Please help I think my beardies are sick!

This forum is for urgent health concerns, where your beardie seems very ill and you need immediate help!

Re: Please help I think my beardies are sick!

Postby EllenD » Fri Dec 15, 2017 9:56 am

I can assure you that most all of their issues are due to inadequate UVB light (prolonged). Without any adequate UVB light they cannot digest anything they eat properly, cannot absorb any nutrition, vitamins, minerals, etc., including calcium, from any of the food they eat or the supplements you're giving them, and they cannot use/process any of it.

I don't think this is a "disease" or illness at all, though it could very well be a bowel impaction or obstruction due to the inadequate lighting. It effects everything their bodies need to do to survive. Without at least 13-14 hours every day of adequate, strong UVB light they cannot live. I forget at this point what UVB lights you have, but if I recall they were very weak and questionable brands, like "Trixie"...no, 13" away from them or further is too far away for the best UVB light you can buy, even the extremely strong T5 UVB tubes must be within at least 11" of them unobstructed, so if you have those very weak UVB tubes any further away than 6" or they are obstructed/sitting on anything like a mesh lid or glass/plastic that is blocking the light, they are still getting zero UVB light.

Even the very good T8 UVB tubes, like Reptisun and Arcadia have to be within 6" of your dragon, at the furthest, so you absolutely must find a way to get those UVB lights you currently have within 6" of them, especially the sick guy.

Also, do you still have a bright white basking light over them all, especially the sick guy, and have a Basking Spot Temperature between 100-105 for him/all of them? The reason I'm asking is because dragons naturally absorb all of their heat from bright white light overhead, not underneath them, and you mentioned putting him in a plastic tub with a heat mat. It's fine to have a heat mat in there for him (make sure he's not laying directly on the mat but rather on a towel wrapped around the mat), but you still need to have BOTH the bright white basking bulb and the UVB light directly over his basking spot/platform, have the temperature of that Basking Spot/Platform between 100-105, even a bit higher while he's so sick, but a maximum temperature of 110, and have the UVB light within at least 6" of him, no further, and if you're using that "Trixie" brand UVB light or the other one (both if I recall are very weak T8 UVB tubes) I'd try to get it at 4"-5" if possible, but within 6" is the furthest away max that the UVB can be to just simply deliver the weakest UVB light from that tube to him.

This is crucial. If he does have an impaction (he can still pass small poops and have a bowel impaction/obstruction, especially if you're feeling a lump), keeping his Basking Spot Surface Temp at least at 105 degrees Fahrenheit is crucial, along with getting that weaker UVB tube within 6" at the furthest from him, because otherwise he will continue to not properly digest his food (which will just continue to add to the impaction), not absorb any nutrition from anything you feed him from neither food nor supplements, and will continue to get worse and worse. So try to find a plastic tub that is not as tall or a Basking Spot/Platform that is taller in order to get that UVB light within 6". And please be sure to have both that UVB light and a bright white basking bulb over him for at least 13 hours every day.

I don't know where you live in the world, but you need to buy an electrolyte replacement drink for him and give it to him by syringe. Whether it be Pedialyte or another electrolyte replacement drink for human babies (that's what Pedialyte is, it's not sold in any pet shops, it's sold in all grocery stores and department stores like Walmart here in the US, and is always located in the baby food aisles. Most all countries are going to sell an electrolyte replacement drink for babies/toddlers, or if not then you shouldn't have any problem finding sugar-free Gatorade, which is essentially the same thing, so get that if you can't find the Pedialyte or equivalent human baby electrolyte replacement drink. Give this to him straight from the syringe several times throughout the day. That vet should have given him a subcutaneous injection of an IV electrolyte solution, like Lactated Ringers, which would have perked him right up.

You can actually buy IV bags of Lactated Ringers solution here in the US without a prescription online or in medical supply stores very cheaply, I had to give my old pug a subcutaneous drip of Lactated Ringers solution twice a day (he had a bad urinary tract infection at age 13 and his kidneys started to shut down, and he displayed symptoms just like your dragon is). I was in graduate school and broke, and had already paid $695 for all of the blood work, x-rays, an ultrasound, and a catheter and urinalysis, so I couldn't afford another $2,000 to keep him in the Animal Hospital for another week so he could get Dialysis. So instead I brought him home and rigged up a "poor man's Dialysis" for him. He was dying and I had no choice, and a little medical training and education at that point, so I bought (4) 1 liter IV bags of Lactated Ringers solution, an IV starter kit with tubing and a drip line, and then a bunch of 18 gauge IV needles to hook to the IV line. I hung the IV bag up above us as I sat on the floor in my living room with him, I attached the IV drip line to the bag (they have a drip valve on them that either opens or closes the IV drip and can speed it up or slow it down), then I attached the 18 gauge IV needle to the drip line. Then I would sit in front of him, squeeze the big wrinkle of skin up on the back of his neck, right above his shoulder blades, and I would insert the big IV needle right under his skin and hold it there. I then would reach up and open up the IV drip all the way, full blast, and I would have to sit there with him, holding this big-ass needle that was inserted under his skin, until half the IV bag of Lactated Ringers solution would flow into him and under his skin. Once half the bag was in (took about 15 minutes a pop, the entire time him sitting there like a champ, not moving at all, while I held the largest bore IV needle I'd ever seen under his skin for 15 minutes). He'd get this huge lump/hump in his back, which was the fluid under his skin. After half the bag flowed in I shut off the drip and pulled the needle out and held pressure on the site with a piece of sterile gauze until it stopped bleeding. It would take about an hour for his body to absorb all of the fluids and the big lump to go down. I did this twice a day, every day for 2 weeks.

He went from losing weight, vomiting, having black diarrhea, being completely lethargic and disoriented, weak in his legs and falling over, blood in his urine, and I believe partially blind, and having the emergency vet at the Animal Hospital tell me to just euthanize him on the spot (I grabbed a prescription from him for amoxicillin, paid the bill, wrapped him up in his blanket, and took him home), to being 500% better the next day, to perfectly fine in 2 weeks. He lived another 2 years and passed away from old age, in his sleep, at the age of almost 16. I got almost 3 more years with him because of simple, inexpensive, subcutaneous fluids.

I'm telling you this story because this is what he needs most right now (in addition to adequate UVB light and temperatures), if he does have some type of infection or parasite, it's causing his kidneys to overload and fail. I also gave Jaeger an Amoxicillin tablet twice a day along with the fluids, but it wasn't the Antibiotic that saved his life, it was the subcutaneous fluids. And even a general vet can give your dragon subcutaneous fluid injections and easily instruct you on how to give them to him daily at home. We've had numerous members on here been given the fluids (Lactated Ringers solution is best in this situation) and the syringes with needles already attached, often the syringes are already filled and they show you how to give him the fluid injections at home, it's easy, right under the skin. I'd be calling around to any vets you can find ASAP and asking about this, he needs fluids/electrolytes daily, and you're not going to be able to get enough in him by mouth to help, nor can you find the correct solution he needs. He cannot wait for this vet to come back for the fluids, you can always take him to that vet when he comes back because he needs blood work done ASAP, but right now he needs subcutaneous fluids immediately to survive, along with the lighting and temperature adjustments I've already mentioned...
"Dance like nobody's watching..."
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Re: Please help I think my beardies are sick!

Postby erlabella » Fri Dec 15, 2017 10:54 am

EllenD wrote:I can assure you that most all of their issues are due to inadequate UVB light (prolonged). Without any adequate UVB light they cannot digest anything they eat properly, cannot absorb any nutrition, vitamins, minerals, etc., including calcium, from any of the food they eat or the supplements you're giving them, and they cannot use/process any of it.

I don't think this is a "disease" or illness at all, though it could very well be a bowel impaction or obstruction due to the inadequate lighting. It effects everything their bodies need to do to survive. Without at least 13-14 hours every day of adequate, strong UVB light they cannot live. I forget at this point what UVB lights you have, but if I recall they were very weak and questionable brands, like "Trixie"...no, 13" away from them or further is too far away for the best UVB light you can buy, even the extremely strong T5 UVB tubes must be within at least 11" of them unobstructed, so if you have those very weak UVB tubes any further away than 6" or they are obstructed/sitting on anything like a mesh lid or glass/plastic that is blocking the light, they are still getting zero UVB light.

Even the very good T8 UVB tubes, like Reptisun and Arcadia have to be within 6" of your dragon, at the furthest, so you absolutely must find a way to get those UVB lights you currently have within 6" of them, especially the sick guy.

Also, do you still have a bright white basking light over them all, especially the sick guy, and have a Basking Spot Temperature between 100-105 for him/all of them? The reason I'm asking is because dragons naturally absorb all of their heat from bright white light overhead, not underneath them, and you mentioned putting him in a plastic tub with a heat mat. It's fine to have a heat mat in there for him (make sure he's not laying directly on the mat but rather on a towel wrapped around the mat), but you still need to have BOTH the bright white basking bulb and the UVB light directly over his basking spot/platform, have the temperature of that Basking Spot/Platform between 100-105, even a bit higher while he's so sick, but a maximum temperature of 110, and have the UVB light within at least 6" of him, no further, and if you're using that "Trixie" brand UVB light or the other one (both if I recall are very weak T8 UVB tubes) I'd try to get it at 4"-5" if possible, but within 6" is the furthest away max that the UVB can be to just simply deliver the weakest UVB light from that tube to him.

This is crucial. If he does have an impaction (he can still pass small poops and have a bowel impaction/obstruction, especially if you're feeling a lump), keeping his Basking Spot Surface Temp at least at 105 degrees Fahrenheit is crucial, along with getting that weaker UVB tube within 6" at the furthest from him, because otherwise he will continue to not properly digest his food (which will just continue to add to the impaction), not absorb any nutrition from anything you feed him from neither food nor supplements, and will continue to get worse and worse. So try to find a plastic tub that is not as tall or a Basking Spot/Platform that is taller in order to get that UVB light within 6". And please be sure to have both that UVB light and a bright white basking bulb over him for at least 13 hours every day.

I don't know where you live in the world, but you need to buy an electrolyte replacement drink for him and give it to him by syringe. Whether it be Pedialyte or another electrolyte replacement drink for human babies (that's what Pedialyte is, it's not sold in any pet shops, it's sold in all grocery stores and department stores like Walmart here in the US, and is always located in the baby food aisles. Most all countries are going to sell an electrolyte replacement drink for babies/toddlers, or if not then you shouldn't have any problem finding sugar-free Gatorade, which is essentially the same thing, so get that if you can't find the Pedialyte or equivalent human baby electrolyte replacement drink. Give this to him straight from the syringe several times throughout the day. That vet should have given him a subcutaneous injection of an IV electrolyte solution, like Lactated Ringers, which would have perked him right up.

You can actually buy IV bags of Lactated Ringers solution here in the US without a prescription online or in medical supply stores very cheaply, I had to give my old pug a subcutaneous drip of Lactated Ringers solution twice a day (he had a bad urinary tract infection at age 13 and his kidneys started to shut down, and he displayed symptoms just like your dragon is). I was in graduate school and broke, and had already paid $695 for all of the blood work, x-rays, an ultrasound, and a catheter and urinalysis, so I couldn't afford another $2,000 to keep him in the Animal Hospital for another week so he could get Dialysis. So instead I brought him home and rigged up a "poor man's Dialysis" for him. He was dying and I had no choice, and a little medical training and education at that point, so I bought (4) 1 liter IV bags of Lactated Ringers solution, an IV starter kit with tubing and a drip line, and then a bunch of 18 gauge IV needles to hook to the IV line. I hung the IV bag up above us as I sat on the floor in my living room with him, I attached the IV drip line to the bag (they have a drip valve on them that either opens or closes the IV drip and can speed it up or slow it down), then I attached the 18 gauge IV needle to the drip line. Then I would sit in front of him, squeeze the big wrinkle of skin up on the back of his neck, right above his shoulder blades, and I would insert the big IV needle right under his skin and hold it there. I then would reach up and open up the IV drip all the way, full blast, and I would have to sit there with him, holding this big-ass needle that was inserted under his skin, until half the IV bag of Lactated Ringers solution would flow into him and under his skin. Once half the bag was in (took about 15 minutes a pop, the entire time him sitting there like a champ, not moving at all, while I held the largest bore IV needle I'd ever seen under his skin for 15 minutes). He'd get this huge lump/hump in his back, which was the fluid under his skin. After half the bag flowed in I shut off the drip and pulled the needle out and held pressure on the site with a piece of sterile gauze until it stopped bleeding. It would take about an hour for his body to absorb all of the fluids and the big lump to go down. I did this twice a day, every day for 2 weeks.

He went from losing weight, vomiting, having black diarrhea, being completely lethargic and disoriented, weak in his legs and falling over, blood in his urine, and I believe partially blind, and having the emergency vet at the Animal Hospital tell me to just euthanize him on the spot (I grabbed a prescription from him for amoxicillin, paid the bill, wrapped him up in his blanket, and took him home), to being 500% better the next day, to perfectly fine in 2 weeks. He lived another 2 years and passed away from old age, in his sleep, at the age of almost 16. I got almost 3 more years with him because of simple, inexpensive, subcutaneous fluids.

I'm telling you this story because this is what he needs most right now (in addition to adequate UVB light and temperatures), if he does have some type of infection or parasite, it's causing his kidneys to overload and fail. I also gave Jaeger an Amoxicillin tablet twice a day along with the fluids, but it wasn't the Antibiotic that saved his life, it was the subcutaneous fluids. And even a general vet can give your dragon subcutaneous fluid injections and easily instruct you on how to give them to him daily at home. We've had numerous members on here been given the fluids (Lactated Ringers solution is best in this situation) and the syringes with needles already attached, often the syringes are already filled and they show you how to give him the fluid injections at home, it's easy, right under the skin. I'd be calling around to any vets you can find ASAP and asking about this, he needs fluids/electrolytes daily, and you're not going to be able to get enough in him by mouth to help, nor can you find the correct solution he needs. He cannot wait for this vet to come back for the fluids, you can always take him to that vet when he comes back because he needs blood work done ASAP, but right now he needs subcutaneous fluids immediately to survive, along with the lighting and temperature adjustments I've already mentioned...


I can’t find any UV tubes that are my size which are a T5. Only T8 that are 12%, which are the ones where the maximum distance should be 6”/15 cm. If I get a metal reflector too, should the maximum distance still be the same?

If you really need to know, I’m from the Faroe Islands :) I’ll try my best to see if any stores here have electrolyte water.
Are you saying I should give him electrolyte water through his skin with a syringe?
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Re: Please help I think my beardies are sick!

Postby erlabella » Fri Dec 15, 2017 11:11 am

kingofnobbys wrote:
erlabella wrote:
EllenD wrote:Their tanks actually look very nice and well constructed. If you buy a T5 strength UVb tube and it is mounted at the top of these enclosures in a long tube fixture, it should be okay as long as they can get up onto those basking platforms. However, PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT WHATEVER TUBE FIXTURES YOU ARE USING THE UVB TUBES IN HAVE METAL REFLECTORS INSIDE THEM, THAT SIT BEHIND THE CHAMBER WHERE THE THE UVB TUBES SIT. This is imperative for large enclosures, as it's the only way to get proper UVB light throughout the enclosure.

I don't know why this seller is listing different wattages for different length tubes. The length of the UVB tubes does no effect the wattage at all. For example, the genuine Arcadia UVB tubes, the 12% or the 14% are both T5 strength UVB tubes. (The 12% and the 14% designate the percentage of UVB light emitted from the tube, anything over 10% is adequate for Bearded Dragons, like the Reptisun 10.0 is a 10% UVB light). However, the wattage is effected by the strength, not the length. So the Arcadia 14% UVb tube come in 18", 24", 36", and 48" lengths, but they are all the same wattages. That's why I'm not trusting this eBay seller at all. Most likely is selling cheap, Chinese made knock-offs, as that doesn't look to me like the official Arcadia logo either, which is a definite red flag.

You cannot trust eBay, and I would not purchase any of these UVB tubes at all. I just noticed the "Arcadia" logo being weird, and that combined with the lengths and wattages is telling me this is a total rip-off and a waste of your money. I know you're in the UK (I think) which is where Arcadia lights are made...can you purchase from Amazon.com? I honestly don't know if the UK has a version of Amazon.com, but if you do, that would be your best bet for both price and genuine product, as Amazon.com is legitimate always, eBay is full of cheap knock-offs of everything.

If you cannot purchase from Amazon, maybe someone else on here that is in the UK can tell you the best place to order genuine Arcadia UVB tubes from, or the best place to buy them in-store, as you're lucky, they are sold all over the UK in stores. (We cannot usually buy them in the US unless we order them from Amazon or a UK site, which takes forever for shipping). They are definitely the most commonly used UVB tubes for owners on this board that live in the UK, so wait for someone else from the UK to comment on this before ordering anything from eBay, as I'm 99% sure that the eBay seller you're looking at is a ripoff.


Thanks for telling me that. I would probably have bought it as it looks fine. I am not from the UK but i would be able to order online from there. I could also order from the local pet store and ask for Reptisun or Arcadia light tubes. I cannot order from amazon since tey don’t ship to my country (however if they did it would be very expensive, which I won’t be able to afford :( )


Try Birmingham Reptiles (UK), they are perfectly happy to ship Arcadia products , I'm in Australia and I sourced my Arcadia t5ho Slimline kits which happened to include Arcadia 12%UVB t5ho tubes.
Actually worked out cheaper for me to buy from them than the local Arcadia reseller who didn't even have the lights and fittings I wanted and was less than interested in ordering in for me.


I’ve looked at their website :) should I contact them to place an order?
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Re: Please help I think my beardies are sick!

Postby Drache613 » Fri Dec 15, 2017 9:31 pm

Hello,

How is your boy this evening, are you going to be able to get him vet care? He does need
intensive care.
As far as a slurry goes, you can get organic chicken or turkey baby food, sweet potato or
squash baby food with blended greens for minerals, in with it all. Yes, you can mix the
calcium & vitamins in together with the slurry. Are you able to get any food into him right
now?
Your tanks are very nice. Were you able to get your UVB lights ordered?
Please keep us updated on him.

Tracie
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Re: Please help I think my beardies are sick!

Postby erlabella » Sat Dec 16, 2017 6:38 am

I’m sad to announce this, but Rey sadly passed away this morning 16-12-17 :( I tried everything I could to help him but he wasn’t getting better. I feel horrible :( I’m just glad that he isn’t suffering anymore :( He’s with his daughter now in heaven, who also passed away earlier this year :(

[Click image to enlarge]


15-10-11 - 16-12-17

Rest in peace <3
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Re: Please help I think my beardies are sick!

Postby erlabella » Thu Dec 28, 2017 12:40 pm

I can’t find any UV tubes that I actually need :( I’ve looked on Amazon (both US and UK) and ebay (which I don’t trust) and I’ve asked the local pet store (they still haven’t answered) and I still can’t find any tubes that ship to my country :( my plan b is to just go buy exoterra tubes and raise their basking spot, but I won’t give up. I’m looking for:

Arcadia or Reptisun UV bulbs, 48” & 36”, t5 and atleast 10%

If someone could help me, that would be nice :)
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Re: Please help I think my beardies are sick!

Postby AHBD » Thu Dec 28, 2017 12:46 pm

Aw, I'm sorry that Rey passed and that I missed that on your thread, my condolences to you on your loss. :(

As for the Exo terra Reptiglo, that bulb will work fine within 8-10" of your dragon. If others come on here + tell you otherwise, just go to the website of one of the top breeders of big + healthy dragons in the U.S. ....Tamara from rainbow bearded dragons. She lists the reptiglo tube as the one she prefers on her care sheet and her dragons have been fast growers + top sellers for the past 14-15 years. I've also used it with success. You just have to have it mounted inside and be at the right distance.
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Re: Please help I think my beardies are sick!

Postby erlabella » Thu Dec 28, 2017 1:13 pm

AHBD wrote:Aw, I'm sorry that Rey passed and that I missed that on your thread, my condolences to you on your loss. :(

As for the Exo terra Reptiglo, that bulb will work fine within 8-10" of your dragon. If others come on here + tell you otherwise, just go to the website of one of the top breeders of big + healthy dragons in the U.S. ....Tamara from rainbow bearded dragons. She lists the reptiglo tube as the one she prefers on her care sheet and her dragons have been fast growers + top sellers for the past 14-15 years. I've also used it with success. You just have to have it mounted inside and be at the right distance.


They are able to order Exo terra Repti glo bulbs, 36” 30w 10.0 and 48” 40w 10.0 (both t8) which are the ones I need. Are those fine if I raise their basking? Also, on the Exo terra website, it says that the bulbs are effective within a 20” range.

The large cage already has a Reptiglo tube, so I won’t have to change it right now.
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Re: Please help I think my beardies are sick!

Postby AHBD » Thu Dec 28, 2017 1:23 pm

At 20" it would provide very little uvb. Stay at 8-10" with a reflector behind it and you should be fine.
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Re: Please help I think my beardies are sick!

Postby erlabella » Thu Dec 28, 2017 2:19 pm

AHBD wrote:At 20" it would provide very little uvb. Stay at 8-10" with a reflector behind it and you should be fine.


Okay thank you :) I’ll keep you updated.
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Re: Please help I think my beardies are sick!

Postby Drache613 » Fri Dec 29, 2017 10:24 pm

Hello,

How many other dragons do you currently have now?
I hope he/she is doing better! I am so sorry about Rey passing away, that is never ever
easy to have to endure. :cry:
Just be sure the Reptiglo 10 tube has a reflector behind it & that it's mounted directly above
his head & alongside of a bright white basking light.

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Re: Please help I think my beardies are sick!

Postby erlabella » Sat Dec 30, 2017 5:49 am

Drache613 wrote:Hello,

How many other dragons do you currently have now?
I hope he/she is doing better! I am so sorry about Rey passing away, that is never ever
easy to have to endure. :cry:
Just be sure the Reptiglo 10 tube has a reflector behind it & that it's mounted directly above
his head & alongside of a bright white basking light.

Tracie


Hey

Messi and Ressi are doing better, but I’m still giving them baby food once in a while, since they don’t poop very often. They don’t eat much. Only when I handfeed them.

It wasn’t easy for me to say goodbye :(
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Re: Please help I think my beardies are sick!

Postby erlabella » Sat Jan 06, 2018 7:45 am

Hello again :)

UPDATE:
My other beardie Ressi is starting to show the same symptoms like Rey had, and I’m very scared.

I have finally ordered Exoterra light for him. I’m thinking of moving him to the larger enclosure (with Exoterra light) and put Messi in the other for a while.

I’ve also been giving them a better diet.

Daily:
Rocket
Butternut squash
Zucchini

Occasional:
Chinese cabbage
Sweet potato
Parsnip
Bell pepper
Carrot

Rarely:
Apple
And other fruits

I’ve also bought some new vitamin and calcium supplements. Rep-cal calcium and Rep-cal Herptivite.

I’m getting crickets on January 29th. It’s illegal to import roaches.

About raising their baksing spot. I’m working on it right now. Shouldn’t be a problem.

Their health:

Messi:
She actually has been eating more veggies lately. She’s active and alert. Still won’t poop regularly.

Ressi:
He has stopped eating recently. Not very active. Lays mostly flat down on his bark wood or basking spot. Currently in shed. Sometimes runs around his enclosure. Also doesn’t poop regularly. I’m thinking about giving him some liquid vitamins for now.


I also have a few questions regarding crickets:

Should I feed them a few crickets everyday or many crickets a few days a week? What would you recommend? I would probably go for the first one since it seems easier. How many should I give them everyday then?

I’ve looked up some care sheet on how to take care of them, and I also want to breed them. I just don’t know if my containers are big enough. I have two and one other for the eggs. First one is ? and the second ?. I’m a newbie when it comes to taking care of crickets but hopefully it will work :)
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Re: Please help I think my beardies are sick!

Postby Drache613 » Sun Jan 07, 2018 7:10 pm

Hello,

Which Exoterra UVB light did you order, the Reptiglo 10 tube correct?
How are they both doing today?
Shedding will definitely affect the appetite & eating also, so keep that in mind. It may be a
primary cause of the lack of appetite or activity.
The diet looks good, plenty of variety now. The repcal calcium & herptivite will be fine.
The calcium can be given 4-5 times per week for a baby & 2-3 times a week for an adult.
The herptivite can be given 1-2 times per week for a baby & 1 time per week for adults.
Crickets are easy to breed & keep but some will argue that point! LOL I have been keeping
& breeding crickets for years.
If you want to make a thread in the Feeders section, we can go into more detail there just so
we don't hijack your thread on starting a feeder colony. That is up to you, since it's your
thread! LOL
For feeding them the crickets, you can give crickets daily, no problem, or every few days.
What are their ages again, adults? If they are adults, you can get them at about 50-60
per week with the vegetation right now, since they do need some weight gain.
Let us know how they are doing!

Tracie
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Re: Please help I think my beardies are sick!

Postby erlabella » Sun Jan 07, 2018 7:45 pm

Drache613 wrote:Hello,

Which Exoterra UVB light did you order, the Reptiglo 10 tube correct?
How are they both doing today?
Shedding will definitely affect the appetite & eating also, so keep that in mind. It may be a
primary cause of the lack of appetite or activity.
The diet looks good, plenty of variety now. The repcal calcium & herptivite will be fine.
The calcium can be given 4-5 times per week for a baby & 2-3 times a week for an adult.
The herptivite can be given 1-2 times per week for a baby & 1 time per week for adults.
Crickets are easy to breed & keep but some will argue that point! LOL I have been keeping
& breeding crickets for years.
If you want to make a thread in the Feeders section, we can go into more detail there just so
we don't hijack your thread on starting a feeder colony. That is up to you, since it's your
thread! LOL
For feeding them the crickets, you can give crickets daily, no problem, or every few days.
What are their ages again, adults? If they are adults, you can get them at about 50-60
per week with the vegetation right now, since they do need some weight gain.
Let us know how they are doing!

Tracie


I did order the Exoterra reptiglo 10.0 tube :) It’ll take three weeks to arrive.

I’m pretty sure he’s acting like this because of the shedding. He’s hiding and won’t eat a lot (could also be brumation?) i just hope it won’t last long.

I give them herptivite and calcium on saturdays, and some other days, just calcium :) that should be enough.

I’ve always read and heard that cricket are pretty easy to have and nutricious for dragons. But it’s the only feeder insect (besides mealworms and superworms) I have access to. Just FYI, there’s only one pet store in my country... which is why this is so hard for me. ( two, but only one that sells reptile stuff)

50-60 per week? I’ll probably breed them first before giving that much to my beardies lol, but I’ll try to give them as many as I can. Yeah they’re adults. 6 and 3 years old.

Just mentioning that I did weigh Messi the other day just out of curiosity. She weighed around 350 grams and she’s 45 cm long.
erlabella
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