I'm sorry you got horrible advice, they sold you everything wrong, and didn't tell you to buy the most important thing that a Bearded Dragon needs to just survive, a long UVB tube.
Please get rid of both the blue and the red bulbs, Bearded Dragons see in full color, and the colored bulbs can not only hurt their eyes, but you're trying to replicate natural sunlight over the Hot Side of the tank, and you do this by putting a bright-white Basking Bulb (which is just a regular, Halogen bulb that is bright-white in color) right alongside a long, strong UVB tube in a matching length tube fixture.
You need at least a 20-gallon LONG tank in order to establish a the temperature gradient that they need. You must have a distinct Hot Side that has an Ambient (air) Temp between 88-93 degrees and that contains within it his Basking Spot/Platform, which must have a Surface Temperature between 105-110 degrees....Then the opposite Cool Side of the tank must have an Ambient (air) Temperature between 75-80 degrees. These are all the maximum temps for these 3 temperature zones. This is why a 5 gallon tank is not nearly adequate. At 6 months old he'll need a minimum of a 40 Gallon Breeder Tank (not a regular 40 gallon aquarium tank, the Breeder tanks are longer, wider, and not as tall as the regular aquarium tanks). I'd just buy a 40 Gallon Breeder Tank now instead of buying a 20 Gallon LONG tank and then having to upgrade again at 6 months old.
You need either a $10 Digital Probe Thermometer (you cannot measure the Basking Spot Surface Temperature with any type of stick-on thermometer, which are totally inaccurate and usually off by between 10-20 degrees anyway) or an infrared temperature gun. No stick-on thermometers.
The most important light is the long UVB tube with a matching fixture for it. But you also need to get it set up correctly according to which strength you buy. There are 2, the much weaker T8 strength and then the much more appropriate T5 strength. You usually have to order the T5 UVB tubes and the fixtures for them, which is better anyway because you'll save up to $100 on both the T5 UVB tube and the fixture if you order them on Amazon.com.
Here are the differences between a weaker T8 UVb tube and a much stronger T5 UVB tube:
#1) The T8 UVB tubes must be replaced once every 6 months, while the T5 UVB tubes must be replaced once every 12 months. These are the ages at which the UVb tubes stop emitting any
UVb light at all.
#2) The T8 UVB tube absolutely must be mounted inside the tank and underneath any type of mesh lid, as mesh lids block 40% of the
UVB light emitted by the UVB tube, and T8 tubes are far too weak to be able to emit adequate
UVb light to your dragon on the other side of a mesh lid. You have to poke holes in the mesh lid and strap the entire tube fixture to the underside of the mesh lid if you choose a T8 strength UVB tube. The T5 tubes can sit on top of the mesh lid.
#3) The T8 UVB tubes must be within at least 6" of your Dragon's Basking Spot/Platform, while the T5 UVb tubes must be within at least 11" of the Basking spot/platform.
You can order a 22" Reptisun 10.0 T5HO UVB Tube (NEVER ORDER A 5.0, ONLY A 10.0!!!) on Amazon.com for $24, and then a 24" T5-rated Tube Fixture with a Metal Reflector inside it (very, very crucial) for about $28 as a package deal, shipped. This would cost you around $100 or more in a pet shop, if you could even find a 10% T5 UVB tube in a pet shop, most all tubes they sell are T8 strength and horrible brands.
Do not buy the brands All Living Things (PetSmart's house-brand), Zilla, or Reptile One, they are all very, very weak T8 strength UVB tubes that are made in the same factory in China, and all 3 of these brands (along with many others) emit very harmful light rays that cause neurological damage, eye damage, and blindness. As AHBD already said, stick to the 2 brands he already mentioned: Reptisun 10. and Arcadia.
As for his basking bulb, it must be bright-white in color, and must be the correct wattage to get his Basking Spot Surface Temperature and the Hot Side Ambient (air) Temperature within the correct ranges I listed above. Most of us use regular Halogen Indoor Flood Bulbs, like the ones you buy at Lowes, Tractor Supply, or Home Depot. They are all bright-white in color and much cheaper than any basking bulbs you'll buy in a pet shop.
I can't instruct you on Basking bulb wattage because I don't know what size tank you're going to buy, but as a point of reference, most people that have a 40-gallon Breeder Tank use a 100 watt Halogen Indoor Flood Bulb over the Hot Side of the tank to achieve the 3 correct Temperature Ranges. Again, I'd just buy a 40-gallon Breeder tank now with a mesh lid, search Craigslist first, usually there are a tone of them on there with lids very cheap (completely disinfects any used tank and lid with very Hot Water and Bleach or Hibiclens).
*******Bearded Dragons come from the Australian Desert, which is Pitch-Black and very Cool at night. As such, in order for your dragon to sleep comfortably and soundly at night, it must be Pitch-Black with no lights on at all, and it also must be much cooler than his daytime temperatures. AS LONG AS HIS TANK IS AT LEAST 65 DEGREES AT NIGHT, WHICH IT PROBABLY IS, HE NEEDS ABSOLUTELY NO NIGHTTIME HEAT SOURCE AT ALL!!!! Your house would have to be around 60 degrees or colder in order for his tank to go below 65 degrees, so as a result most people need no nighttime heat source at all for their Dragons, I've never used one in 15 years and 4 dragons. If by chance you like to freeze yourself at night and you keep your house below 60 degrees, then you can buy a very low wattage CHE, like 10-20 watts, to use ONLY AT NIGHT. Remember, you are only trying to keep his nighttime temperature at 65 degrees, so any higher wattage CHE will cook him.
You should never have a CHE on during the daytime, you should have an adequate wattage bright-white colored Basking Bulb over the Hot Side of the tank that keeps the 3 temperature zones within the correct ranges. If your bright-white colored Basking Bulb does not get the temperature hot enough, then you need to go to a higher wattage bright-white colored Basking Bulb, as Bearded Dragons should get all of their light and heat during the day from a Bright white colored bulb that is above them...And just an FYI, UVB tubes do not emit much if any heat, it's negligible and will not effect the temps.
And those may be cricket bits, NEVER throw in more than 1-2 crickets into his tank at a time, they can overwhelm and stress him and he won't eat them. Feed him 1-2, wait for him to eat them, and then do another 1-2. Allow him to eat as many live insects as he wants to in a 10-15 minute period twice a day, once in the morning after both his Basking Bulb and his UVB tube have been on for at least an hour, and then again in the late afternoon to early evening, allowing both of the lights to stay on after he finishes eating for at least an hour. AND NEVER LEAVE ANY LIVE CRICKETS IN HIS TANK LOOSE EVER! They bite, cause infections, and even bite their eyeballs at night. AND AGAIN, LEAVE BOTH IS LIGHTS ON EVERY SINGLE DAY FOR AT LEAST 13-14 HOURS.
If you need a live staple insect that you can put in a bowl and leave, I suggest Phoenix Worms/BSFL/Nutrigrubs/Calciworms/Reptiworms (all the same thing). They are like large wax worms except they are one of the healthiest live insects you can feed a Bearded Dragon, low fat, high protein, and very high Calcium. I buy 1,000 size large (you can use size large BSFL for your baby because they are soft bodied) on
http://www.dubiaroaches.com every month for $23 shipped. You usually cannot buy them in pet shops, Petco sells 25 smalls for $4.25, LOL...Up until your baby is about a year or so old, he'll be eating between 40-60 live insects every single day, so most people order their live insects in bulk online monthly. It's just not affordable from pet shops.