Possible sick juvi beardie.

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Hello, I've had my bearded dragon since 7/27 2017, from his size I gauged that he was roughly 2 months in age. He was actully the largest one out of all the ones the store had gotten that day in shippment. I have him in a 20 gallon and when he got to be bigger in a month or 3 I was going to upgrade to a 40 or 75 gallon tank for him. This is my first beardie. I soak in him warm water every 2-3 days mostly after he eats but he likes to poop in his tank rather then the warm water. He sits on his oerch and won't move at all it seems from when I leave from work til coming home. His UVB is times for 10 hours a day. 6am to 4pm.

Symptoms that I noticed:
Head and sometimes body trembles
Stiffness
Not heavily active but very alert

Tank set up:
20 gallon Zoo Med starter kit with 50/60 watt changed lights, no more 100 watt.
No sand, just paper towel and carpet
1 food dish, 1 water bowl

Food:
Lightly Dusted roaches, mealworms and crickets.
Kale and bock choy
Pellets

Eating habits:
Doesn't touch the veggies or pellets unless I force feed him.
Roughly eats 20 to 30 crickets a week. If I'm lucky when I bring hime crickets I'll buy 6-10. He typically will eat all 6 but maybe leave 2 from the 10.

This isn't my first reptile, I know something is off but it could be me. I know my first mistake was buying him from my local pet store. I have a 4 month old leo from a reptile show and he is healthy, shed twice and I've had him a 2-3 weeks less then my beardie.

Update 09/20
I took his food dish out so I can try to feed him more dusted crickets. I got a thermometer/hydrometer duo and another thermometer for the opposite side of his tank. In the next few days I eill be getting his 10.0 reptisun uvb bulb. I will be uploading pictures of my tank and beardie in the next day or so. I just need to get the multi vitamins next. And then anything else I need. Thanks thus far for all the help. Forums are still a littlr confusing for me so I apologize for the slow replies. I am slowly making proper changes to my beardie tank.
 

kyleena29

Sub-Adult Member
What are you using to take temps with?
What are the basking site temps and cool end temps?
What brand/type of uvb are you using? What is the closest distance measurement?

I don't think those starter kits have any good uvb with them.
Mealworms are not good for them I would stop offering those.

Here is a good site for nutrition info
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
 

CaramelBeet

Hatchling Member
catomiletea":nsnhkpt1 said:
Hello, I've had my bearded dragon since 7/27 2017, from his size I gauged that he was roughly 2 months in age. He was actully the largest one out of all the ones the store had gotten that day in shippment. How big is he now, and how much does he weigh?
I have him in a 20 gallon and when he got to be bigger in a month or 3 I was going to upgrade to a 40 or 75 gallon tank for him. This is my first beardie. I soak in him warm water every 2-3 days mostly after he eats but he likes to poop in his tank rather then the warm water. He sits on his oerch and won't move at all it seems from when I leave from work til coming home. His UVB is times for 10 hours a day. 6am to 4pm.

Symptoms that I noticed:
Head and sometimes body trembles
Stiffness
Not heavily active but very alert

Tank set up:
20 gallon Zoo Med starter kit with 50/60 watt changed lights, no more 100 watt. Does he have a UV light? If so, what sort (brand, strength, coil bulb or tube, how far away)?
No sand, just paper towel and carpet
1 food dish, 1 water bowl
What temps are the basking spot and cool side, and what are you taking them with (stick on thermometer? Probe? Temp gun?

Food:
Lightly Dusted roaches, mealworms and crickets. Ditch the mealworms. What are they dusted with? Should be calcium 5 times a week and vitamins twice a week, once a day.
Kale and bock choy Neither are great as staples, see http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html for an idea. Both can be fed, but should use high calcium vegetables primarily.
Pellets Ditch these, no nutritional value.

Eating habits:
Doesn't touch the veggies or pellets unless I force feed him. At his age it's fine if he just wants insects.
Roughly eats 20 to 30 crickets a week. If I'm lucky when I bring hime crickets I'll buy 6-10. He typically will eat all 6 but maybe leave 2 from the 10. He should be getting 2 meals a day of as many insects as he can eat in a 10-15 minute period, as he needs lots of protein to grow at this age.

This isn't my first reptile, I know something is off but it could be me. I know my first mistake was buying him from my local pet store. I have a 4 month old leo from a reptile show and he is healthy, shed twice and I've had him a 2-3 weeks less then my beardie.

Might be an idea to have a vet x-ray him and check for Metabolic Bone Disease.
 

catomiletea

Member
Original Poster
CaramelBeet":3qp7vgqx said:
catomiletea":3qp7vgqx said:
Hello, I've had my bearded dragon since 7/27 2017, from his size I gauged that he was roughly 2 months in age. He was actully the largest one out of all the ones the store had gotten that day in shippment. How big is he now, and how much does he weigh?
I have him in a 20 gallon and when he got to be bigger in a month or 3 I was going to upgrade to a 40 or 75 gallon tank for him. This is my first beardie. I soak in him warm water every 2-3 days mostly after he eats but he likes to poop in his tank rather then the warm water. He sits on his oerch and won't move at all it seems from when I leave from work til coming home. His UVB is times for 10 hours a day. 6am to 4pm.

Symptoms that I noticed:
Head and sometimes body trembles
Stiffness
Not heavily active but very alert

Tank set up:
20 gallon Zoo Med starter kit with 50/60 watt changed lights, no more 100 watt. Does he have a UV light? If so, what sort (brand, strength, coil bulb or tube, how far away)?
No sand, just paper towel and carpet
1 food dish, 1 water bowl
What temps are the basking spot and cool side, and what are you taking them with (stick on thermometer? Probe? Temp gun?

Food:
Lightly Dusted roaches, mealworms and crickets. Ditch the mealworms. What are they dusted with? Should be calcium 5 times a week and vitamins twice a week, once a day.
Kale and bock choy Neither are great as staples, see http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html for an idea. Both can be fed, but should use high calcium vegetables primarily.
Pellets Ditch these, no nutritional value.

Eating habits:
Doesn't touch the veggies or pellets unless I force feed him. At his age it's fine if he just wants insects.
Roughly eats 20 to 30 crickets a week. If I'm lucky when I bring hime crickets I'll buy 6-10. He typically will eat all 6 but maybe leave 2 from the 10. He should be getting 2 meals a day of as many insects as he can eat in a 10-15 minute period, as he needs lots of protein to grow at this age.

This isn't my first reptile, I know something is off but it could be me. I know my first mistake was buying him from my local pet store. I have a 4 month old leo from a reptile show and he is healthy, shed twice and I've had him a 2-3 weeks less then my beardie.

Might be an idea to have a vet x-ray him and check for Metabolic Bone Disease.


He hasn't shed once so he is the same size from when I got him and that is I think 5-6 inches including his tail.
And thank you and the person above for the same link about nutritional veggies and such. I didn't know they needed multivitamins.. he does have a uvb and its thus brand and type: https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-reptisun-100-uvb-compact/dp/126581?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=f&utm_content=Zoo%20Med&utm_term=&gclid=CjwKCAjw3f3NBRBPEiwAiiHxGCotueq-RreuwIQIft1dy1PE76kV7AsZKx-fuzUjKtpXmjJDFqqoeRoCoAYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Once I'm home I will double check the wattage.
Anything you can recommend light wise and vitamin wise is greatly appreciated! I'll save my mealworms for my mouse and leo. And I know he should be eating a lot more but he wont eat everything I give him. And I haven't gotten any temp. gauges.. I had to change his original lights becuse they were cooking him, both 100 watts. His day is All Living Things and its 50 watts, his night is Zoo Med 60 watts. They are in a double lamp and I'm not sure about the spacing. If this site allows me I can take pictures and measurements tomorrow and show you.
 

catomiletea

Member
Original Poster
kyleena29":6y1r93co said:
What are you using to take temps with?
What are the basking site temps and cool end temps?
What brand/type of uvb are you using? What is the closest distance measurement?

I don't think those starter kits have any good uvb with them.
Mealworms are not good for them I would stop offering those.

Here is a good site for nutrition info
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html

I answered all of these in the below post. I will stop offering the mealworms and I linked the brand and design if the uvb I'm using. The wattage I need to check once I'm home tomorrow. Thank you for the link about the nutritional list as well. And as I wrote in the post below any vitamins, lights, brands, anything recommend would be greatly appreciated. I want nothing more to have my bearded dragon survive. These past 2 months have been nothing but horrible for me animal wise, not to vent. I lost two mice and a hamster to old age and the last thing I want to do is loose my first beardie Balerion to my own stupidity..
 

kyleena29

Sub-Adult Member
You need to be sure your temps are right as it can cause the problems you are having. I use this for the basking spot. https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Digital-Terrarium-Thermometer/dp/B000MD3MFA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505802691&sr=8-2&keywords=reptile+thermometer
I use this on the cool end so I can also monitor humidity. https://www.walmart.com/ip/AcuRite-Digital-Humidity-and-Temperature-Monitor-00325/16888914

I don't know much about that uvb since I only use T5 tubes. Hopefully someone can provide input on those as well as how close it needs to be to him.

This is an excellent site to get calcium and vitamins from.
http://www.beardeddragon.co/index.php?route=product/product&path=61&product_id=257
http://www.beardeddragon.co/index.php?route=product/product&path=61&product_id=87

You might want both types of calcium (with and without D3) and alternate.

I do recommend arcadia tube uvb bulbs over the one you are using but it would need a fixture as well.
http://www.reptilebasics.com/arcadia-desert-12-uvb/arcadia-d3-12-uvb-t5-bulb-22/
http://www.reptilebasics.com/t5-light-fixtures/t5-single-bulb-light-strip-24/
With this uvb you want it positioned next to the basking site and 10-12" at the closest point. Best for when you upgrade his tank.
The uvb you have I think he needs to be 6-8"
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

So you are using the All Living Things as your UVB light?
It is not a real effective UVB. So, as suggested definitely consider changing out the UVB light
such as the Arcadia D3 12% tube or the Reptisun 10 tube either one. He will do much better
with a stronger UVB light.
Based on his symptoms, it sounds like he may have some calcium issue possibly.
Are the crickets smaller than the space between his eyes?

Tracie
 

CaramelBeet

Hatchling Member
catomiletea":3kdnyrp2 said:
He hasn't shed once so he is the same size from when I got him and that is I think 5-6 inches including his tail. Do you know his weight? Beardies can have tail nips, so weight is a better indicator of size. 5-6 inches sounds tiny if he has a normal length tail! (perhaps you could post a picture of him? You can upload them here https://www.beardeddragon.org/useruploads/
If you've had him for two months (since 27/7?) then he should have grown by now, so I suspect your UV is the issue.

And thank you and the person above for the same link about nutritional veggies and such. I didn't know they needed multivitamins.. he does have a uvb and its thus brand and type: https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-reptisun-100-uvb-compact/dp/126581?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=f&utm_content=Zoo%20Med&utm_term=&gclid=CjwKCAjw3f3NBRBPEiwAiiHxGCotueq-RreuwIQIft1dy1PE76kV7AsZKx-fuzUjKtpXmjJDFqqoeRoCoAYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds This one is too weak, so it will need replacing asap unfortunately, especially for a growing baby. (I think someone told me they're ok if they have a reflector dome, are at least 26 watts, and your beardie can get very close with nothing between; you'd be far better off upgrading to one of the suggested ones though)
Once I'm home I will double check the wattage.
Anything you can recommend light wise and vitamin wise is greatly appreciated! I'll save my mealworms for my mouse and leo. And I know he should be eating a lot more but he wont eat everything I give him. And I haven't gotten any temp. gauges.. Please get some good thermometers as soon as possible, correct temperatures are necessary for digestion/metabolism. Kyleena linked some good ones. The sooner the better, a normal outdoor thermometer with a probe is fine, and you should be able to find one easily. I had to change his original lights because they were cooking him, both 100 watts. His day is All Living Things Is this separate to his UV (just a normal light bulb)? That should be alright. If you need to play around with temps once you get a thermometer, then normal halogens work fine as basking bulbs. and its 50 watts, his night is Zoo Med 60 watts. He shouldn't have any visible light on at night (even a coloured light, red, purple etc). Despite what pet stores will tell you, they can still see this light and it will disrupt his sleep. If his tank drops below 18degC at night, you can get a ceramic heat emitter (heat without light) and a ceramic socket, to keep him warm. They are in a double lamp and I'm not sure about the spacing. If this site allows me I can take pictures and measurements tomorrow and show you. Pics of the tank,
lights and beardie would be great, if you can!

I'd say he's not hungry because his temps are off and UV is weak, and consequently he's not growing. Hopefully, he'll perk up with some adjustments.
Oh and for vitamins, you should be able to find generic reptile vitamins at your pet store. These are okay (you can always post the specific brand and a picture of the nutrient contents if you want us to take a look at whatever's available near you), or if you want something better quality, you can order something like https://www.store.repashy.com/calcium-plus-4-oz-bag.html which have a very good reputation (this one is a vitamin and calcium powder, so you only need the one)

Calcium without D3 is fine if you have good UV; it's uncertain whether they can use D3 that's orally ingested, but it doesn't hurt. (I'd just keep using whichever calcium you have)
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
catomiletea":2taxgz04 said:
CaramelBeet":2taxgz04 said:
catomiletea":2taxgz04 said:
Hello, I've had my bearded dragon since 7/27 2017, from his size I gauged that he was roughly 2 months in age. He was actully the largest one out of all the ones the store had gotten that day in shippment. How big is he now, and how much does he weigh?
I have him in a 20 gallon and when he got to be bigger in a month or 3 I was going to upgrade to a 40 or 75 gallon tank for him. This is my first beardie. I soak in him warm water every 2-3 days mostly after he eats but he likes to poop in his tank rather then the warm water. He sits on his oerch and won't move at all it seems from when I leave from work til coming home. His UVB is times for 10 hours a day. 6am to 4pm.

Symptoms that I noticed:
Head and sometimes body trembles
Stiffness
Not heavily active but very alert

Tank set up:
20 gallon Zoo Med starter kit with 50/60 watt changed lights, no more 100 watt. Does he have a UV light? If so, what sort (brand, strength, coil bulb or tube, how far away)?
No sand, just paper towel and carpet
1 food dish, 1 water bowl
What temps are the basking spot and cool side, and what are you taking them with (stick on thermometer? Probe? Temp gun?

Food:
Lightly Dusted roaches, mealworms and crickets. Ditch the mealworms. What are they dusted with? Should be calcium 5 times a week and vitamins twice a week, once a day.
Kale and bock choy Neither are great as staples, see http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html for an idea. Both can be fed, but should use high calcium vegetables primarily.
Pellets Ditch these, no nutritional value.

Eating habits:
Doesn't touch the veggies or pellets unless I force feed him. At his age it's fine if he just wants insects.
Roughly eats 20 to 30 crickets a week. If I'm lucky when I bring hime crickets I'll buy 6-10. He typically will eat all 6 but maybe leave 2 from the 10. He should be getting 2 meals a day of as many insects as he can eat in a 10-15 minute period, as he needs lots of protein to grow at this age.

This isn't my first reptile, I know something is off but it could be me. I know my first mistake was buying him from my local pet store. I have a 4 month old leo from a reptile show and he is healthy, shed twice and I've had him a 2-3 weeks less then my beardie.

Might be an idea to have a vet x-ray him and check for Metabolic Bone Disease.


He hasn't shed once so he is the same size from when I got him and that is I think 5-6 inches including his tail.
And thank you and the person above for the same link about nutritional veggies and such. I didn't know they needed multivitamins.. he does have a uvb and its thus brand and type: https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-reptisun-100-uvb-compact/dp/126581?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=f&utm_content=Zoo%20Med&utm_term=&gclid=CjwKCAjw3f3NBRBPEiwAiiHxGCotueq-RreuwIQIft1dy1PE76kV7AsZKx-fuzUjKtpXmjJDFqqoeRoCoAYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
<<< A 13W 10% UVB compact is not adequate , this globe needs to be swapped out for a 26W version, I've found 26W UVB200s are very good.
Once I'm home I will double check the wattage.
Anything you can recommend light wise and vitamin wise is greatly appreciated! I'll save my mealworms for my mouse and leo. And I know he should be eating a lot more but he wont eat everything I give him. And I haven't gotten any temp. gauges.. I had to change his original lights becuse they were cooking him, both 100 watts. His day is All Living Things and its 50 watts, his night is Zoo Med 60 watts.
If the All Living Things 50W a neodymium or just a straight incandescent spotglobe ?
If it's a neodymium globe I recommend tossing it in the bin as none of their UV globes are good or safe due to very poor quality quartz in the globe and very cheap nasty neodymium coating.
They are in a double lamp and I'm not sure about the spacing. If this site allows me I can take pictures and measurements tomorrow and show you.



You'll find UV and basking light , thermal gradient and UVB gradient guidance here : viewtopic.php?f=6&t=234738&p=1806050#p1806050
, aim for a UV flux of 180-200 microW UVB / sq.cm @ the basking spot , and 40-43 degC at the basking spot (NEVER HOTTER).

Here is data (expressed as curves showing microW UVB / sq.cm verses distance for a range of UV sources . viewtopic.php?f=34&t=235611

You currently have a very small (tiny) viv, so you can get away with a 26W UVB200 mounted in a NANOHOOD which is UNDER the mesh lid about 8 inches from the basking spot.

Consider upgrading to a much larger viv soon ,you'll be very surprised how fast a hatchling will grow in it's first year, the growth is still fast in the 2nd year but will taper off in the last 4-6 months.
 

catomiletea

Member
Original Poster
He hasn't shed once so he is the same size from when I got him and that is I think 5-6 inches including his tail.
And thank you and the person above for the same link about nutritional veggies and such. I didn't know they needed multivitamins.. he does have a uvb and its thus brand and type: https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-reptisun-100-uvb-compact/dp/126581?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=f&utm_content=Zoo%20Med&utm_term=&gclid=CjwKCAjw3f3NBRBPEiwAiiHxGCotueq-RreuwIQIft1dy1PE76kV7AsZKx-fuzUjKtpXmjJDFqqoeRoCoAYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
<<< A 13W 10% UVB compact is not adequate , this globe needs to be swapped out for a 26W version, I've found 26W UVB200s are very good.
Once I'm home I will double check the wattage.
Anything you can recommend light wise and vitamin wise is greatly appreciated! I'll save my mealworms for my mouse and leo. And I know he should be eating a lot more but he wont eat everything I give him. And I haven't gotten any temp. gauges.. I had to change his original lights becuse they were cooking him, both 100 watts. His day is All Living Things and its 50 watts, his night is Zoo Med 60 watts.
If the All Living Things 50W a neodymium or just a straight incandescent spotglobe ?
If it's a neodymium globe I recommend tossing it in the bin as none of their UV globes are good or safe due to very poor quality quartz in the globe and very cheap nasty neodymium coating.
They are in a double lamp and I'm not sure about the spacing. If this site allows me I can take pictures and measurements tomorrow and show you.[/quote]



You'll find UV and basking light , thermal gradient and UVB gradient guidance here : viewtopic.php?f=6&t=234738&p=1806050#p1806050
, aim for a UV flux of 180-200 microW UVB / sq.cm @ the basking spot , and 40-43 degC at the basking spot (NEVER HOTTER).

Here is data (expressed as curves showing microW UVB / sq.cm verses distance for a range of UV sources . viewtopic.php?f=34&t=235611

You currently have a very small (tiny) viv, so you can get away with a 26W UVB200 mounted in a NANOHOOD which is UNDER the mesh lid about 8 inches from the basking spot.

Consider upgrading to a much larger viv soon ,you'll be very surprised how fast a hatchling will grow in it's first year, the growth is still fast in the 2nd year but will taper off in the last 4-6 months.[/quote]

A 26watt for the uvb? So Reptisun 10.0 isn't good enough either? How many hours should I have it on? I have mine timed for 10 hours every day.
I'm not sure what you mean about his All living things light.
I was abke to buy a duo hydrometer and thermometer today snd I put it on the side of his tank where his tree is and his lights are, its currently reading: 90° F for the thermometer and about 45% on the hydrometer.
Also what is a viv? I'm so sorry I'm not fluent in reptile lingo yet :(
 

catomiletea

Member
Original Poster
Drache613":1mrukvt1 said:
Hello,

So you are using the All Living Things as your UVB light?
It is not a real effective UVB. So, as suggested definitely consider changing out the UVB light
such as the Arcadia D3 12% tube or the Reptisun 10 tube either one. He will do much better
with a stronger UVB light.
Based on his symptoms, it sounds like he may have some calcium issue possibly.
Are the crickets smaller than the space between his eyes?

Tracie
I'm not using a UVB by ALT, my uvb is by Reptisun. My day light is ALT and my night light is Zoo Meds moonlight.

I'm seeing his uvb being the problem. I'm highly concidering getting the reptisun 10, but I dont have the tude hood. I'll have to buy it. I only have a half dome of sort by zoo med. With just a reptisun 5 bulb in it.

Also the crickets are smaller then the space between his eyes, that i at least know that he is still to young for large crickets/roaches.
 

catomiletea

Member
Original Poster
CaramelBeet":1h6xolno said:
catomiletea":1h6xolno said:
He hasn't shed once so he is the same size from when I got him and that is I think 5-6 inches including his tail. Do you know his weight? Beardies can have tail nips, so weight is a better indicator of size. 5-6 inches sounds tiny if he has a normal length tail! (perhaps you could post a picture of him? You can upload them here https://www.beardeddragon.org/useruploads/
If you've had him for two months (since 27/7?) then he should have grown by now, so I suspect your UV is the issue.

And thank you and the person above for the same link about nutritional veggies and such. I didn't know they needed multivitamins.. he does have a uvb and its thus brand and type: https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-reptisun-100-uvb-compact/dp/126581?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=f&utm_content=Zoo%20Med&utm_term=&gclid=CjwKCAjw3f3NBRBPEiwAiiHxGCotueq-RreuwIQIft1dy1PE76kV7AsZKx-fuzUjKtpXmjJDFqqoeRoCoAYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds This one is too weak, so it will need replacing asap unfortunately, especially for a growing baby. (I think someone told me they're ok if they have a reflector dome, are at least 26 watts, and your beardie can get very close with nothing between; you'd be far better off upgrading to one of the suggested ones though)
Once I'm home I will double check the wattage.
Anything you can recommend light wise and vitamin wise is greatly appreciated! I'll save my mealworms for my mouse and leo. And I know he should be eating a lot more but he wont eat everything I give him. And I haven't gotten any temp. gauges.. Please get some good thermometers as soon as possible, correct temperatures are necessary for digestion/metabolism. Kyleena linked some good ones. The sooner the better, a normal outdoor thermometer with a probe is fine, and you should be able to find one easily. I had to change his original lights because they were cooking him, both 100 watts. His day is All Living Things Is this separate to his UV (just a normal light bulb)? That should be alright. If you need to play around with temps once you get a thermometer, then normal halogens work fine as basking bulbs. and its 50 watts, his night is Zoo Med 60 watts. He shouldn't have any visible light on at night (even a coloured light, red, purple etc). Despite what pet stores will tell you, they can still see this light and it will disrupt his sleep. If his tank drops below 18degC at night, you can get a ceramic heat emitter (heat without light) and a ceramic socket, to keep him warm. They are in a double lamp and I'm not sure about the spacing. If this site allows me I can take pictures and measurements tomorrow and show you. Pics of the tank,
lights and beardie would be great, if you can!

I'd say he's not hungry because his temps are off and UV is weak, and consequently he's not growing. Hopefully, he'll perk up with some adjustments.
Oh and for vitamins, you should be able to find generic reptile vitamins at your pet store. These are okay (you can always post the specific brand and a picture of the nutrient contents if you want us to take a look at whatever's available near you), or if you want something better quality, you can order something like https://www.store.repashy.com/calcium-plus-4-oz-bag.html which have a very good reputation (this one is a vitamin and calcium powder, so you only need the one)

Calcium without D3 is fine if you have good UV; it's uncertain whether they can use D3 that's orally ingested, but it doesn't hurt. (I'd just keep using whichever calcium you have)



Probably tomorrow I will go and get the Reptisun 10, as I don't want him to long without a uvb and this will be the strongest the nearest store has. I will probably have to look online for the 26W some are suggesting. How would I weight him? I got him a thermometer and hydrometer due. And I put them on the side of his tank where he has his day/night light. Its reading: 90° F and about 45%.
The calcuim I have is Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3.
I have to jump on my desktop to show you photos. None will upload via my mobile phone.
 

AHBD

BD.org Sicko
Hi there, I agree on the info about upgrading his uvb, and be sure that you have a basking spot of about 105. Pictures will tell a lot about his condition [ if he's very thin or slightly underweight ] Some people use kitchen scales or just small digital scales to weigh them, but generally it's not difficult to determine if the beardie is a healthy weight as a baby just by looking at them. Have you treid hand feeding him the crickets ? Or just shake them up real hard in a jar [ 3-4 at a time ] until they are stunned, then drop them right near your baby when they are weak + slow moving.

Is he still trembling ? Is there any way you can post a video of it ? Don't bother with getting xrays, it's very difficult to see any true calcium deficiency of a baby beardie by trying to gauge the thickness of the bones showing up on xray.

A viv is short for vivarium, the enclosure that you keep your dragon in.Pretty much the same as terrarium.
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

How is your baby doing this evening?
That would help out quite a bit, to upgrade his UVB light to the Reptisun 10 tube bulb.
Is the All Living Things day basking light, a bright white light or does it have a bluish
hue/tint on the bulb? If so, the bulb could have a Neodymium coating on it which is
hard on the eyes.
Be sure he gets calcium 4-5 days per week to help support the bones while he is so
quickly growing right now.
Keep us posted on how he is doing.

Tracie
 

CaramelBeet

Hatchling Member
I'll just clarify, kingofnobbys was referring to a 26 watt for the compact coil; the tube will be a different wattage, but is far preferable (needs to be a 10.0, preferably a t5 with reflector hood), and will be nice and strong for your baby.
 
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