Hello guys!I've been on this forum since we got our baby beardie in December. This past week he has been acting weird.he hasn't eaten much and he's limping. He also look like wants to poop but he can't.He stands up ,wiggles his behind and he opens his mouth when hes trying to poop. I'm very worried. Please if anyone could give me information to help my beardie feel better or if it's something more serious. We did take him to the vet today and they did get a fecal test out of him so I don't know if tthat could be the cause. They told us it could be a bacteria or a fungal infection but would that make him lethargic and act like that?
Constipated beardie?Something more?Very Worried
- Thread starter Sanv33
- Start date
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I would ignore the vet at this point, it's sounds like he's straining to poop and he can't, and if they end up wanting to put him on medication for parasites it can start a downward spiral that never ends well. And it sounds like this vet is probably an "exotics" vet that doesn't know what they're talking about, based on what you're describing. First let's start by posting some photos of him, and his entire enclosure and lights. That will help us determine any husbandry issues that are causing him to have digestion or bowel issues.
What has his daily diet been since you brought him home? How often are you dusting his live insects with calcium and then also with a multivitamin?
What size is his tank/enclosure? (Gallons or Dimensions)
What type of Substrate do you have in the bottom of his tank/enclosure? (Tile, Paper Towels, Carpet, Sand, Calcium Sand, Crushed Walnut Shells, etc.)
Exactly what UVB light do you have? Please list the brand, model/wattage/strength (if it's a tube the strength will be either T8 or T5), and then the type of UVB light it is, meaning is it a long tube (at least 18"), a compact bulb (like a regular light bulb), a coil bulb (like a regular light bulb but spiral/coiled), or a Mercury Vapor Bulb (all-in-one UVB and heat/light bulb)? Is the UVB light on top of a mesh lid to the tank, or obstructed by anything else? (If it's a long tube, does the long tube fixture that it's in have any type of clear, plastic cover on it that is covering the UVB tube)? And how far away (in inches) is the UVB light from his basking spot/platform?
What type of thermometer are you using to measure his temperature zones?
What is the Basking Spot Surface Temperature? Hot Side Ambient (air) Temperature? Cool Side Ambient (air) Temperature?
What color is his Basking Bulb? (white, red, blue, purple, etc.) What wattage is his Basking Bulb?
How many hours each day do you leave both his UVB light and his Basking Bulb on?
Usually bowel impactions in young babies that are a couple of months old have to do with either a loose substrate being in the bottom of their tank, improper temperatures inside the tank (specifically the Basking Spot Surface Temperature), or an inadequate, improper daily diet.
Have you tried putting him in a warm bath for 15-20 minutes to see if this helps him to poop?
What has his daily diet been since you brought him home? How often are you dusting his live insects with calcium and then also with a multivitamin?
What size is his tank/enclosure? (Gallons or Dimensions)
What type of Substrate do you have in the bottom of his tank/enclosure? (Tile, Paper Towels, Carpet, Sand, Calcium Sand, Crushed Walnut Shells, etc.)
Exactly what UVB light do you have? Please list the brand, model/wattage/strength (if it's a tube the strength will be either T8 or T5), and then the type of UVB light it is, meaning is it a long tube (at least 18"), a compact bulb (like a regular light bulb), a coil bulb (like a regular light bulb but spiral/coiled), or a Mercury Vapor Bulb (all-in-one UVB and heat/light bulb)? Is the UVB light on top of a mesh lid to the tank, or obstructed by anything else? (If it's a long tube, does the long tube fixture that it's in have any type of clear, plastic cover on it that is covering the UVB tube)? And how far away (in inches) is the UVB light from his basking spot/platform?
What type of thermometer are you using to measure his temperature zones?
What is the Basking Spot Surface Temperature? Hot Side Ambient (air) Temperature? Cool Side Ambient (air) Temperature?
What color is his Basking Bulb? (white, red, blue, purple, etc.) What wattage is his Basking Bulb?
How many hours each day do you leave both his UVB light and his Basking Bulb on?
Usually bowel impactions in young babies that are a couple of months old have to do with either a loose substrate being in the bottom of their tank, improper temperatures inside the tank (specifically the Basking Spot Surface Temperature), or an inadequate, improper daily diet.
Have you tried putting him in a warm bath for 15-20 minutes to see if this helps him to poop?
EllenD":1yeu0lti said:
Thank you so much for replying!Here's the information regarding our Beardie.
Food:We feed him small crickets and small superworms dusted in calcium.We also feed him carrots and collard greens once or twice a week. 90% protein and 10% veggies.
Tank: 10 gallon enclosure and the bottom of his tank is aligned with paper towels.
Lights:He has an Exo Terra UVB light 13w and a Zoo Med Repti Basking Spot Halo 100w
Thermometers:On his cool side he has a Great Choice Thermometer and on is basking side he has an All Living things Thermometer.
Temperature:His basking side is around 100-105 and his cool side is 80 degrees fahrenheit.
Basking light Type:It is a white color and its a coil type of bulb.His lights are on betweeen 7:20 and-7:20 PM and both lights sit on top of the mesh.
More information:Once we got back from the vet we looked up information and impaction came up. We gave him a 15 minute bath.Also my brother informed me he did eat very little yesterday but threw it up.
Here Are the pictures:
http://s207.photobucket.com/user/sandravl_1992/media/20180202_152624_zpsno1tojxb.jpg.html
Pictures of my Beardie:
This was him around the time we took him to the vet
Beardie after he got home:
Update:
We put him back in his terrarium with his blanket.He walked up to where he usually sleeps at night and has been there since. He has moved a little bit and tries again to go to the restroom but i guess tires himself and he goes back to how he is in the picture.He pooped a little bit but it was a liquid type of stool.
Thank you so much replying! Will do!I will get rid of the superworms. When he threw up he did throw up superworms.I hope so too.We have grown so attached to him and want the best for him. After his bath he was a little more active just a little though. He moved to his usual basking spot and then to his sleeping spot.AHBD":2srqp1lz said:
Hello,
Yes, discontinue the superworms, he is too young to pass them through very well. Try some
calcium/phoenix worms or butterworms, instead. Small silkworms are great also. Do you
use roaches or crickets for him?
The Reptiglo UVB light you have is a compact/coil light which wont put off enough exposure
for him. Try to upgrade to a long tube bulb, such as the Reptisun 10 or the Arcadia D3 12 or
14% either one.
The thermometer you have, is it the round stick on type I see mounted on the inside of the
tank or do you also have a digital probe too? His temperatures are probably off some, too if
you are using the round analogue type of thermometer. The digital probes are much more
accurate for measuring the temperatures.
Let us know how he is doing.
Tracie
Yes, discontinue the superworms, he is too young to pass them through very well. Try some
calcium/phoenix worms or butterworms, instead. Small silkworms are great also. Do you
use roaches or crickets for him?
The Reptiglo UVB light you have is a compact/coil light which wont put off enough exposure
for him. Try to upgrade to a long tube bulb, such as the Reptisun 10 or the Arcadia D3 12 or
14% either one.
The thermometer you have, is it the round stick on type I see mounted on the inside of the
tank or do you also have a digital probe too? His temperatures are probably off some, too if
you are using the round analogue type of thermometer. The digital probes are much more
accurate for measuring the temperatures.
Let us know how he is doing.
Tracie
Hello.Yes, I will be releasing the superworms outside and not feeding him that anymore. The thermometers are just stick on. Thank you for the information. We will be going to our local reptile store to find the items you have recommended.Drache613":2ukd00bx said:
Update on my beardie. We gave him another bath and he pooped a yellow mucus kind of substance I'm not sure of that's a good sign or bad. He's back in his cage just laying around and still limps when he does move.
Yes, no Superworms until he's much larger/older, they really shouldn't have them until they are at least 12-14" long..
You've got several issues that are causing him to be impacted...DO NOT GIVE HIM ANY MEDICATIONS IF THE VET GAVE THEM TO YOU, HE DOESN'T NEED THEM AND THE WILL ONLY MAKE HIM WORSE!!! His impactions are related to lighting, temps, and diet, not illness or parasites/infections.
A 10 gallon tank is too small to keep a dragon in, even a small baby, because you cannot get proper temps inside one, it's impossible. You are using only stick-on thermometers on each side, which only read Ambient/Air temperatures, so you have a serious temperature gradient issue due to the size of the tank...
Here's the problem: You're getting a temperature of over 100 degrees on the Hot Side of his tank, but it's being read on a stick-on thermometer, meaning that it's an Ambient/Air temperature, not a Surface temperature, which can only be read by either a Temp Gun or a Digital Probe Thermometer.
The Basking Spot Surface Temperature should be between 105-110 degrees for a baby/juvenile, and between 100-105 for an adult over a year or so old...but this is the SURFACE TEMP of his basking spot/platform, not the surrounding Air Temperature on the Hot Side of the tank...
The HOT SIDE AMBIENT (air) TEMPERATURE for any dragon should be between 88-93 degrees max...THIS IS THE TEMPERATURE RANGE THAT HIS TANK IS READING AT OVER 100 DEGREES!!! FAR TOO HOT!!!
And the COOL SIDE AMBIENT (air) TEMP should be between 75-80 degrees, which is fine by your reading of 80 degrees.
So here's the problem: His Basking Spot Surface Temperature is going to be much hotter than the surround Hot Side Ambient Temp, which you're reading as being in the 100's...this is dehydrating him, and causing him to be lethargic and not hungry I'm sure. I can tell by his photo he's tired and dehydrated...
You need to get him a larger tank ASAP, a 40 Gallon Breeder Tank is going to be needed by the time he's 6 months old, but at least a 20 Gallon LONG tank is going to be required to get his Basking Spot Surface Temp and his Hot Side Ambient temps within the correct ranges...I'd just get the 40 Gallon Breeder Tank now, but if that's not possible (YOU NEED TO GET HIM A PROPER UVB LIGHT IMMEDIATELY, ALONG WITH A FIXTURE FOR IT, THIS IS NOT OPTIONAL), you can actually use a large, plastic tub, like the kind you buy at Walmart for him in the meantime. Either way, you need to either raise the Basking Bulb up, or better yet, for that size of tank, you need to just buy a lower wattage of Bright-White colored Basking Bulb, and no "Coiled" bulbs ever, not for any of his lights, they can cause serious eye and neurological damage...you can either buy a bright-white colored, Reptile Specialty Basking Bulb, or you can buy a regular, Halogen Indoor Flood Bulb, the Par38 kind that you can buy at Lowes, Home Depot, Tractor Supply, etc. It obviously needs to be lower wattage than the bulb you have now..
You also must spend $10 on a Digital Probe Thermometer, because right now you have no way at all to measure his Basking Spot Surface Temp...They cost $10 at any Petco or Petsmart, and have a Probe on a wire that you can place directly on his Basking Spot/platform, let lay there for at least 20-30 minutes, then read. This is the only way to get a Basking Spot Surface Temp, which needs to be between 105-110 degrees, and THEN the surrounding Hot Side Air Temp needs to be between 88-93 degrees, right now it's about 10 or more degrees too hot...so that's a major issue....
The second major issue is the UVB light, and this is a very serious issue, as he will not have any appetite, nor would he be able to absorb any nutrition from his food even if he was eating, nor from his supplements....Compact and Coil bulb UVB lights are just far too weak for Desert Reptiles, specifically Bearded Dragons, and they only cause severe Calcium Deficiency and MBD. Then it's on top of a mesh lid, which is blocking almost half of the UVB light emitted by the already far-too-weak UVB bulb, so the bottom line is that he's getting pretty much no UVB or UVA light right now, nor has he since he has been under that UVB light...
Bearded Dragons need a long, fluorescent UVB tube and matching tube fixture with a reflector. It's not optional. There are two different strengths of UVB tubes: the much weaker T8, and the much stronger T5...I highly recommend the stronger T5 UVB tube, as it is not only much, much better for him, but it will save you money as it only needs replaced once a year, the T8 tubes must be replaced every 6 months...
The weaker T8 UVB tubes cannot sit on top of the mesh lid either, they aren't strong enough to penetrate adequate UVB or UVA light to your dragon on the other side of the mesh. They have to be strapped to the underside of the mesh using long zip ties, wire, twine, shoelaces, etc. They also must be within at least 6" of his basking spot/platform, and replaced every 6 months, as they have a very fast UVB decay rate, and at 6 months they no longer emit any UVB light.
In contrast, the much stronger T5 UVB tubes are good for 12 months before needing replaced, and are strong enough to sit on top of the mesh lid, just as long as they are within 10-11" of his basking spot/platform. This is what most experienced Beardie owners and Breeders use, and we have no issues like this at all because of using the correct UVB lights...It's not your fault, the pet shop employees certainly have no idea what they're talking about (usually), and if you bought any type of Bearded Dragon "Kit" then that's why you got all the wrong stuff...but the UVB tube is crucial.
The best place to buy a UVB tube and tube fixture is on Amazon.com, it's the cheapest place and has fast, free shipping. T5 UVB tubes are hard to find in pet shops, most tubes are only the weaker T8 tubes, but even if you find a T5 tube in a pet shop it will cost you a fortune.
You want to buy either a Reptisun 10.0 or an Aracadia brand UVB tube (DO NOT BUY A REPTISUN 5.0 TUBE, ONLY 10.0, AS 5.0 ARE ONLY 5% UVB LIGHT, FOR TROPICAL REPTILES)...
A 22" Reptisun 10.0 T5HO UVB tube costs about $24 on Amazon.com shipped, while they also sell a 24" T5-rated (good for up to 24 watts) tube fixture that has a reflector included for around $28 shipped. So for around $50 you can buy one of the best UVB tubes available for him..
Please avoid the UVB tube brands Zilla, All Living Things, ReptileOne, Trixie, and pretty much any others besides Reptisun 10.0 and Arcadia, as these other brands all emit harmful light rays that always seem to cause eye damage, blindness, and neurological damage...
You've got several issues that are causing him to be impacted...DO NOT GIVE HIM ANY MEDICATIONS IF THE VET GAVE THEM TO YOU, HE DOESN'T NEED THEM AND THE WILL ONLY MAKE HIM WORSE!!! His impactions are related to lighting, temps, and diet, not illness or parasites/infections.
A 10 gallon tank is too small to keep a dragon in, even a small baby, because you cannot get proper temps inside one, it's impossible. You are using only stick-on thermometers on each side, which only read Ambient/Air temperatures, so you have a serious temperature gradient issue due to the size of the tank...
Here's the problem: You're getting a temperature of over 100 degrees on the Hot Side of his tank, but it's being read on a stick-on thermometer, meaning that it's an Ambient/Air temperature, not a Surface temperature, which can only be read by either a Temp Gun or a Digital Probe Thermometer.
The Basking Spot Surface Temperature should be between 105-110 degrees for a baby/juvenile, and between 100-105 for an adult over a year or so old...but this is the SURFACE TEMP of his basking spot/platform, not the surrounding Air Temperature on the Hot Side of the tank...
The HOT SIDE AMBIENT (air) TEMPERATURE for any dragon should be between 88-93 degrees max...THIS IS THE TEMPERATURE RANGE THAT HIS TANK IS READING AT OVER 100 DEGREES!!! FAR TOO HOT!!!
And the COOL SIDE AMBIENT (air) TEMP should be between 75-80 degrees, which is fine by your reading of 80 degrees.
So here's the problem: His Basking Spot Surface Temperature is going to be much hotter than the surround Hot Side Ambient Temp, which you're reading as being in the 100's...this is dehydrating him, and causing him to be lethargic and not hungry I'm sure. I can tell by his photo he's tired and dehydrated...
You need to get him a larger tank ASAP, a 40 Gallon Breeder Tank is going to be needed by the time he's 6 months old, but at least a 20 Gallon LONG tank is going to be required to get his Basking Spot Surface Temp and his Hot Side Ambient temps within the correct ranges...I'd just get the 40 Gallon Breeder Tank now, but if that's not possible (YOU NEED TO GET HIM A PROPER UVB LIGHT IMMEDIATELY, ALONG WITH A FIXTURE FOR IT, THIS IS NOT OPTIONAL), you can actually use a large, plastic tub, like the kind you buy at Walmart for him in the meantime. Either way, you need to either raise the Basking Bulb up, or better yet, for that size of tank, you need to just buy a lower wattage of Bright-White colored Basking Bulb, and no "Coiled" bulbs ever, not for any of his lights, they can cause serious eye and neurological damage...you can either buy a bright-white colored, Reptile Specialty Basking Bulb, or you can buy a regular, Halogen Indoor Flood Bulb, the Par38 kind that you can buy at Lowes, Home Depot, Tractor Supply, etc. It obviously needs to be lower wattage than the bulb you have now..
You also must spend $10 on a Digital Probe Thermometer, because right now you have no way at all to measure his Basking Spot Surface Temp...They cost $10 at any Petco or Petsmart, and have a Probe on a wire that you can place directly on his Basking Spot/platform, let lay there for at least 20-30 minutes, then read. This is the only way to get a Basking Spot Surface Temp, which needs to be between 105-110 degrees, and THEN the surrounding Hot Side Air Temp needs to be between 88-93 degrees, right now it's about 10 or more degrees too hot...so that's a major issue....
The second major issue is the UVB light, and this is a very serious issue, as he will not have any appetite, nor would he be able to absorb any nutrition from his food even if he was eating, nor from his supplements....Compact and Coil bulb UVB lights are just far too weak for Desert Reptiles, specifically Bearded Dragons, and they only cause severe Calcium Deficiency and MBD. Then it's on top of a mesh lid, which is blocking almost half of the UVB light emitted by the already far-too-weak UVB bulb, so the bottom line is that he's getting pretty much no UVB or UVA light right now, nor has he since he has been under that UVB light...
Bearded Dragons need a long, fluorescent UVB tube and matching tube fixture with a reflector. It's not optional. There are two different strengths of UVB tubes: the much weaker T8, and the much stronger T5...I highly recommend the stronger T5 UVB tube, as it is not only much, much better for him, but it will save you money as it only needs replaced once a year, the T8 tubes must be replaced every 6 months...
The weaker T8 UVB tubes cannot sit on top of the mesh lid either, they aren't strong enough to penetrate adequate UVB or UVA light to your dragon on the other side of the mesh. They have to be strapped to the underside of the mesh using long zip ties, wire, twine, shoelaces, etc. They also must be within at least 6" of his basking spot/platform, and replaced every 6 months, as they have a very fast UVB decay rate, and at 6 months they no longer emit any UVB light.
In contrast, the much stronger T5 UVB tubes are good for 12 months before needing replaced, and are strong enough to sit on top of the mesh lid, just as long as they are within 10-11" of his basking spot/platform. This is what most experienced Beardie owners and Breeders use, and we have no issues like this at all because of using the correct UVB lights...It's not your fault, the pet shop employees certainly have no idea what they're talking about (usually), and if you bought any type of Bearded Dragon "Kit" then that's why you got all the wrong stuff...but the UVB tube is crucial.
The best place to buy a UVB tube and tube fixture is on Amazon.com, it's the cheapest place and has fast, free shipping. T5 UVB tubes are hard to find in pet shops, most tubes are only the weaker T8 tubes, but even if you find a T5 tube in a pet shop it will cost you a fortune.
You want to buy either a Reptisun 10.0 or an Aracadia brand UVB tube (DO NOT BUY A REPTISUN 5.0 TUBE, ONLY 10.0, AS 5.0 ARE ONLY 5% UVB LIGHT, FOR TROPICAL REPTILES)...
A 22" Reptisun 10.0 T5HO UVB tube costs about $24 on Amazon.com shipped, while they also sell a 24" T5-rated (good for up to 24 watts) tube fixture that has a reflector included for around $28 shipped. So for around $50 you can buy one of the best UVB tubes available for him..
Please avoid the UVB tube brands Zilla, All Living Things, ReptileOne, Trixie, and pretty much any others besides Reptisun 10.0 and Arcadia, as these other brands all emit harmful light rays that always seem to cause eye damage, blindness, and neurological damage...
EllenD":217rmxov said:
Thank you Ellen so much for all that information!I feel really bad,I should of looked more into his terrarium equipment.We will going to go to our local repile store to see if they have the items you and Drache613 have reccomended to get it to him asap if not order it online.I'm just worried to leave him alone for a while. I just wanted to update you guys as well. We gave him another bath and he did poop a yellow mucus like stool. I will provide pictures.
Here he is after his bath.he is perched up but his eyes still look droopy
The poop is a start, that's good, but he looks very dehydrated and lethargic, due to both the Hot Side temperatures being far too hot, and then the weak UVB light. If you go to either Petco or Petsmart you will find the Reptisun 10.0 T8 tube, which will cost you about $37.99 without a fixture for it, and that's it as far as adequate UVB tubes. Again, if you buy a T8 tube, even the Reptisun 10.0, it will need to be strapped to the underside of the mesh lid and within at least 6" of his basking spot/platform. That's why I suggest just ordering the much better Reptisun 10.0 T5HO and a T5 fixture for it with a reflector on Amazon. It the meantime you can just buy a clamp lamp for the compact UVB bulb at Walmart for $6 and just remove the mesh lid entirely. That will release some of the heat, and he'll get at least a little UVB/UVA light while you wait for the T5 tube and fixture to arrive.
If you happen to see a Reptisun "package deal" that comes with both a T5 UVB tube and a hood for it for around $60 or so, DO NOT BUY IT, IT IS A 5.0 T5HO TUBE THAT IT COMES WITH, NOT A 10.0!!! Just an FYI, as that seems to always be the only T5HO UVB tube found at Petsmart I believe, and people think it's a great deal, but it's only a 5% UVB tube and has to be far too close to the dragon to be safe...it must be a 10.0 T5 UVB tube, usually you can find them at smaller, independent pet and reptile shops, but not at Petco or Petsmart...you can however buy the $10 Digital Probe Thermometer and a bright-white colored Basking Bulb, as well as a large tank...ZooMed makes a bright-white color basking bulb called the "Intense Basking Spot" or something similar, in a white and black box that is a good bulb...YOU NEVER WANT ANY COLORED BULBS FOR A DRAGON, NOT BLUE, RED, PURPLE, GREEN, ETC...ONLY WHITE!
Petco also sells a 40 Gallon Breeder tank made by Aqueon for $50, but it doesn't come with any type of lid at all. I believe a 40 Gallon Breeder with a special mesh lid costs about $120 at Petco, Sometimes you can find them very cheaply on Craiglist, that's how I've acquired all of the tanks I have, and I build my own larger enclosure, you save a fortune.
If you happen to see a Reptisun "package deal" that comes with both a T5 UVB tube and a hood for it for around $60 or so, DO NOT BUY IT, IT IS A 5.0 T5HO TUBE THAT IT COMES WITH, NOT A 10.0!!! Just an FYI, as that seems to always be the only T5HO UVB tube found at Petsmart I believe, and people think it's a great deal, but it's only a 5% UVB tube and has to be far too close to the dragon to be safe...it must be a 10.0 T5 UVB tube, usually you can find them at smaller, independent pet and reptile shops, but not at Petco or Petsmart...you can however buy the $10 Digital Probe Thermometer and a bright-white colored Basking Bulb, as well as a large tank...ZooMed makes a bright-white color basking bulb called the "Intense Basking Spot" or something similar, in a white and black box that is a good bulb...YOU NEVER WANT ANY COLORED BULBS FOR A DRAGON, NOT BLUE, RED, PURPLE, GREEN, ETC...ONLY WHITE!
Petco also sells a 40 Gallon Breeder tank made by Aqueon for $50, but it doesn't come with any type of lid at all. I believe a 40 Gallon Breeder with a special mesh lid costs about $120 at Petco, Sometimes you can find them very cheaply on Craiglist, that's how I've acquired all of the tanks I have, and I build my own larger enclosure, you save a fortune.
I forgot, you will want to start offering her water dropped on her snout from an eye dropper or an oral syringe. Wait for her to lick them off, then drip again, lick, drip, etc. until she stops licking them off. She's most likely very dehydrated due to the temperatures, her eyes look like she is very, very dehydrated...you may want to pick up a bottle of unflavored Pedialyte or the Walmart or whatever store generic version, and put that in the fridge until it's cold, and offer her that in addition to just the water, go back and forth between the two, and do this several times throughout the day, each day. Bringing that Hot Side Ambient Temp down from 100-104 to the 88-93 max range will help her immensely, remember, that's the temp you are reading on the stick-on thermometer, that's the Hot Side Ambient Temp, or the Air temperature that surrounds her basking spot. 93 degrees is a max for that temp...
LOL, I just noticed that you already have the exact type of basking bulb I recommended, it's just way too high a wattage for a 10 gallon tank, for reference a 40 gallon breeder tank usually takes a 100 watt basking bulb over the hot side of the tank to achieve adequate temps, so that's just how hot it is in her tank right now..I'd say a 75 watt max, maybe even a 65 watt halogen indoor flood bulb (a very common wattage of halogen indoor flood bulb, available at Walmart, Tractor Supply, Home Depot, Lowes, and even at any Dollar Tree, they sell a 65 watt Par38 Indoor Flood Bulb, that's probably what you want, a 100 watt is far too hot, unless you do go and buy her a 40 gallon Breeder tank now, then you probably already have the correct Basking Bulb for that tank)
Update: We got him a 40 gallon tank and have arranged his things.
When we got home he was just laying down not moving . He would move his head to check but that's about it.We gave him another bath and he pooped but it was all liquid. i will insert pictures. he seems more himself after a bath he moves around but then goes back to lying down.We got him pedialyte and will wait till its cold to give him to drink.We have been giving him water until he stops drinking.
This was his stool:
http://s207.photobucket.com/user/sandravl_1992/media/20180203_151519_zpsjy1r4aut.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
When we got home he was just laying down not moving . He would move his head to check but that's about it.We gave him another bath and he pooped but it was all liquid. i will insert pictures. he seems more himself after a bath he moves around but then goes back to lying down.We got him pedialyte and will wait till its cold to give him to drink.We have been giving him water until he stops drinking.
This was his stool:
http://s207.photobucket.com/user/sandravl_1992/media/20180203_151519_zpsjy1r4aut.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
Well he's very dehydrated and overheated, and it's quite possible that he's suffering from heat exhaustion as well, that's a ton of heat for a 10 gallon tank...Did you get the Digital Probe Thermometer? I'm sure you got the tank set up alright, the 100 watt basking bulb is probably going to work perfectly for the 40 gallon breeder tank, so when you get it set up over the Hot Side of the tank and his basking spot/platform underneath it, let it on for about an hour, then put the probe right on the basking spot, and you have to wait about 20-30 minutes to read the probe temperature, and you must wait 20-30 minutes each time before you read the temp, so that the Probe can reach the actual temperature. You can also use the Probe to measure both the Hot and Cool Side Ambient (air) temperatures, you do this by putting the suction cup that comes with the Probe Thermometer on the wire, just below the Probe. Then stick the suction cup to the glass on the front of the tank on the Hot Side, about 2" above the floor of the tank. Wait 20-30 minutes, then read the temp. Then just move the Probe to the glass on the front of the tank on the Cool Side, about 2" above the floor, wait 20-30 minutes, then read the temp. The 100 watt basking bulb should be adequate.
Keep offering him water and pedialyte on his snout several times a day, he's most likely extremely lethargic and dehydrated...
Also, don't expect a lot of energy until you get him under a proper UVB tube, as that compact UVB bulb that you have, even under the mesh lid, is not going to provide anywhere close to the UVB/UVA light that he needs...
Keep offering him water and pedialyte on his snout several times a day, he's most likely extremely lethargic and dehydrated...
Also, don't expect a lot of energy until you get him under a proper UVB tube, as that compact UVB bulb that you have, even under the mesh lid, is not going to provide anywhere close to the UVB/UVA light that he needs...
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Lighting Beginner Guide to Bearded Dragon LightingA basic lighting setup for any bearded dragon.
- Shinryu
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Lighting Introduction to UV LightingMake a more educated purchase on your next UVB light.
- Shinryu
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General Care Bearded Dragons - Care SheetAn all-in-one guide to caring for your bearded dragons.
- Shinryu
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Latest profile posts
I just walked into my room and instead of looking at me, Swordtail's eyes darted directly to the ice cream drumstick I'm holding
What is a quick way to warm up a cold beardie? His heating element went out overnight and now he's very cold.