Lol. Below is basically what I got from articles in this site and my reptile vet.
Heat:
You can hang your heat emitter so long as your dragon can’t touch it (or you for that matter. I got my arm burnt when cleaning and so did my 9 year old son. We both learnt
)
Thus it’s recommended to put your heat emitter inside a protective cage, which you can buy from Animates (refer to photo). You don’t need to have your basking area raised. I had a flat rack slab that did the trick. But swift tail (my dragon) loves climbing.
I have my ceramic heat emitter on ALL the time, day and night. This keeps the basking area consistently at 41 degrees C, and as it has no lights, it won’t disturb the dragon. Remember to have a cool area, mine is around 25 degrees C.
Feeding:
I feed him live crickets for 6 days a week dusted with calcium and 1 day per week dusted with vitamin powder. Crickets I get from this site
https://www.inzectdirect.co.nz/ and it’s couried to my place every Tuesday. You get parasites from crickets if they are caught outside. Getting from a trusted source is key. I put the crickets in a 40L storage bin and gut load them (meaning I feed them carrots, squash and basically feed them the same veges as I feed my dragon). I then put about 15-20 crickets in a container with calcium and shake it a bit. Then I have a separate container to feed him in, those storage bins from the warehouse, Mitre10 or bunnings will do. This keeps vivarium very clean. I leave him in there for 15 minutes to chase down crickets, then put him back. He will eat about 15-20 crickets a day. I try not to hand feed him (as a lot of owners do) because I want him to keep his natural hunting instinct to stimulate him.
Veterinarian said can’t overdose doing it this way.
I used to give my dragon freezed dried crickets and he loved them. But very expensive this way and I have a feeling they might be missing something, despite the labels stating they are gut loaded. You doing a mix is a good idea. Oh, by the way...good luck with your pellets
. I still have a full jar of them. He (and many dragons) doesn’t like them.
I feed him Veges everyday NOT dusted with vitamins or calcium as this will risk overdosing on vitamins and apparently lose their palette ability (or something like that
). I put Veges in the morning before work and clean up when I get back. This way, he DOES munch on it throughout the day.
There are a whole range of Veges you can feed everyday, some occasional and some never. Please look up the article on this site as a lot of illnesses are due to wrong diet. Basically I feed everyday is butternut squash, water cress and Witloof (Americans call them Endives). Squash you can get from local supermarkets but the others I can only get from Farrels special veg shop.
Dragons need to be misted with Luke warm water every day and bathed once a week. I leave mine in
bath for 15 minutes and ensure water level covers his vent (as that’s one way of them taking in water), but obviously not pass his neck. Misting I do outside viviarium so humidity does rise (technical I know). I mist his nose and sometimes he laps it up, and sometimes he don’t. I don’t have a water bowl in his vivarium as he doesn’t drink anyway and risk of him pooping in it and then
drinking. My dragon is well
hydrated according to the vet.
Don’t be worried if your dragon doesn’t eat in first few days. Mined had stress black lines and no appetite in first few days as moving in is stressful. But some dragons will settle in fast.
Again, any questions, anytime.
Protective Heat Cage for heat emitter: