Smaller bearded dragon dehydrated,shedding, and not eating

So I have two bearded dragons. One is a few weeks older then the other one, and obviously bigger. My smaller one has become dehydrated, and isn't eating properly. I know his shedding has some to do with the eating but it is bad. I've read on numerous posts that you shouldn't house two bearded dragons together. These two have been together since day one.. They have their own separate heating source along with uvb lighting. Also have their own trees to climb on under their heat lights. Never see any issue with them in the tanks. Also whenever you have then out the little one climbs on top of the big one and just relaxes.
My question though is how do I get my bearded back to rehydration and back to eating?? I've waited 10years to get my hypo trans bearded and I don't wanna see him sick and die.. Any advice would greatly help

Note: I have called the vet but they can't see Zeus till end of next week also have tried syringe for water.

Its not what you want to hear, but seperating them is very likely to help.

For now, try to hydrate however you can. E.g. mix water, greens and bee pollen in a syringe and encourage him to lick.

It is absolutely due to them being housed together, you are the second post of this nature I've commented on today, the other two were together for 4 years, and as soon as the OP separated them the smaller, sick beardie started becoming more active and eating almost immediately, that's how stressed your beardie is and has been it's entire life. They don't lie on top of each other out of love, they certainly don't relax while doing it. Only humans think things like this, the truth is that they are solitary animals and in the wild they live completely alone and never come together except to mate.

Any time someone has 2 bearded dragons housed together, no matter if they've been together without any violence for a week or 5 years, and one dragon is thriving while the other is smaller and sickly, lethargic, and loses their appetite, it's because the larger dragon has been dominating the smaller one in every way. It makes no difference if they both have their own UVB light or basking light, they absolutely cannot be housed together! And if you already have 2 UVB lights and 2 basking lights then you're ready to separate them immediately!

You need to find a plastic tub about a 50L or larger to use as a temporary enclosure for the bigger, healthy dragon until you can buy him his own permanent enclosure. MOVE THE BIGGER, HEALTHY, DOMINATE BEARDIE OUT OF THE ENCLOSURE THEY'VE BEEN IN, NOT THE SMALLER, SICK, SUBMISSIVE BEARDIE! The sick dragon has been totally stressed out and cannot deal with relocation stress right now, the larger dominate beardie can, and he can go a week or so without any UVB too. You need to put a basking light over the temporary plastic tub so he has heat until you get the second enclosure set up. And they must be either in different rooms or the enclosures need to be stacked on top of each other so that they can't see each other again, nor can they be outside of their enclosures together, not even supervised, because they are at the point where the dominant beardie is going to start attacking the other one. It takes only one good bite to the head and that's it, your Trans Hypo beardie will be dead. This happens all the time, at least a couple posts a week, and as soon as they are separated the poor little stressed out beardie starts thriving...

Please take our advice, this isn't a choice if you don't want your beardie to either become so stressed that he actually starves to death, or your larger, dominate beardie finally decides it's time to take a bite out of him, and then you have a dead dragon or a permanently disabled dragon. Immediately get the larger dragon out of that enclosure right now, don't wait around any longer.

You'll see marked improvement in your beardie within a day or so of separating them, barring that your lighting is adequate and proper, and your temperatures are correct. And if you still doubt that this is his issue, the key is that they both live in the same tank and one is thriving and growing while the other is stunted and sickly. If it was a bacterial infection, a fungal infection, parasites or worms, Adenovirus, etc. they would both be sick. And since they both have the same lighting and temps, and the same diet and supplements, there's no other reason for one to be growing normally and one to be stunted and smaller.

DEFINITELY MOVE THEM IMMEDIATELY!! Once you've done that and your smaller beardie has kind of gotten used to it you can give them a bath to help rehydrate it. You can also syringe feed it.

As much as I hate having to separate, I'm going to have to take the advice and do so.. Only problem left though is how do I get my little guy to drink something now he is alone?? I've taking the other one out for several hrs before and I still couldn't get Zeus to drink. I've tried the syringe and dropping on his mouth but just keeps it shut. I've but him in the water bowl (big enough for him to swim) and still he won't drink..

last week now

Awh he's really cute. But way too skinny. His tail might be shedding too I think

Bearded dragons get their hydration from their food, typically they don't drink out of bowls at all, some will drink during a bath but most don't (they do not absorb water through their vents while in a bath, so if you've heard that it's a silly myth), and dropping water on their snouts seems to be the best method. But the main issue here is he needs to eat many more live insects per day, which he should start doing if you have permanently separated them. You cannot just take the big one out for a while and put him back in, he needs to not ever see the other one again, no joke. People stack their separate enclosures on top of each other so that they cannot see each other anymore.

He just needs a few days of being in his own enclosure and not stressed, and he'll start eating normally and basking. He should be given 3 live insect feeding sessions per day, where you feed him as many insects as he wants to eat in a 10-15 minute period, up until 6-8 months old, then it can be cut to 2 live insect feeding sessions per day. He's quite skinny now so he's obviously not getting fluids either, but he will once he starts eating.

Keep offering drops of water on his snout several times a day, hopefully he'll start licking it off, drip again, lick, etc. But the main thing right now is getting them permanently separated and not having contact ever again. Then start offering the 3 live insect feeding sessions per day. He'll be fine soon.

The smaller one should begin doing better once separated as stated.

He's actually not skinny at all, just a younger dragon , from that pic very well proportioned.

They are separated now. I don't have a tank for the other yet but I've left Zeus in the 40gal by himself now. He has became a very picky eater over time. I was feeding him 5 times a day since still juvenile and offering fruit(which he has no interest, but Rose loves it and eats out my hand). When I can get him to eat here in last few days it is only the spotted roaches(as I can't get dubia roaches here) and super worms. Doesn't like crickets anymore and I'm not sure why. Hopefully, now they're apart I hope he comes back around... Also, how comes y'all say they cannot see each other anymore? What about when it comes to time to mate??

My beardie drinks in the bath. Plus it might help with shedding. Best thing is to seperate them and go form there

It's just to keep them from becoming stressed....seeing other will do that because they don't understand that the other one can't get it through the glass.

If + when you breed them they can be put together while you supervise, when they are adults.

I know. I'm talking about the bath. But in the wild they breed then leave so that's what happens in captivity.

And I was answering the o.p's question about why someone suggested that they should not see each other.

I appreciate everyones feedback. I'll update as time goes on..