My bearded dragon is about 6.5 in and I got her for Christmas well that was 4 months ago and since then she hasn't shed or gotten bigger she's in a 40 gallon tank her temperature stays around 90-100 and she was very active when though she wasn't growing well recently she's been sleeping all day and barely eaten (yesterday she ate 8 crickets and I thought she was gonna start getting over whatever is happening but she won't eat anything) she won't bask and she stay in the cool area. Every time I put her in her basking spot she perks up and gets all wide eyes and starts moving trying to get away from the light/heat and she opens up her mouth like she's getting too hot. She looks so skinny right now and weak tonight when I got home I found her laying in her own poop and my heart sunk because I have no clue how long she had been like that so picked her up and gave her a bath and she kinda did the same thing she was doing with her light she peeked up and tried to run and opened her mouth and this is just scaring me I just want her to eat and be active so if anyone has any idea of what is going on please help btw I don't think is brumation bc it's not cold in fact it's just starting to get warm.
Bearded dragon slepts all day and won't eat very weak
- Thread starter Pogonda
- Start date
- Status
seandeangelis
Member
Pogonda":njgmav3k said:
Some other questions: what UVB do you have, how often and what do you feed her, and what dusting schedule do you use?
seandeangelis":3a0em7on said:
No I do not have a thermometer that goes on the wall because that was one of the first ones I bought and it ended up breaking and not working. I got one that has wires you put inside the tank and the thing that tells you the temp outside the cage. Right now it is 97.2 and the humidity is 22% she seems to be staying in her basking spot just not directly under the lights and she's not responding to when I touch her it's like she's in a deep sleep. I tried to give her another bath and hour ago to see if that would help and I had to hold her head up because she was just gonna lay flat in the water if I didn't. Pogo's light just went off bc it's that time and I hate that she didn't eat before going to bed it scares me. She looks so bad and weak right now and I've been so stressed and crying because I don't want anything bad to happen to her this has been going on for 3-4 days now and I just want her to be her active self again. I just don't understand how she ate 8 crickets yesterday and now she won't even stay awake for 2 mins
seandeangelis
Member
Well, I've exhausted my expertise and the only advice I can give you is to go to a vet, asap. Sorry I can't be of more help, maybe someone else can, but it sounds like your beardie is sick. It's definitely not brumation, maybe parasites? Also, you need quality UVB, I didn't see you mention what you have. Good luck, and please keep us updated!
Oh dear, how scary for you seeing your baby beardie act like that. 
It is DEFINITELY NOT brumation as a 6 1/2" beardie is way too young to brumate. Something else is definitely going on.
Please follow this link and download some pictures, then put the [XIMG] link here. We would need to see the bulbs you're using and their placement as well as pics of your baby. https://www.beardeddragon.org/useruploads/
Have you been misting her on her nose or offering drops of water on her nose for her to lick off? If not, please do that as if a baby is dehydrated, it can go downhill VERY quickly.
Are you using a UVB bulb? If so, please post pics of it or give us the brand & type. It is a necessity to have a good one.
Sounds like you have a digital thermometer with a long wire & probe end, is that right? If so, place the probe end right on the basking spot & then wait about 45 minutes and then give us the final basking SURFACE temp. Then place the probe way over on the bottom of the cool side & wait the same amount of time and then post the cool side temp for us.
Since she's not eating, you need to get some food into her. Pick up some chicken or turkey babyfood as well as some squash or sweet potato babyfood. Mix some of the meat & vegetable together, add a little water & a small pinch of calcium. Use a plastic medicine dropper or needleless syringe & put drops on her nose which she will hopefully lick off. It may take a few minutes for her to get the idea but once she tastes it, she should really like it. The meat babyfood will help get some protein into her & the vegetable will give her some nutrition.
Please post some pictures so we can take a look at her setup. Hopefully we can help her get stronger. Would be a good idea to get a fecal checked for parasites once you get some food into her so you can get a poop sample.
It is DEFINITELY NOT brumation as a 6 1/2" beardie is way too young to brumate. Something else is definitely going on.Please follow this link and download some pictures, then put the [XIMG] link here. We would need to see the bulbs you're using and their placement as well as pics of your baby. https://www.beardeddragon.org/useruploads/
Have you been misting her on her nose or offering drops of water on her nose for her to lick off? If not, please do that as if a baby is dehydrated, it can go downhill VERY quickly.
Are you using a UVB bulb? If so, please post pics of it or give us the brand & type. It is a necessity to have a good one.
Sounds like you have a digital thermometer with a long wire & probe end, is that right? If so, place the probe end right on the basking spot & then wait about 45 minutes and then give us the final basking SURFACE temp. Then place the probe way over on the bottom of the cool side & wait the same amount of time and then post the cool side temp for us.
Since she's not eating, you need to get some food into her. Pick up some chicken or turkey babyfood as well as some squash or sweet potato babyfood. Mix some of the meat & vegetable together, add a little water & a small pinch of calcium. Use a plastic medicine dropper or needleless syringe & put drops on her nose which she will hopefully lick off. It may take a few minutes for her to get the idea but once she tastes it, she should really like it. The meat babyfood will help get some protein into her & the vegetable will give her some nutrition.
Please post some pictures so we can take a look at her setup. Hopefully we can help her get stronger. Would be a good idea to get a fecal checked for parasites once you get some food into her so you can get a poop sample.
diamc":3exjahgi said:Oh dear, how scary for you seeing your baby beardie act like that.
Please follow this link and download some pictures, then put the [XIMG] link here. We would need to see the bulbs you're using and their placement as well as pics of your baby. https://www.beardeddragon.org/useruploads/
Have you been misting her on her nose or offering drops of water on her nose for her to lick off? If not, please do that as if a baby is dehydrated, it can go downhill VERY quickly.
Are you using a UVB bulb? If so, please post pics of it or give us the brand & type. It is a necessity to have a good one.
Sounds like you have a digital thermometer with a long wire & probe end, is that right? If so, place the probe end right on the basking spot & then wait about 45 minutes and then give us the final basking SURFACE temp. Then place the probe way over on the bottom of the cool side & wait the same amount of time and then post the cool side temp for us.
Since she's not eating, you need to get some food into her. Pick up some chicken or turkey babyfood as well as some squash or sweet potato babyfood. Mix some of the meat & vegetable together, add a little water & a small pinch of calcium. Use a plastic medicine dropper or needleless syringe & put drops on her nose which she will hopefully lick off. It may take a few minutes for her to get the idea but once she tastes it, she should really like it. The meat babyfood will help get some protein into her & the vegetable will give her some nutrition.
Please post some pictures so we can take a look at her setup. Hopefully we can help her get stronger. Would be a good idea to get a fecal checked for parasites once you get some food into her so you can get a poop sample.
I don't know how to post pics on here but yes I am using a UVB bulb and her thermometer is placed on her basking area, right now the temp is 92.1 and yes I give her water with a dropper a lot during the day and she has a water bowl she knows how to drink out of cause I trained her for when I'm not there and she's thirsty. She still hasn't moved around on her own that much but she has lifted her head and body up a little bit 3 times so far right now she's actually standing on her front legs not laying completely flat but her eyes are still closed. I tried your medicine dropper idea but she wouldn't take it so I tried force feeding her baby food, I got a little in her mouth but I got too scared I was gonna break her jaw because of how weak and skinny she looks right now. Her fat pads have sunken in and I notice from time to time she'll start breathing really heavy. If you can give me directions on how to post a pic and or video I will send you a pic of her cage set up and if her
Please follow this link and download some pictures, then put the [XIMG] link here. We would need to see the bulbs you're using and their placement as well as pics of your baby. https://www.beardeddragon.org/useruploads/
What UVB light do you have? Brand, model, and type, meaning a compact or coil bulb, or a long, florescent tube? This could be and probably is the problem, if you're using a compact or coil bulb (shaped like a regular light bulb or a coil that fits into a regular light bulb fixture) they are horrible. They not only hurt their eyes and skin badly (probably why she won't go under the light) but they don't emit the correct wavelength or amount of UVB for bearded dragons. So that means they can't process any nutrition, specifically calcium and D3. When you said she won't go under the lights and she hides in the dark it was a red flag.
You need to go out immediately to Petco or PetSmart and buy a Reptisun 10.0 T5 florescent tube light. At Petco or PetSmart it will cost you around $37 just for the bulb, should be an 18" tube. Then go to Walmart and buy an 18" florescent fixture, they cost about $10. I'd tell you to save some money and order one online at Pet Mountain, but I doubt your beardie has that long. And DO NOT buy the Reptisun 5.0 T5 18" tube light, that's typically the other Reptisun tube bulb they have at Petco and it costs less, around $25 and is in a red package, but it's for other reptiles and doesn't emit the correct UVB for bearded dragons, and will not help her at all. She needs the Reptisun 10.0 T5 in the YELLOW package that costs $37-$39.
You need to go out immediately to Petco or PetSmart and buy a Reptisun 10.0 T5 florescent tube light. At Petco or PetSmart it will cost you around $37 just for the bulb, should be an 18" tube. Then go to Walmart and buy an 18" florescent fixture, they cost about $10. I'd tell you to save some money and order one online at Pet Mountain, but I doubt your beardie has that long. And DO NOT buy the Reptisun 5.0 T5 18" tube light, that's typically the other Reptisun tube bulb they have at Petco and it costs less, around $25 and is in a red package, but it's for other reptiles and doesn't emit the correct UVB for bearded dragons, and will not help her at all. She needs the Reptisun 10.0 T5 in the YELLOW package that costs $37-$39.
In the meantime, assuming you don't go and get the correct UVB light which you need to do now, if you can take her outside in the sun as soon as it's possible weather wise to do so. Do not put her in anything like a tank or container, just hold her, I don't think she's going to run off. She needs proper UVB light ASAP.
kingofnobbys
BD.org Sicko
Pogonda":1upub6o6 said:My bearded dragon is about 6.5 in and I got her for Christmas well that was 4 months ago and since then she hasn't shed or gotten bigger <<<< that makes her perhaps 5 months old maybe 6 months old.
She should have grown heaps in that time if she had correct heating , UVA , UVB , dietary calcium and food (insect protein) intake in that time.
At 5 weeks old
Peppa (F) was 13.1g
Toothless (M) was 11g
at 6 weeks old
Puff (M) was 8g
Rex (F) was 7g
At 5 months old
Peppa was 191.0g
Toothless was 137.1g (Peppa and Toothless were always housed separately)
Puff was 120.8g
Rex was 148.3 (dominating Puff , Puff and Rex were sharing a tank).
As you can see if heat and UV and feeding and lighting schedules are all good your little hatchling will have grown enormously over the last 4 months.
At 5 months old Peppa and Toothless were voracious insect eaters, eating up to 30 medium crickets each per day split between a morning and a late afternoon meal + greens .
If the UV light is not adequate the following will happen :
>>> short term insufficient UVA exposure will result in low energy and very poor appetite.
>>> longer term insufficient UVA results in neurological problems
>>> short term insufficient UVB will result a failure to thrive / grow as any dietary calcium will not be properly metabolized so she wont be able to create tissues and grow
>>> longer term insufficient UVB will result in low density bones and MVB as well.
Is very important that (MANDATORY) that she have access to extremely high levels of UVA and UVB from a UVB source rates AT LEAST 10%UVB (and 30%UVA), and she be exposed to this for AT LEAST 14-15 hrs per day.
Please check your UV light and as we need to know :
<<< the type of UVB source ie
is it a compact (brand , wattage , %UVB rating and distance from basking spot) ?
is it a tube (brand, T8 or T5 , and %UVB rating and distance from basking spot) ?
is it a MVB (wattage and distance from basking spot) ?
If it's a compact or tube, is it mounted ontop of a mesh lid (BAD), or is there a plastic cover over it (TERRIBLE) ?
How old is the UV source ?
Is there a reflector behind it ?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> if inadequate UVA and UVB are the cause, this is easy fixed and she should respond well in a relatively short time if fixed.
Also
What has the lighting schedule (basking globe and UVB source) been (time on , time off) ?
What is the feeding routine and what are feeding her (what insects , how many) ?
>>> if you were given bad advice on what and how many insects to feed her in the first place by the seller / pet shop , it is likely she is malnarished and not getting the food she needs to grow and be energetic.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> this is fixable too. But you are likely going to need to get her onto a mostly liquid / pureed / enhanced diet to build her back up for a while before she has the energy and strength to feed properly.
He looks too frail to actually chase and catch any live insects.
SHe should have been on at least TWO MEALS OF LIVE HIGH QUALITY INSECTS (THREE IS BETTER) AT 5 months OLD, I suspect a lot of the issue may be malnutrition (insufficient dietary calcium and insect protein + too cold to digest any food he was given + no UVA and no UVB).
This is one sick little hatchling , but She can recover and start to thrive with THREE LIVE INSECT MEALS PER DAY (IF HE CAN CATCH BUGS - UNLIKELY AT THIS TIME) or by being FORCED FED THREE TIMES PER DAY using something like HERPABOOST, or CARNIVORE CRITICAL CARE ór BUGPIE made as a slurry and given to her by feeding syringe and crop/feeding needle , you''ll likely need to give her liquid calcium daily orally by syringe (something like CALCIVET).
You can likely get HERPABOOST (or it's equivalent from a good reptile vet) , see http://www.vetnpetdirect.com.au/vetafarm_herpaboost
CALCIVET from a good petshop maybe (or the vet) , see http://www.vetnpetdirect.com.au/vetafarm_calcivet_liquid_calcium_supplement ,
she needs this in order to get his calcium levels up as dusting her insects will be too hit and miss for him at the present, and so she can produce the needed VitD on exposure to HIGH INTENSITY UVB (AT LEAST 10% from the MVB, or compact (26W UVB200 is minimum for your tank size, placed about 6-8 inches from her basking spot (on the ground as she's too frail to climb safely
I think Oxbow Carnivore Critical Care is only available from vet see
http://www.oxbowanimalhealth.com/products/type/detail?object=1609
BugPie can be bought from good pet shops or by mailorder see
https://www.store.repashy.com/by-product-name-en/grub-pie-reptile-en/ , made from BSF maggots and so naturally high in calcium and protein.
Crop Feeding Needles are available from good pet shop or from your vet see
http://www.vetnpetdirect.com.au/crop_medication_needles_birds?size=348
Feeding syringes are available from good pet shops or your vet see
http://www.vetnpetdirect.com.au/reusable_feeding_syringe_birds?volume=95
I have attached an image of how to use crop needles to feed a lizard :
SHe only has a very small capacity stomach , so you will likely be giving her 1 - 4 ml / 100g of bodyweight, so if he only weighs 10g that meals 0.1 - 0.4ml ) of liquid/slurry/pureed food / food supplement per feed and will likely need to use 14Gauge or 12Gauge crop / feeding needle. The vet or their nursing staff can show you how to do this if you ask them to .
Probably a good idea to let the vet care for him for a week or so to get her started under intensive care.
It will take a while (several weeks) to fatten hER upo and get hER to the point where She is able to cope with catching and eating insects like roaches and crickets, I'd start him off on BSF maggots or small (1.5 inch) silkworms , these are soft and slow moving and very easy for little sick lizard to digest.
She needs to kept warm 24/7 >> daytime warm zone about 30oCelsius, basking spot about 40-42oCelsius, overnight warmer than 24oCelsius (I'd go 26oCelsius to help him digest his food and boost his immune system).
she's in a 40 gallon tank her temperature stays around 90-100 and she was very active when though she wasn't growing well recently she's been sleeping all day and barely eaten (yesterday she ate 8 crickets and I thought she was gonna start getting over whatever is happening but she won't eat anything) she won't bask and she stay in the cool area.
<<<< can you upload photos using XIMG so we can see your set up , something obvious may stick out like sore thumb to us a likely cause or concern or risk to her health if we can her set up.
Every time I put her in her basking spot she perks up and gets all wide eyes and starts moving trying to get away from the light/heat and she opens up her mouth like she's getting too hot. She looks so skinny right now and weak tonight when I got home I found her laying in her own poop and my heart sunk because I have no clue how long she had been like that so picked her up and gave her a bath and she kinda did the same thing she was doing with her light she peeked up and tried to run and opened her mouth and this is just scaring me I just want her to eat and be active so if anyone has any idea of what is going on please help btw I don't think is brumation bc it's not cold in fact it's just starting to get warm.
The fact that she perks up at her basking spot is a good sign, gaping means she's feeling too hot. So as already suggested , you need to check your tank temperatures with a good thermometer . A young hatchling can not cope very long if it's tanks is too hot and it can not find a way to thermoregulate.
She is NOT in brumation.
Both these have been outlined in others' responses.
She does need to be assessed by a vet, if she needs food suppliments and special feeding gear so you can force feeder her suppliments to her , they will have these.
Hope she isn't seriously ill.
I hope once you assimilated the information I've provided she comes good perhaps with help from your vet.
EllenD":28jpdz7i said:
I don't have a UVB bulb that look like a regular bulb. I can't remember the name of it and I don't have the box it came in. The one I have now is long and it has like two U shaped bulbs on it https://www.beardeddragon.org/useruploads/#new
As you see in the pics Her cage is a little all over the place right now bc I had to move her tree (her tree was the place where she would using sit on and bask) because every time I placed her on the tree she would perk up and like try to get away from it by jumping and I didn't want her to hurt herself plus she needed to be in the light so I figured if I placed one of her rocks down and placed her on top of that she wouldn't try to run
kingofnobbys":3tawyaaj said:Pogonda":3tawyaaj said:My bearded dragon is about 6.5 in and I got her for Christmas well that was 4 months ago and since then she hasn't shed or gotten bigger <<<< that makes her perhaps 5 months old maybe 6 months old.
She should have grown heaps in that time if she had correct heating , UVA , UVB , dietary calcium and food (insect protein) intake in that time.
At 5 weeks old
Peppa (F) was 13.1g
Toothless (M) was 11g
at 6 weeks old
Puff (M) was 8g
Rex (F) was 7g
At 5 months old
Peppa was 191.0g
Toothless was 137.1g (Peppa and Toothless were always housed separately)
Puff was 120.8g
Rex was 148.3 (dominating Puff , Puff and Rex were sharing a tank).
As you can see if heat and UV and feeding and lighting schedules are all good your little hatchling will have grown enormously over the last 4 months.
At 5 months old Peppa and Toothless were voracious insect eaters, eating up to 30 medium crickets each per day split between a morning and a late afternoon meal + greens .
If the UV light is not adequate the following will happen :
>>> short term insufficient UVA exposure will result in low energy and very poor appetite.
>>> longer term insufficient UVA results in neurological problems
>>> short term insufficient UVB will result a failure to thrive / grow as any dietary calcium will not be properly metabolized so she wont be able to create tissues and grow
>>> longer term insufficient UVB will result in low density bones and MVB as well.
Is very important that (MANDATORY) that she have access to extremely high levels of UVA and UVB from a UVB source rates AT LEAST 10%UVB (and 30%UVA), and she be exposed to this for AT LEAST 14-15 hrs per day.
Please check your UV light and as we need to know :
<<< the type of UVB source ie
is it a compact (brand , wattage , %UVB rating and distance from basking spot) ?
is it a tube (brand, T8 or T5 , and %UVB rating and distance from basking spot) ?
is it a MVB (wattage and distance from basking spot) ?
If it's a compact or tube, is it mounted ontop of a mesh lid (BAD), or is there a plastic cover over it (TERRIBLE) ?
How old is the UV source ?
Is there a reflector behind it ?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> if inadequate UVA and UVB are the cause, this is easy fixed and she should respond well in a relatively short time if fixed.
Also
What has the lighting schedule (basking globe and UVB source) been (time on , time off) ?
What is the feeding routine and what are feeding her (what insects , how many) ?
>>> if you were given bad advice on what and how many insects to feed her in the first place by the seller / pet shop , it is likely she is malnarished and not getting the food she needs to grow and be energetic.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> this is fixable too. But you are likely going to need to get her onto a mostly liquid / pureed / enhanced diet to build her back up for a while before she has the energy and strength to feed properly.
He looks too frail to actually chase and catch any live insects.
SHe should have been on at least TWO MEALS OF LIVE HIGH QUALITY INSECTS (THREE IS BETTER) AT 5 months OLD, I suspect a lot of the issue may be malnutrition (insufficient dietary calcium and insect protein + too cold to digest any food he was given + no UVA and no UVB).
This is one sick little hatchling , but She can recover and start to thrive with THREE LIVE INSECT MEALS PER DAY (IF HE CAN CATCH BUGS - UNLIKELY AT THIS TIME) or by being FORCED FED THREE TIMES PER DAY using something like HERPABOOST, or CARNIVORE CRITICAL CARE ór BUGPIE made as a slurry and given to her by feeding syringe and crop/feeding needle , you''ll likely need to give her liquid calcium daily orally by syringe (something like CALCIVET).
You can likely get HERPABOOST (or it's equivalent from a good reptile vet) , see http://www.vetnpetdirect.com.au/vetafarm_herpaboost
CALCIVET from a good petshop maybe (or the vet) , see http://www.vetnpetdirect.com.au/vetafarm_calcivet_liquid_calcium_supplement ,
she needs this in order to get his calcium levels up as dusting her insects will be too hit and miss for him at the present, and so she can produce the needed VitD on exposure to HIGH INTENSITY UVB (AT LEAST 10% from the MVB, or compact (26W UVB200 is minimum for your tank size, placed about 6-8 inches from her basking spot (on the ground as she's too frail to climb safely
I think Oxbow Carnivore Critical Care is only available from vet see
http://www.oxbowanimalhealth.com/products/type/detail?object=1609
BugPie can be bought from good pet shops or by mailorder see
https://www.store.repashy.com/by-product-name-en/grub-pie-reptile-en/ , made from BSF maggots and so naturally high in calcium and protein.
Crop Feeding Needles are available from good pet shop or from your vet see
http://www.vetnpetdirect.com.au/crop_medication_needles_birds?size=348
Feeding syringes are available from good pet shops or your vet see
http://www.vetnpetdirect.com.au/reusable_feeding_syringe_birds?volume=95
I have attached an image of how to use crop needles to feed a lizard :
SHe only has a very small capacity stomach , so you will likely be giving her 1 - 4 ml / 100g of bodyweight, so if he only weighs 10g that meals 0.1 - 0.4ml ) of liquid/slurry/pureed food / food supplement per feed and will likely need to use 14Gauge or 12Gauge crop / feeding needle. The vet or their nursing staff can show you how to do this if you ask them to .
Probably a good idea to let the vet care for him for a week or so to get him started under intensive care.
It will take a while (several weeks) to fatten hER upo and get hER to the point where She is able to cope with catching and eating insects like roaches and crickets, I'd start him off on BSF maggots or small (1.5 inch) silkworms , these are soft and slow moving and very easy for little sick lizard to digest.
She needs to kept warm 24/7 >> daytime warm zone about 30oCelsius, basking spot about 40-42oCelsius, overnight warmer than 24oCelsius (I'd go 26oCelsius to help him digest his food and boost his immune system).
she's in a 40 gallon tank her temperature stays around 90-100 and she was very active when though she wasn't growing well recently she's been sleeping all day and barely eaten (yesterday she ate 8 crickets and I thought she was gonna start getting over whatever is happening but she won't eat anything) she won't bask and she stay in the cool area.
<<<< can you upload photos using XIMG so we can see your set up , something obvious may stick out like sore thumb to us a likely cause or concern or risk to her health if we can her set up.
Every time I put her in her basking spot she perks up and gets all wide eyes and starts moving trying to get away from the light/heat and she opens up her mouth like she's getting too hot. She looks so skinny right now and weak tonight when I got home I found her laying in her own poop and my heart sunk because I have no clue how long she had been like that so picked her up and gave her a bath and she kinda did the same thing she was doing with her light she peeked up and tried to run and opened her mouth and this is just scaring me I just want her to eat and be active so if anyone has any idea of what is going on please help btw I don't think is brumation bc it's not cold in fact it's just starting to get warm.
https://www.beardeddragon.org/useruploads/#new
Her cage is a little all over the place right now bc I had to move her tree (her tree was the place where she would using sit on and bask) because every time I placed her on the tree she would perk up and like try to get away from it by jumping and I didn't want her to hurt herself plus she needed to be in the light so I figured if I placed one of her rocks down and placed her on top of that she wouldn't try to run
Gormagon
Extreme Poster
Coil compact bulbs do not provide proper uvb levels for dragons, they can cause eye irritation, eye infections and/or blindness in some cases. Without proper uvb, they can't metabolize the much needed nutrients from their food, causing lethargy, weight loss and, over all poor health.
Here are two examples of what the bulbs look like that, you SHOULD NOT USE:
This is the one I use, it provides uvb at good levels(as close as artificially possible)
Here are two examples of what the bulbs look like that, you SHOULD NOT USE:
This is the one I use, it provides uvb at good levels(as close as artificially possible)
- Status
Latest resources
-
General Care Practical tips: A healthy brumating bearded dragonPractical tips to help keep your bearded dragon healthy during brumation
- Shinryu
- Updated:
-
-
Lighting Beginner Guide to Bearded Dragon LightingA basic lighting setup for any bearded dragon.
- Shinryu
- Updated:
-
Lighting Introduction to UV LightingMake a more educated purchase on your next UVB light.
- Shinryu
- Updated:
-
General Care Bearded Dragons - Care SheetAn all-in-one guide to caring for your bearded dragons.
- Shinryu
- Updated:
Latest profile posts
I just walked into my room and instead of looking at me, Swordtail's eyes darted directly to the ice cream drumstick I'm holding
What is a quick way to warm up a cold beardie? His heating element went out overnight and now he's very cold.