Beardie with swollen hand

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https://youtu.be/yDIZvB1wnR0
Hi guys, I just noticed that my beardies hand became swollen somehow and now she seems like she doesn't want to walk on it at all, what should I do.

general info:
she is around 3 months old and i have had her for around 1 month
i feed her once a day, around 9-11 dubia roaches in protein powder and 1-2 superworms throughout the day
she has a reptisun T 10 for UBV
i still have yet to check the temps on her basking area, but I'm pretty sure it's hot enough.
i spray her down every day and she drinks from her water dish. bathe around once a week.
need anything else, just ask.
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

Do you have a hammock in her tank that she could have gotten a finger or claw stuck in & yanked it out injuring it?
Is that the only limb or hand that is swollen?
How close is the Reptisun 10 tube bulb to her?
Please post a couple of pictures of her setup for us to see light placement, etc.
Since she is a youngster, she will need calcium 4-5 times per week to help maintain her bones while growing rapidly. Are the superworms small also?
What are the temperatures in her tank too?
She is a little cutie, I hope it isn't gout but just a sprain.

Tracie
 

Austin8249

Member
Original Poster
http://imgur.com/a/WKlPB
she does have a little cloth thing she likes laying on that she could very well have got her claw stuck in.
while basking the UVB bulb is 7.5" away from her.
I just ran out of super worms today, but there were pretty small. by they need calcium 4-5 times per week, I give all of her roaches with calcium on them. is this too much?
temp is about 90 near the warm side of the tank and 80 on the cool side. normally the humidity sits around 30, but I was just spraying her.
Thanks, Tracie, you're a big help!
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
Austin8249":uto8dlh5 said:
http://imgur.com/a/WKlPB
she does have a little cloth thing she likes laying on that she could very well have got her claw stuck in.
while basking the UVB bulb is 7.5" away from her.
<<<<
>>> what is it's brand ? <<<< is this the tube ? http://zoomed.com/db/products/EntryDetail.php?EntryID=105&DatabaseID=2&SearchID=5
>>> is the tube a T8 tube or a T5 tube , = t8
>>> what is it's wattage ?
>>> what is it's rated UVB output (2% ? 5% ? or 10% ?) = 10% UVB (which is fine)
>>> I can't see a reflector behind the tube , if there is no reflector, it would be a great investment as it will effectively double UVA and UVB she's seeing
see http://www.uvguide.co.uk/fluorescenttubereflectortests.htm


your tank looks fine to me , could do with a couple of long thick rough surfaced branches to climb on and bask on and for mental stimulation.

from I think she could have snagged a toe in the gap between the hide and the rock maybe


I just ran out of super worms today, but there were pretty small. by they need calcium 4-5 times per week, I give all of her roaches with calcium on them. is this too much? <<< She's too young to cope with digesting superworms , similar to mealworms , very hard to digest exoskeletop.
I'd set the supers aside and keep feeding them bran etc to stop them from pupating and save them for when she's a year old.
Better worms for her are
large phoenix worms (USA) = BSF maggots
small (1.5inch) and medium (2inch) silkworms
Gutloaded (with calcium rich greens) , calcium dusted crickets , locusts or roaches of suitable size are good staple insects for her too (maybe 1/3 size crickets for her at 3 months old).

I'd be lightly dusting all her crickets/locasts/roaches with calcium 5 days a week, and calcium + vitamin powder on weekend.

MIN TWO LIVE INSECT MEALS PER DAY at 3 months. Offer fresh calcium rich greens and veg daily - if she eats the greens that's a bonus at 3 months old.

temp is about 90 near the warm side of the tank and 80 on the cool side. normally the humidity sits around 30, <<<< what is temperature at her basking spot ?

but I was just spraying her.
Thanks, Tracie, you're a big help!
 

Austin8249

Member
Original Poster
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YJ3BE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this is the exact bulb that I have

unfortunately, I don't have a temp. gun right now, but I would like to assume that it is good enough since I bought the light, tank and the fixture as a set together(says it was meant for bearded dragons) at my local pet store. I have been asking some people I know if they have a temp. gun that I can borrow, so hopefully, I will be able to check it soon. for what it's worth it's hot to the touch.
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
Austin8249":eoxnje9n said:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YJ3BE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this is the exact bulb that I have

unfortunately, I don't have a temp. gun right now, but I would like to assume that it is good enough since I bought the light, tank and the fixture as a set together(says it was meant for bearded dragons) at my local pet store. <<<< very bad mistake assuming staff at any petshop know what they are doing when it comes to setting up a tank for a lizard (any lizard) or anything about proper care and lizard husbandry ....

I have been asking some people I know if they have a temp. gun that I can borrow, so hopefully, I will be able to check it soon. for what it's worth it's hot to the touch
Very cheap on Ebay , I've have an AR310 (18:1 spot) that I've been using for near 10 yrs that is starting to have the plastic on it go sticky so I just ordered a new gun from Ebay
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Non-Contact-IR-Infrared-Digital-Temperature-Gun-Thermometer-Laser-Point-50-550-/351933619803?rsta=en_AU(en_AU)&cnac=AU&mail=sys&e=op&unp_tpcid=email-receipt-auction-payment&ppid=PPX000608&calf=bd14f62f3251b&calc=bd14f62f3251b&pgrp=main:email&unptid=5edc35fc-2a3e-11e7-8f39-441ea14e8960&mchn=em&t=&s=ci&page=main:email&cal=bd14f62f3251b&cust=
.
has a 12:1 spot , not as tight as my old one but which will do the job.

These temp guns are so cheap these days that no one has a good excuse not to have one in the kit, even if it's used mostly in the kitchen.
 

Austin8249

Member
Original Poster
it wasn't a set of items the pet store owner chose for me but rather a box with all the "essential" items for bearded dragons made by zilla.
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
Austin8249":3mpsibyr said:
it wasn't a set of items the pet store owner chose for me but rather a box with all the "essential" items for bearded dragons made by zilla.

I wouldn't trust Zilla either.

They in it to make money and want to tie you to their branded junk.

this the kit ? http://www.zillarules.com/all-products/terrariums/deluxe-bearded-dragon-kit
Deluxe Bearded Dragon Kits
257n47r.png


Keeping a docile, inquisitive bearded dragon is an ideal way to begin a reptile hobby, and the Deluxe Kit gets a new pet started on a long, fascinating life. It's all here: a glass terrarium for plenty of running room and three reflective dome light fixtures and bulbs that provide healthy amounts of both heat and light.
•All-in-one starter kit has everything needed to begin caring for a bearded dragon
•The proper light and heat is also included inside the kit
•Included inside: Reptile Rebates, up to $99 savings!
•Glass enclosure is Made in the USA <<< converted fish tank .... not good

•Kit includes: ◦3 Reflective Domes for heat, light and UVB <<< the domes can be handy IF they have ceramic high temperature light fittings built into them

◦Day Blue and Black Night Heat Incandescent Bulbs <<< blue day lights are NOT ADEQUATE for a bearded dragon (the basking light should be either a good MVB , or a good colorless incandescent par38 spot globe or equivalent
<<< black infrared globes not SUITABLE for bearded dragons (esp if used at night as they give off visible light that will disturb a bearded dragon's sleep - best to use a CHE which gets hot but gives off no visible light or even a film style heatpad that slips under the glass tank).

◦20 Watt UVB Fluorescent Coil Bulb <<<< ZILLA UVB CFBs are rubbish . made in china , they are claimed to produce sufficient UVA and UVB but because of poor quality phosphors used in their manufacture and the lack quality control , they are known emit dangerous wavelengths of UVB and UVC and have been implicated with bearded dragon eye problems and health issues as a consequence,
and their Desert 50 Compact is claimed to create 50 microwatt UVB at 12" , this is inadequate for a beardied dragon , equiv to a 5% UVB bulb by a quality brand so the bearded dragons get a bad spectrum of UV (A,B and C) , UVA and UVB are cut because it shine through a mesh lid and the UV bulb is too far from the dragon to be effective (beardie is unable to properly metabolise dietary calcium make vitD and hence bones and new tissues = bad)


◦Screen Cover <<<< very cheap and nasty , very poor tank design,
>very hard to maintain a good thermal gradient as heat created by lights is immediately lost as the warmed air rises through the screen cover unimpeded
and
>they expect the owner to mount all the lights ontop the mesh, BAD , the mesh wlll block a large part of any UVA and UVB created by the UV bulb.

◦Humidity/Temperature Gauges (two with 40 Breeder) <<<< 40 Gal Breeder (glass tank) only suitable for a hatchling and juveniles to about 12 months old.
and those dual analog dials are - WORTHLESS & HIGHLY INACCURATE , can not rely on the readings given by them as they can be out by more than 25% ==> you will have absolutely no idea the temperature and humidity in the tank if you rely on them

◦Lizard Lagoon Stone Bowl <<< that's OK

◦Bearded Dragon Food (total 42% = fat + protein + moisture , 48% other additives of dubious benefit to a beardie.).
.... might be OK as cricket or mealworm or superworm or roach food , maybe.


◦Reptile Bedding & Litter <<<< particulate stuff (sand and chips and litter pellet type materials) that can accidently be ingested ARE HIGHLY INAPPROPRIATE for a bearded dragon expecially young ones ==> high risk of impaction if it can't be digested or passed in poo. = BAD/ inappropriate
Yep , ....
essentially nearly everything in a Zilla Bearded Dragon Kit is rubbish or inappropriate or outright dangerous to a beardie's long term health.

And the Zilla Bearded Dragon Care Sheet/Guide is full of advise (a great deal of it BAD , inaccurate, downright dangerous and detrimental to the long term care of a bearded dragon). Do NOT FOLLOW their advise or care sheet as it is BAD advise.
 

Austin8249

Member
Original Poster
kingofnobbys":16e0626g said:
I wouldn't trust Zilla either.

They in it to make money and want to tie you to their branded junk.

That's probably true, but back on topic, what do you think I should do for her to help her hurt arm. Should I just let it heal naturally or should I take her to the vet? If it's the vet, how much would it cost for them to take a look at her arm + any medicine that they would give her?
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

How is your girl doing?
I doubt she needs any medication unless the vet wanted to give a little pain meds if she needs it.
Is she using it yet or not?
You can try to keep her basking spot a little lower so that she doesn't have to climb to bask & hurt her arm more. How is her appetite?
Most vet visits run from $45 & up for an office visit then any tests or medications on top of that. I don't think it is broken, but if it doesn't get better on its own soon you could get an x-ray done to be sure it isn't broken.

Let us know how she is doing.
Tracie
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
In addition to what Drache suggests , a very knowledgeable person there.

I'd ditch the Zilla globes (all of them)

and take the screen lid off and set it aside

for UV
bare minimum move the dome UNDER THE SCREEN LID , there are clamps that can hold onto side walls of a tank like your's
If you can't at this stage afford a good T8 reflector hood and a good T8 UVB tube (rated at 12% UVB - she's injured so needs the extra UVB) or a MVB , install a 26W UVB200 bulb in one of the reflector domes and arrange it so it is about 8 inches from her basking spot and aimed there.
A T8 tube will of cause be better , even a MVB ( high levels of UVA , UVB , bright whiteish light and heat all in one globe but focused at one area).

Bump up the day cycle to at least 14 hours (heat and UV and light) , 16 hours would be better, gives her plenty of time to stay warm and bask and metabolise dietary calcium and insect proteins.

For light + heat during day
ditch the two coloured globe ( only good place for them is in the bin )
Choices are:
- MVB above basking spot
- par38 incandescent or halogen colorless and clear spot globe
want basking spot about 105oF.


Nighttime
ditch the Zilla night light, replace with a CHE , be careful to check the temperatures , want her to stay warm overnight to boost her immune system (26-28oCelsius say).

Liquid calcium (vet grade , ready made) to give orally by syringe , dosed according to her body weight = a lot less hit and miss than relying on dusting the bugs.

Feeders
I'd include for one meal a day phoenix worms (BSF maggots) as many as she wants (they are naturally high in calcium)
I'd include silkworms in her diet (likely small (1.5inch) and medium (2inch), they have enzymes in them that help fight inflammation and they are also very nutritious).

Bedding
remove Zilla stuff and replace with kitchen grade paper toweling.

If she's still having problems with the arm in 2 or 3 days or if it gets worse , off to see a good vet I think.
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

So she is doing a little better now? Has her swelling gone at all yet?
Try to keep her from climbing too much to decrease stress on that area so that it can heal up.
Be sure to give good quality calcium 5 times weekly as well.

Let us know how she is doing.

Tracie
 
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