Constipated beardie?Something more?Very Worried

EllenD":760krdgd said:

Well he's very dehydrated and overheated, and it's quite possible that he's suffering from heat exhaustion as well, that's a ton of heat for a 10 gallon tank...Did you get the Digital Probe Thermometer? I'm sure you got the tank set up alright, the 100 watt basking bulb is probably going to work perfectly for the 40 gallon breeder tank, so when you get it set up over the Hot Side of the tank and his basking spot/platform underneath it, let it on for about an hour, then put the probe right on the basking spot, and you have to wait about 20-30 minutes to read the probe temperature, and you must wait 20-30 minutes each time before you read the temp, so that the Probe can reach the actual temperature. You can also use the Probe to measure both the Hot and Cool Side Ambient (air) temperatures, you do this by putting the suction cup that comes with the Probe Thermometer on the wire, just below the Probe. Then stick the suction cup to the glass on the front of the tank on the Hot Side, about 2" above the floor of the tank. Wait 20-30 minutes, then read the temp. Then just move the Probe to the glass on the front of the tank on the Cool Side, about 2" above the floor, wait 20-30 minutes, then read the temp. The 100 watt basking bulb should be adequate.

Keep offering him water and pedialyte on his snout several times a day, he's most likely extremely lethargic and dehydrated...

Also, don't expect a lot of energy until you get him under a proper UVB tube, as that compact UVB bulb that you have, even under the mesh lid, is not going to provide anywhere close to the UVB/UVA light that he needs...

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EllenD":2n67s7nc said:

The only other comment I can make is to move the UVB tube fixture more towards the middle of the tank and away from the back wall of the tank, and then make sure the basking spot is underneath both the tube and the basking bulb in the Hot Side of the tank. You don't want to lose any of the UVB light into the back wall of the tank, and you want it kind of "sharing" the top of the Hot Side of the tank with the bright-white colored Basking Bulb. That's about it, it looks amazing! He'll be happy, he actually looks happier already, lol!

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Quick question. Should I start feeding him crickets so he doesn't starve or is there other soft food for him to eat to give him some nutrients or strength while he is in this state?

EllenD":1f1hkjnc said:

I'd be offering him the crickets as usual, he just needs some good UVB light, calcium, fluids, and a couple of days, that's it. The more he eats, the more energy he'll have, etc. And the more UVB/UVA he absorbs, the more he'll eat...there's no reason here to not feed him normally, there's no sign of Gout or any other issues, he just wasn't getting adequate UVB/UVA light and his temps were too high, which dehydrated him. This should be an easy recovery, knock on wood there are no other issues going on...

How's he doing toady?

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EllenD":3e4qtwlj said:

He is probably going to suffer from a bit of relocation stress now too, realize he's suddenly in a new tank that is HUGE compared to his last one, so think of this like you just brought him home again. You've now got an awesome set-up with great lighting and temps, so he just has to settle in again. Just keep offering him water on his snout several times a day, and do the same with the crickets.

Make sure that you only put 1-2 crickets in his tank at a time, too many will overwhelm small babies and they tend to freak out. Also, be sure that the crickets are smaller than the space between his eyes, as if they are larger they can not only scare him, but choke him and cause an impaction. But just put 1 in at a time, and if he doesn't eat it then take it out because crickets tend to hide and then at night they come out and bite them while they sleep. You may want to find some small BSFL/Phoenix Worms or even some small dubia roaches, or maybe some wax worms. Wax worms are only treat insects that should be given only a few per week, but in this case he may be more inclined to eat a wiggly little worm than a cricket that he has to hunt. You can also try AHBD's trick of putting 1-2 crickets in a container of calcium, shaking them up a bit so that they are stunned and dizzy, and then putting them right in front of him. They'll be moving but not be jumping away quickly, and he may gain some confidence that way.

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EddieMaher":33fndjx4 said:

Order some Dubia Roaches off the internet. They are much better than crickets all around, no smell, no noise, and live much longer. Each feeding I place around 20 roaches in a feeding bowl. My dragon has gotten used to this and rushes to the bowl each time. No roaches escape and walk around the tank unless they climb out on the lizard and makes it much easier to remove once hes done. I hated leaving insects in his tank after each feeding.

https://www.amazon.com/Dubia-Roaches-1000-Small/dp/B008CQLWDS/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1517866360&sr=8-16&keywords=dubia+roaches

1000/$44.00 = $.04 each is much better than crickets at $.13 and half die in a week.

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