I just got this beardie Sun and she’s freaking me out!!

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For starters I have never owned a bd. Neon is my first and she’s scaring me. When I got her from petsmart she was basking with all the others I never noticed her tail. The tip of it looks like it has been bit or squished and is now drying out. So I looked and tail rot is what I’m worried about I have an appt but I just gotta make it to then. Other then that she has been eating normal chasing her crickets and being a normal bd until today she was chilling then bam she started waving and running all over her tank. Now her stress marks so prominent I’m afraid she’ll die of a heart attack!
 

VenusAndSaturn

Sub-Adult Member
It's probably nothing, sometimes beardies freak out a bit before going back to normal inside their tank.
How long have you had her?
Stress marks aren't exactly stress marks, its actually used to warm up more underneath the heat.
I'm not sure where the myth even came from that the natural markings on their belly indicates stress.

https://www.beardeddragon.org/useruploads/
You can go there to upload pictures.
Then once uploaded come back and hit the XIMG tab when replying to select the uploaded pictures.

If you can get pictures of her tail, her whole body, her light setup, and her whole tank along with the supplements you use.

Do you have a UVB bulb along side those heat lamps?
If so what kind?
And does your night time bulb emit any light?
 

Christycree

Member
Original Poster
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this is her she’s a fancy baby beardie
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what her gauges are reading so far since yeasterday.
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her tank set up I do not have another light. Just the basking and the night. Please what other light should I have?
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these are the supplements and inside the cricket tot is a calcium tablet.
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her tail it really worries me hopefully we can wait until next week if not petsmart said if she is acting unusual I can bring her back and they will check her out.
 

Christycree

Member
Original Poster
I have to figure out how to raise the night bulb cuz I found out it was way to hot for the top of her tank. It’s a plastic topped tank that locks and it started to soften one side so I lifted it with rocks for now which helped. I’m think of making a metal mesh lid like a friend of mine has for his bd. And I don’t usually keep both bulbs on I just turned it on so u can see the light it gives off I took some pictures Incase u needed to see how I set it up for night.
 

Christycree

Member
Original Poster
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she moved and I got another picture. Ok so I got her yesterday Feb.11.
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this is how it looks at night after I turn her basking light off.
 

lizardmom25

Hatchling Member
Looks like a tail nip. No need to freak out, but do have a vet check it.

Short version on husbandry:
You need to get rid of the night bulb altogether, and get a 10.0 UVB floruscent bulb, the linear one, and a fixture for it.

Those thermometers are not accurate. They can be as much as 20 degrees off. Get a digital probe thermometer and a temperature gun. Basking spot should be about 110, hot side about 90, cool side 75-80. No need for night heat unless you room gets below 65.

The bag food is pretty much useless. You need to be feeding live feeders and fresh veg.

You need to get a calcium and multivitamin to dust feeder insects. The cricket cubes are ok, but they should also be gutloaded with fresh veg.
 

VenusAndSaturn

Sub-Adult Member
The tail is definitely a bit concerning but nothing to freak out just yet about, if you can get some raw unpasteurized honey. It's one of the best for healing and you can avoid an infection somewhat. I've been using it on two of my adult beardies, a bit on my adult females nose (shes rubbed it a bit raw on the glass) and then on the end of my adult males tail just in case as it accidentally got caught in something a few weeks ago.

If you notice it spreading at all take her to a REPTILE SPECIALIST.
http://www.anapsid.org/vets/#vetlist
This should give you a few thats nearby.

As the above post said, the night bulb definitely needs to go. They can see in color so if you need a night time heat source for those nights below 65*F then go with a ceramic heat emitter.
As for UVB specifically look for a REPTISUN T5 HO 10.0 Tube light/linear one and then a reflective fixture. You can get these off amazon for a fairly cheap price.

I dont see any dusting supplements, so you'll want to get a CALCIUM WITHOUT D3 supplement, and a MULTIVITAMIN supplement.
Calcium 5x a week.
Multivitamins 2x a week.
 

Christycree

Member
Original Poster
So once I get the uvb bulb do I turn his basking light on n off to mimic the day and night cycle? I was told I needed to mimic so she can sleep. She hasn’t really touched the juvenile pellets... they look like green rabbit turds I wouldn’t eat them either.. I’ll change it up. I put a calcium table in the crickets called a cricket block basically it’s a calcium and gutload block. Should I take it out of the crickets cage?
I also heard about a povidone-iodine tail soak for 5 mins a day and then putting Neosporin nonpain relief on it. Is this another possibility or not a good idea until a vet is seen?
 

VenusAndSaturn

Sub-Adult Member
Well you see you need to dust the crickets along with feeding high quality food to them so your beardie doesn't have a mineral/calcium deficiency from not getting the right needed supplements.
You can still use those orange blocks but make sure to give them some greens as well.
And dont forget to dust the feedings like I stated in my last post with those specific supplements.

For a night and day cycle you would keep the basking light and uvb light on together for about 14 hours, and then turn both off until they need to come back on again at the set time.
So lets say you turn lights on at 8 AM, they go off at 10 PM. So they would get about 10 hours of sleep which is perfect for that schedule.


When you do get the UVB bulb make sure you mount it in a way where its either in front or behind the basking bulb.
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Somewhat like this.
Also don't mind the soil in the picture used, its long gone by now and replaced with paper towels as it didn't work out for a dig area like I thought it would and the crickets got up underneath the tile very easily.
 

JLynn87

Hatchling Member
You are not too far off from where I was back in late Aug 2017. I also got my beardie from a
Petsmart and was sold very inappropriate lights, thermometers and food. I have spent many hours researching and have been given the best advice from this forum. Top things I have learned, brand is important with UVB!!! One of the top UVB is ReptiSun T5HO 10.0 TUBE, do not use coil or compact as they have been known to cause eye issues. UVB is a must, it plays an important role in their overall health and well-being. Mount you UVB tube inside the tank, just beneath the mesh top, use a fixture with a reflector or purchase a clip-on metal reflector, this too is important. Be sure your beardie can be within 10" of the UVB, the distance will depend on what tube you purchase, come back for further details! I bought all of these on Amazon, it is much cheaper, also think outside the box and visit hardware stores for fixtures. You want the whole tank to be filled with light, be sure you have the basking light next to the UVB so your baby can absorb all vitamins and heat. Lighting is half the battle and by far the most difficult part of being a new parent.

As already stated from another poster, the stick-on thermometers are useless. You want to check temps in various areas at various times of day. I use two wire probes and an infrared gun, temps are my nemesis as I live in MT and it may be -25 one day, 40 the next in winter and anywhere from 70-105 in the summer. I cannot keep her heat consistent day in and day out, but in time I will figure it out once and for all!! If you need to keep heat at night, use ceramic heat emitters that do not produce light. Beardies sleep conditions are interesting to read about, they go through cycles just as we do, but theirs are in shorter intervals. I have an article somewhere, but you should be able to find on the forum. Just know that light interferes with their sleep, so night bulbs are no good.

It is tough to tell from your picture, but a 40 gallon tank is the absolute smallest tank for a fully grown beardie; if it is possible, consider investing in a bigger tank or homemade enclosure. Please do not think that you have to stress out and spend even more money, some can afford to and some, such as me, cannot. I am slowly building one out of an oak entertainment center I found on craigslist, this has been a process for a few months as I had to spend money on my initial set-up then money on the correct set-up. If money is an issue, start with the UVB as it is crucial, then work your way to the other things. Shop around before buying, look at Amazon, Ebay, Craiglist, Wal-mart, Home Depot, garage sales, Facebook if you have it (I do not, but my co-worker let me use hers lol).

Feeding is easier than lighting, I have found black soldier fly larvae (BSFL), dubia roaches and hornworms to be the easiest and healthiest live feeders. BSFL and hornworms take the least amount of work as you do not have to gut load the same as dubias and crickets. Hornworms are great for hydration, if you were told water is not important because they are desert, then you were mislead just like me. Hydration is important!!! Crickets are easier to find in petstores, but they are noisy, smelly and they escape easily O(for me at least). Dubias are great, but you do have to gut loas and dust with calcium and multivitamin. I will not educate of vitamins as I have too little of knowlege on the subject. I would say to stay away from pet stores for food, lighting or most things really. I order BSFL and hornworms from mulberryfarms.com or dubiaroaches.com, both will deliver to your home or post office and they are much cheaper than buying in pet stores. I prefer mulberryfarms as they have excellent communication and are great at educating. Offer fresh vegetables daily, he may not eat or show any interest, but it is good to start introducing for when he gets older, use http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html it is a simplified list of what is great, okay, not so good or flat out do not offer this to your beardie. I prefer to offer a variety of live and vegetable, I am hoping this will help her to not be picky. DO NOT FEED MEALWORMS!!! Mealworms can cause impaction and are fatty. I have also read horror stories about superworms, but cannot tell yet as to what is fact and what is fiction.

Just in case you do not know, sand or anything similar should not be used as beardies lick everything and the sand can cause impaction.

This is a lot of information and may seem overwhelming at first, but once you get the basics down, everything is much easier. I have had Lady Mufasa about 5 months, she was an estimated 1 mo old when I got her from the store. After 5 months tof]gether she and I have formed a bond, while they are not like dogs, they still have personality. When I speak to her she recognizes my voice over others, when I have her out and one of my niece/ nephews frighten her, she runs to me, when she is tired, she buries her face in my hair, neck, arms, hands or side, I try to move her and she will come back. Ways I found to build a bond is to interact with her as much as possible, maybe not when you first get them, but after the intial relocation stress (about two weeks at most). I first started talking to her while she was in her tank, then I would take her out and set her on my leg or sit the bath tub with her. Then I read that putting a piece of clothing that I have worn, but not washed, in her tank would help her get used to my smell; needless to say, I no longer have my woolly socks, she LOVES THEM!!

Little tips just in case you encounter constipation, gently rub your fingers from top of abdomen to vent, warm baths, pumpkin. If you notice swelling and there is no known injury, try tart cherry juice undiluted and unflavored pedialyte separate syringe than the juice. Of course, stop on the forum as there are several here who can offer better advice than most vets. I give these tips as I have encountered slight constipation and gout with my girl and these are useful to start while you wait for assistance, plus they do not cause harm if it is not constipation or gout. I am nowhere near expert status, butI am here if you need anything. Time to let the true experts intervene if needed!
 

Christycree

Member
Original Poster
So the uvb light bulb is a 10.0 t5 oh?
Thank you all I feel a lil better about this yes very overwhelming! honestly I wanted to cry earlier afraid of how awful a bd mom I am... I can’t even get my bd started out right.... sighs I can raise my kids but their total different!
 

VenusAndSaturn

Sub-Adult Member
Yes you'll want to get a T5 HO 10.0 tube light, specifically a Reptisun as it is one of the most trusted brands currently beside Arcadia.
 

Christycree

Member
Original Poster
Ok thank you so very much. Vet appt is next week should she be ok til then with her tail?
As for the rest I need calcium without vit D3, multivitamin, a uvb bulb and fixture, and fresh veggies for Neon and leafy green for the crickets.. that’s not to bad...
 
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