can eventually pass it forward.
Thank you again for all the help!