Very active but not eating.

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Toro

Member
In the last week my beardie has stopped eating. I can get her to lick her meal worms and lettuce and apple but I cannot get her to eat them. She is very active running around her cage and has lost .8 grams. She has also been rubbing her face on the glass and has rubbed the ridge of her mouth that she has a thin black scab there. The scab does not seem to hurt or bother her, but concerns me. She has been passing urate often, every day to every other day, I soak her often.. But no stool and i'm guessing it's due to no food intake. I don't think she has a blockage if shes still passing healthy urate. I heard raw honey can be helpful in healing her mouth and I may try that today. But why isn't she eating? I don't want her to lose anymore weight..
 

VenusAndSaturn

Sub-Adult Member
Can you go over her setup,

Is her UVB a exo terra, zoomed/reptisun, all living things, or zilla brand?
Is it a compact/coil bulb, a MVB, or a tube light?
How old is the UVB bulb?
If tube light is it a T5 or a t8?
If tube light is it a 5.0 or a 10.0, or a 12% or 14%?
Is it mounted underneath the screen or on top.
How many watts is it?
How many inches is it from the basking spot?

What is her basking spot?
What is her warm side?
What is her cool side?
How are you monitoring these temps, temp gun/digital temp gauge/plastic gauge?

Do you use bulbs at night?
If so are they colored or produce only heat?
What type of basking light does he have?

What sized tank does she have?
How old is she?
How big is she head to tail?
How much does she weigh?
What are you feeding her for insects? (just mealworms or other bugs as well?)
How many feedings are you trying to give him?
How much do you put in his tank per feeding?
What are you feeding him for salad?
What supplements are you dusting with?
How many times a week are you dusting?
What substrate/flooring/bedding does he have?
 

Toro

Member
Original Poster
UVB 100 is Exo Terra, Compact/coil bulb, Bulb is 2 months old, mounted on top of screen, 26-w, foot from basking spot (is on cool side of cage/ no room for another light on warm side).

Basking is 94
Warm side is 90
Cool side is 80-82
I have plastic gauge and digital temp gauge.

I use an infrared basking night light, 100 watts
Basking light is 100 watts

Tank is 67 gallon
She is 2.5 years old
17 inches long
5.8 grams (she usually weighs around 6.4)
Feeding mainly meal worms with live crickets
I feed insects once a day and replace veggies twice
I put a little less than a tablespoon of meal worms in at a time ( this is what she was eating and maintaining her weight with)
Salad is leafy green lettuce with zucchini and apple
I use a calcium supplement and dust 4-5 times a week pen her last vet visit
Carpet bedding, I often use towels or placemats that cant string or let her nails get pulled.
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

Are you sure on the weight, 5.8 grams could not be correct, it is way too light.
Do you have pictures you could post of her & the tank setup?
The Reptiglo/Exoterra compact/coil lights are not really very good quality & do
not emit enough UVB for them. Is this a new light, or how long have you been using
this particular light? I would recommend upgrading to a Reptisun 10 tube bulb, or a
T5 high output tube from the Reptisun 10 brand or the Arcadia D3 12 or 14% T5 tube.
Either one of those lights would be an excellent upgrade for her.
The basking temperatures should be a bit higher, maybe to 100, since she is an adult
you wont have to go to 110. A range from 95 to 105F for adults is recommended.

Tracie
 

EllenD

Gray-bearded Member
I just caught that 5.8 grams too, that's about the weight of a new hatchling, so I think you're reading the scale in the wrong units.

I agree with Tracie completely, most likely the reason she is losing her appetite is due to her getting pretty much no UVB and/or UVA light at all. Your temps are a bit off, I'd try to get her Basking Spot Surface Temperature at least to 100 or so, as too cool a Basking Spot Surface Temp can also cause them to lose appetite, but it actually more often causes digestion issues and bowel impactions because an adult dragon needs a Basking Spot Surface Temp between 100-105 degrees F in order to properly digest their food, while the surrounding Hot Side Ambient (air) Temperature should be between 88-93 degrees, and the Cool Side Ambient (air) Temperature between 75-80 degrees max...So I'd try to lower the Basking Bulb down a few inches or raise the Basking Spot/Platform up towards the light...

The main issue is the compact/coil UVB bulb, it's far too weak for a Bearded Dragon or any Desert Reptile, and then the mesh lid is also blocking about 40% or so of the already far too weak UVB light. Dragons need 13-14 hours every day of strong, adequate UVB and UVA light, and it's very difficult, if not impossible, to achieve this with a compact or coil UVB light. As Tracie already said, Beardies need a long, fluorescent UVB tube inside a long, fluorescent UVB tube fixture that has a metal reflector behind the UVB tube, so that it reflects the UVB light throughout the tank. And you also have a large tank, so that is going to be very important. Your main goal with a Dragon's lighting is to replicate natural sunlight as closely as possible over the Hot Side of her tank, directly over her Basking Spot/Platform, and you do this by putting a bright-white colored Basking Bulb over the Hot Side of the tank, right alongside a long, high-wattage, fluorescent UVB tube, so that both lights are sharing the top of the Hot Side of the tank, with her Basking Spot/Platform positioned directly underneath both lights so she gets both while she is basking. Both of these lights need to be on for at least 13-14 hours every single day.

There are 2 different strengths of long, fluorescent UVB tubes, the much weaker and more commonly found in pet shops T8 UVB tube, and then the much stronger T5 strength UVB tubes, which are much more appropriate for Bearded Dragons, especially one that is already starting to exhibit the signs and symptoms of a calcium deficiency and the start of Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) as your dragon is. So ordering a long, T5 strength UVB tube and a long, T5-rated tube fixture with a reflector included for it is what you need to do, this is not optional, as she's only going to get worse and worse. A lot of people don't realize that when a Bearded Dragon develops a Calcium Deficiency it is not usually because they are not eating or taking in enough calcium at all; it's rather due to them not getting adequate UVB light, which is what allows their bodies to be able to absorb, process, and use the calcium they take in from their food and their calcium supplements. Without adequate UVB light every day they simply excrete the calcium out in their bowel movements. This is why I say that buying her an adequate UVB tube is not optional, she'll only continue to get worse and worse without one.

The differences between the weaker T8 UVB tubes and the much stronger T5 UVB tubes are as follows:

#1) Weaker T8 UVB tubes must be mounted UNDERNEATH THE MESH LID TO THE TANK by strapping the entire tube fixture to the underside of the mesh lid on the Hot Side of the tank, by using either long, plastic zip/cable ties, wire, twine, shoelaces, etc. The much stronger T5 UVB tubes are strong enough to sit on top of the mesh lids and still penetrate adequate UVB/UVA light to your Dragon on the other side of the mesh.

#2) Weaker T8 UVB tubes must be at least within 6" of your Dragon's basking spot/platform, while the much stronger T5 UVB tubes must be within at least 10-11" of their basking spot/platform, so the T5 UVB tubes give you a lot more leeway if you have a taller tank.

#3) You'll save money buying a much stronger T5 UVB tube, as they have a much slower UVB light decay-rate than the weaker T8 tubes. The weaker T8 UVB tubes must be replaced once every 6 months at a maximum, as at 6 months old they will have stopped emitting any adequate UVB light at all, they will not be burnt-out and will still emit "light", but no UVB light. The much stronger T5 UVB tubes must be replaced every 10-12 months at a maximum time period, as they have a much slower UVB light decay-rate, and will continue to emit adequate UVB light to your Dragon until they are between 10-12 months old. So you will save a lot of money over time only having to replace a T5 UVB tube yearly as opposed to at least every 6 months.

*****The other issue with many of the T8 UVB tubes that you find in the major pet stores like Petco and Petsmart is that many of the common brands who make them are all manufactured in the same manufacturing plant in China, which mass-produces reptile lighting in bulk cheaply, and they are all simply re-branded on the assembly line. As a result of the manufacturing process (we think this is the reason) they all end up emitting very harmful light rays that always seem to end up causing severe eye damage, blindness, and neurological issues such as tremors, seizures, fits, flipping over on their backs constantly, etc. We've had 3 or 4 cases of this happening with the Zilla Desert 50 T8 UVB tubes alone on this forum in the past 3 or 4 months, and as soon as the Zilla UVB tube was removed from the tank and replaced with an appropriate, safe, high-quality brand of UVB tube, the eye damage and neurological issues stopped...The list of dangerous brands of UVB tubes is a long one, but the most common brands that are regularly purchased in the US, the UK, and Australia include Zilla (the new house-brand for Petco), All Living Things (the house-brand for Petsmart), ReptileOne, and the German manufactured company Trixie (who mass-produces not only tons and tons of reptile lights, but mass produces literally every single pet product for every single pet you could think of). So when you see that Zilla brand 18" T8 Desert 50 UVB tube package deal for $40 that includes both an 18" T8 UVB tube and a fixture for it with a reflector, just say no, ESPECIALLY CONSIDERING THAT FOR UNDER $60 YOU CAN ORDER A 22" REPTISUN 10.0 T5HO UVB TUBE AND A 24" T5-RATED TUBE FIXTURE WITH A REFLECTOR ON AMAZON.COM!!!

The two brands that not only provide adequate UVB light for Beardies but also emit no harmful light rays and cause no health issues at all, and that are both used by most-all experienced Beardie owners and breeders are Reptisun 10.0 (NOT REPTISUN 5.0) and Arcadia. Arcadia is made in the UK and is readily available in Europe and the US, and the Reptisun 10.0 tubes are readily available in the US and Austraila. Again, you can order a 22" Reptisun 10.0 T5HO UVB tube on Amazon.com for about $24 shipped at any given time, and Amazon.com also sells one particular 24" tube fixture for it that is both rated for a T5 UVB tube up to 24 watts, which the 22" Reptisun 10.0 T5HO UVB tube is, but it also INCLUDES A REFLECTOR INSIDE IT for about $28. They do sell one or two cheaper 24" T5 tube fixtures for between $18 and $25, but they DO NOT INCLUDE A REFLECTOR, SO YOU HAVE TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU'RE CHOOSING THE T5 TUBE FIXTURE THAT SAYS IT INCLUDES A REFLECTOR.

So the bottom line is that you need to order/purchase a new UVB tube and tube fixture for your dragon ASAP, this is the only way she is going to get any better, and you're best to order a T5-strength UVB tube that is at least a 10% (10.0) or higher UVB tube. The 24" Arcadia T5 UVB tube is the other fantastic quality tube that can be purchased for a bit more on Amazon.com, not much more, and it will also work with the very same 24" T5-rated tube fixture that includes a reflector for $28 on Amazon.com...Of course you can always spend more money and buy a longer T5 UVB tube and fixture (as long as you get one that is at least 22"/24" long you're fine), or you can buy a more expensive T5-rated tube fixture than the $28 one, but that's the cheapest combo I've found for both a 22" long Reptisun 10.0 T5HO UVB tube and a 24" T5-rated tube fixture with a reflector, with shipping included...

If you have any questions about what you need to buy, feel free to PM me any time...
 
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