Smelly Liquid Squeezed Out?

misaelc01":1xbwh376 said:

I called the vet and of course they wanted for me to come in. But I thought to call a reptarium because they care for tons of reptiles every day. They said that when their 2 year old beardies get constipated it can even let for a week before they give them mineral oil and they clear up in about 2 hours. I’m taking that advice and trying it out. Oh and Coco had some type of excrement come out.

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That looks like vomit to me .... is very serious when an impacted reptile brings up the contents of it's stomach as they can aspirate some of the liquid and solids (VERY BAD).

If it's only whites and liquid --- this is bad too.

I use olive oil for my lizards, my full grown bluetongues are rarely impacted , sometimes my beardies are slightly impacted or simply holding onto the poo (Peppa regularly goes for 5 - 8 days and has gone 13 days between poos, in her case she's just got a slow metabolism , and I don't intervene until she's gone 7 days , then she gets 0.4 ml olive oil by syringe given slowly - she likes the taste so it's not hard giving her the olive oil. Generally this works the trick in about 2 -3 days.
Did this study on my dragons : viewtopic.php?f=6&t=232446

If no poo then , it's another dose , and maybe a luke warm bath and splash , she loves her bath, with some tummy rubs.

I think perhaps the decision to not have a vet check your girl , at least take xrays and do ultra sounds , is IMO a bad one , if she's sicking up , it's getting close to becoming a very serious health issue, and may soon become a systemic infection (v-BAD).

Careful with advise from commercial zoos and pet shops .... often is very bad advise.
Hasn't this been going on for considerably longer than 1 week ? a matter of weeks ?

I've noted from your images that you have soil or coco fibres for her substrate , this may be OK for skinks , BUT IS LETHAL to tasty feely bearded dragons because they regularly ingest it when eating and catching insects and just tastetesting and it's indigestible and can accumulate in the GIT especially for hatchlings and juveniles (there is sharp hair bend in the GIT which a bottleneck and prone to blockage) , I STRONGLY RECOMMEND AND ADVISE that remove the particulate / fibrous indigestible substate as a matter of URGENTLY and lay either loosely laid floor or wall tiles or simply lay a couple layers of kitchen grade absorbent paper towels.
The substrate may well be cause of this impaction (Xrays are necessary unfortunately to assess how much has been ingested).

That's not vomit. When a beardie vomits,it slings it's head from side to side so that bits of food matter go everywhere. And I agree with you + Cooper, don't use mineral oil, use olive or veg. oil. Honey is even better, along with hydration, any of the baby foods we mentioned [ use the kind no salt or broth in any of it ] canned pumpkin.

A vet would probably dose her with Enulose/Lactulose. And some vets would want to do an enema which has already been advised against. So other than that the only thing they could do would be to give her the synthetic laxatives, Enulose or Lactulose [ or other brand ] But it's the O.P.;s decision.

Since she is starting to pass some stool now I think the rest should be coming out as well. And definitely get rid of any loos substrate if she has any in her tank. Best wishes for Coco to get this worked out soon !

Her floor is coconut fibers which pass through their digestive system if they ingest it. I’ve done research and she loves digging around in it. I did give her about 2 drops of mineral oil last night (it was specifically a laxative) and a bath earlier today. She seems to be doing fine although she still has not pooped. Replying to the user who asked, it’s been about 5 days but since she doesn’t have an appetite either I’ve been told she’s in brummation. Also on a completely different topic, I’ve read that Dubia Roaches are a super food for beardies. Opinions?

Hello,

I would definitely not let her go into brumation, she may not make it out alive if she is very
ill. How is she doing today?
The loose substrate usually isn't a good idea because it has a tendency to cause impactions.
How did the vet visit go today?

Tracie

misaelc01":3oqvbcjz said:

Her floor is coconut fibers which pass through their digestive system if they ingest it. I’ve done research and she loves digging around in it. I did give her about 2 drops of mineral oil last night (it was specifically a laxative) and a bath earlier today. She seems to be doing fine although she still has not pooped. Replying to the user who asked, it’s been about 5 days but since she doesn’t have an appetite either I’ve been told she’s in brummation. Also on a completely different topic, I’ve read that Dubia Roaches are a super food for beardies. Opinions?

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5 DAYS is not really an issue .... i thought this had been going on for over 2 weeks .... see my data for Peppa and Toothless .

Peppa has a mean interval between poos of 6 days. And one standard deviation gives an interval for her of 3 days to 10 days. So I don't intervene at all unless she's gone more than 7 days - give he 0.4 ml olive oil - and she gets an escalation to a bath + 0.4ml olive oil at 10 days.

LIVE gut loaded and calcium dusted roaches are an excellent feeder for her , as are LIVE locusts and LIVE crickets.
Silkworms are hard to beat as a daily feeder insect IMO .... 1 large silkworm is equivalent to 4-6 large crickets.

BUT not for A dragons who is severely impacted - NO HARD EXOSKELETONED INSECTS OR SOLIDS UNTIL YOU GET A VET'S CLEARANCE <== and impactions of their GIT ENTIRELY CLEARED as their hard exoskeletons will only add to her impaction/blockage/s.
I've found from experience that adding a large silkworm or two per day to an adult dragons diet works wonders in the pooing department ... i think the mulberry leaves / chow in the worm's gut have a laxative effect much like licorice does for people . IF she is over 300g she can handle a large silkworm per + her regular LIVE INSECTS (or BUGPIE SLURRY/PASTE).

Exactly what oil did you use ?

I RECOMMEND 0.3-0.4 ml olive oil by syringe , is nice tasting , nutritious and works for mild impactions.

I’ve seen that dubia roaches are really easy to breed. But are they as nutritious as they say?

Drache613":1ml1nvwn said:

Hello,

I would definitely not let her go into brumation, she may not make it out alive if she is very
ill. How is she doing today?
The loose substrate usually isn't a good idea because it has a tendency to cause impactions.
How did the vet visit go today?

Tracie

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She is well today and we decided to try the oil instead of the animal ER. I’m waiting at least 2 days for results. And she hasn’t gone digging for about 2 weeks

misaelc01":2sh4m1ub said:

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I'd be very cautious using that stuff for an impacted reptile ....

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0002961038912000

I gave her 2 drops

misaelc01":oqj12mms said:

I’ve seen that dubia roaches are really easy to breed. But are they as nutritious as they say?

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I know people who breed their own roaches (it's woodies here in Australia) and their own crickets .

My preference is crickets as my pet lizards' staple feeder insects.

I breed my own silkworms (mostly) and have also bred mealworms (for the little wild skinks).

misaelc01":13lbxgil said:

I gave her 2 drops

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Was that on ACTUAL vet advise and just a guess on your part ?

My mom used to swear by castor oil (when I was kid in the 1960s) and boy did that stuff work worders at getting the poo moving , if you could actually get it past the tongue .... LOL

The reptarium caretaker said 2-3 drops. Btw it’s not like a random pet store I called. It’s a place called DFW Reptarium and they care for tons of reptiles. So I took their word for it and seeing how it goes.

misaelc01":1iq3z1p9 said:

The reptarium caretaker said 2-3 drops. Btw it’s not like a random pet store I called. It’s a place called DFW Reptarium and they care for tons of reptiles. So I took their word for it and seeing how it goes.

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Just visited their website : http://www.dfwreptarium.com/meet-the-crew , not one of them has any professional zoological or veterinary training at all , they are all just enthusiasts , and on their own site http://www.dfwreptarium.com/copy-of-exhibit-maintenance

For serious issues we suggest consulting with a licensed veterinarian who has experience with reptiles and amphibians.

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.... I would take that advise on board if I were you.
I would take any direct veterinary advise given by their staff with big grain of salt , it's likely to be poor or misinformed

I would never use something like that. It's not natural and potentially dangerous. Use regular olive oil and the baby food + canned pumpkin. How's Coco doing by the way ?