New! Please help!

Hi my name is tangy and I just got a baby. Please yell at me about what I'm doing wrong, I want to do my best for it (not sexed). I just got it home tonight, the setup isn't ideal, but it's what I've got. It's about 3 months old. I have a little tank, with a little food bowl and a little water bowl, and a ceramic bowl I used to make a den and a place to get warm. I used a desk lamp tonight to heat up the tank, and now I have a human heating pad pressed against the side to keep the baby warm. I have sand in the tank, which I read is bad and will fix in the morning. I want to do my very best for this little guy, I just don't have much money. My job kinda sucks right now. Please give me advice and help me out. For my baby. Thanks ?

The most critical thing that will make or break this animal’s health is a quality UV light. You cannot afford to put this off—I recommend you immediately order a Reptisun T5 10.0 HO or an Arcadia D3 12% tube and fixture with a reflector (you can use a fixture sold by these companies or a Sunblaster, which you can order on Amazon). You also need a basking bulb, which will be the central source of heat. If you get a basking bulb from a pet shop try to avoid ones with a neodymium coating. Many members (myself included) use halogen flood lights as basking lights. A 45 watt or 75 watt is usually sufficient (it depends on how well your cage retains heat, the height of the cage, etc.). It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you measure the basking surface temperatures with a temp gun after installing a new heat bulb before allowing the lizard back into the cage. Example: when I was first attempting to figure out what wattage flood bulb would work best in my enclosures, I first tried a 75 watt flood light and after taking basking surface temperatures with my temp gun I was shocked to realize the surface temp was 150 degrees (lethal!). I went down to a 45 watt halogen flood light and the temperature was perfect for my adult beardie (between 95-105 degrees). So again, always measure temperatures with a temp gun and make sure it’s safe before putting your baby back in the cage.Those plastic stick on thermometers on the wall of a cage give absolutely no indication of what the basking surface temperature is, so it’s vital to always take temperatures with a reliable temp gun (I like the Zoomed digital temp gun available at Amazon and Petco for around $20). Right now whatever light (I think you said a desk lamp) you have over the tank could be under heating or severely overheating it, and unless you’ve got a temp gun there’s no way of knowing, so there’s an urgency here. Beardies don’t require undertank heaters—just a good heat bulb from above. Hopefully your cage is on the large size (you can get away with a smaller cage when they’re babies, but the smaller the cage, the harder it is to get a good temperature gradient). You want his basking surface temperature to be between 100-110 (no hotter) if he’s a baby. They need this specific temperature to digest/metabolize food, so it’s crucial to get this right. And they need strong UV light for growth and wellbeing, so this is another issue that must be addressed immediately. Please refer to the lighting guide article on this site for more detailed information on why these two elements are so important and which brands/models are proven safe and effective. Many of the UV lights sold in pet stores are cheap and ineffective, emitting virtually no UV, so avoid the temptation to cut corners here. Mounted at the recommended distance, the two UV tubes mentioned can last up to a year and have the high UV output these desert animals require to be healthy. How large is your tank? It is extremely difficult to achieve a proper heat gradient with tiny tanks (remember you also need a cool side). If you have pictures of your setup, that would be great. But so far you need to:
1. Get a temp gun. Ensure basking temps are safe and between 100-110.
2. Get a proper basking bulb.
3. Get a quality UV light.
4. Potentially get a larger tank if the current size is too small to get an adequate heat gradient.
Amazon and Drsfosterandsmith.com usually have good deals on Reptisun T5 10.0 tubes and fixtures, as well as temp guns.
Having a proper basking temperatures and effective UV lights aren’t things you can put off, so please address ASAP. If you have questions on diet, substrate, etc., feel free to ask. No one’s going to yell at you for trying to find out how best to care for your beardie. Just make sure you take the advice you receive to heart. And check out the care sheets and what to buy articles on this website. They elaborate on some of the elements we just touched on in greater detail.

PodunkKhaleesi":a365l3j8 said:

The most critical thing that will make or break this animal’s health is a quality UV light. You cannot afford to put this off—I recommend you immediately order a Reptisun T5 10.0 HO or an Arcadia D3 12% tube and fixture with a reflector (you can use a fixture sold by these companies or a Sunblaster, which you can order on Amazon). You also need a basking bulb, which will be the central source of heat. If you get a basking bulb from a pet shop try to avoid ones with a neodymium coating. Many members (myself included) use halogen flood lights as basking lights. A 45 watt or 75 watt is usually sufficient (it depends on how well your cage retains heat, the height of the cage, etc.). It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you measure the basking surface temperatures with a temp gun after installing a new heat bulb before allowing the lizard back into the cage. Example: when I was first attempting to figure out what wattage flood bulb would work best in my enclosures, I first tried a 75 watt flood light and after taking basking surface temperatures with my temp gun I was shocked to realize the surface temp was 150 degrees (lethal!). I went down to a 45 watt halogen flood light and the temperature was perfect for my adult beardie (between 95-105 degrees). So again, always measure temperatures with a temp gun and make sure it’s safe before putting your baby back in the cage.Those plastic stick on thermometers on the wall of a cage give absolutely no indication of what the basking surface temperature is, so it’s vital to always take temperatures with a reliable temp gun (I like the Zoomed digital temp gun available at Amazon and Petco for around $20). Right now whatever light (I think you said a desk lamp) you have over the tank could be under heating or severely overheating it, and unless you’ve got a temp gun there’s no way of knowing, so there’s an urgency here. Beardies don’t require undertank heaters—just a good heat bulb from above. Hopefully your cage is on the large size (you can get away with a smaller cage when they’re babies, but the smaller the cage, the harder it is to get a good temperature gradient). You want his basking surface temperature to be between 100-110 (no hotter) if he’s a baby. They need this specific temperature to digest/metabolize food, so it’s crucial to get this right. And they need strong UV light for growth and wellbeing, so this is another issue that must be addressed immediately. Please refer to the lighting guide article on this site for more detailed information on why these two elements are so important and which brands/models are proven safe and effective. Many of the UV lights sold in pet stores are cheap and ineffective, emitting virtually no UV, so avoid the temptation to cut corners here. Mounted at the recommended distance, the two UV tubes mentioned can last up to a year and have the high UV output these desert animals require to be healthy. How large is your tank? It is extremely difficult to achieve a proper heat gradient with tiny tanks (remember you also need a cool side). If you have pictures of your setup, that would be great. But so far you need to:
1. Get a temp gun. Ensure basking temps are safe and between 100-110.
2. Get a proper basking bulb.
3. Get a proper UV light.
4. Potentially get a larger tank.
Amazon and Drsfosterandsmith.com usually have good deals on Reptisun T5 10.0 tubes and fixtures, as well as temp guns.
Having a proper basking temperatures and effective UV lights aren’t things you can put off, so please address ASAP. If you have questions on diet, substrate, etc., feel free to ask. No one’s going to yell at you for trying to find out how best to care for your beardie. Just make sure you take the advice you receive to heart. And check out the care sheets and what to buy articles on this website. They elaborate on some of the elements we just touched on in greater detail.

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I can afford about $40 this week until my next paycheck, so what would you say is the most most important and what can wait until next week? And where can I find these things? Sorry if you already said it, there's a crisis right now with family and my comprehension is dead

Ok I've redone the tank with paper towels, since I saw that sand was bad for babies but paper towels were ok

Good job ditching the sand.
Oh, man...the $40 budget is a bit of a Sophie’s Choice because UV and heat are both so essential. But because a basking bulb doesn’t have to be a pricey model sold at a pet store (in many cases the flood bulbs that have worked well for many members were purchased for $5 at Home Depot and they’re very bright and heat efficient), you should focus your very limited budget on ensuring the cage temps are safe and get a temp gun (here’s an example: https://m.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=24294). If you get both these items they’ll ship them for free. But you’ll still need a fixture for the UV light, unfortunately. Ideally this would be a Sunblaster or another fixture with a built in reflector, but since we’re toward the top of your budget already, you can get by with an $8 fixture from Walmart for now if push comes to shove. If you click on the lighting guide on this website, you’ll see a tank setup that uses one of these.
So those three items would be my vital picks. If the cage is very small (and I’m still not sure what size it is) it will be extremely difficult to have a gradient (a hot side and a cool side). You generally want a UV tube to stretch across at least half the tank, but it’s good to have an area where the beardie can avoid the UV light when he’s so inclined (which is also why it’s good to provide hides/caves so he can seek shelter or security when he wants privacy). The cool side should be between 75 - 85 degrees F, and it’s very difficult to have a hot and a cool side if the tank is tiny. If the tank size doesn’t allow this, do you think you might be able to return it and spring for something larger? You can even check Craig’s List (you might find a really good deal on a big tank).
I guess in summary, with $40, I’d go for:
1. Temp gun or digital thermometer. If the basking temps are too cold he won’t be able to metabolize his food, and if they’re way too hot it can be lethal. We need to ensure he has a basking spot between 100-110 degrees. Cost: $15-20.
2. UV light. Vital for growth, preventing metabolic bone disease, and psychological wellbeing. Reptisun T5 10.0 or Arcadia D3 + 12% are the best tubes money can buy, and most would argue they’re the most important purchase you’ll make for a beardie. $15-25 at the lowest price (see the Drsfosterandsmith.com link or you might be able to score a deal on Amazon). These are overpriced by about $20-25 at most chain pet stores, so your best bet is buying online).
3. A fixture for the light. It sounds like the budget will only allow for a Walmart fixture, but consider a Sunblaster or a specialty fixture with a reflector in the future, particularly if your adult tank (and adults need a very big tank. Forty gallons is the bare minimum but a 75 gallon or larger is much more ideal) is very tall.
So I know this may go beyond your $40 cap but it’s close enough that perhaps someone could float you $5 or $10 to make it work. And again, a 45watt flood bulb generally isn’t too pricey and will last a really long time. There are other options (just be sure to avoid colored or tinted bulbs). Unfortunately there’s just no way around the fact that the initial investment in a beardie’s setup can be quite pricey. But I’ve included the links to some of the lowest prices I’ve found for these items, so hopefully that helps.

Definitely get the lights ASAP, even if you have to beg or borrow for a few extra dollars. BTW, can you post pics of the baby + the set up ? Here's how :
https://www.beardeddragon.org/useruploads/ use the XIMG to upload them

Is it warm where you live ?

If you can see the picture, this is how he's set up right now. My goal for next week is a bigger tank, I'll be spending like 50$ for maybe a 30 gallon for him, whatever costs max 50$. I've kept my heater on in my room, so it's hopefully warm enough with the light too. I turned on his light at 8am and gave him a mealworm at 9. He still hasn't eaten it, just sits in one place and closes his eyes. He doesn't feel as cold as he did at the pet store, so hopefully this is an improvement. The store also used sand so do you think he is sick?

That bulb is pretty close, and I’m not sure of the wattage, but that’s one reason you definitely want the temp gun ASAP. If he isn’t retreating from/trying to get away from the light then that’s a good sign, so hopefully it’s not too toasty for him. You may want to provide a bit of shelter just in case it is a little too warm (beardies love their caves and hides, but since this isn’t in the budget right now, you can create a makeshift hide using something around the house. A small box with an open doorway cut onto the side, a small flower pot on its side, etc.). Conversely, in the cage there’s also the chance it might be too cold for him to properly digest food, thus potentially his refusal to eat/low appetite. Mealworms are a really tough feeder insect for beardies to digest and generally aren’t advised, particularly for babies. Small dubia roaches, phoenix worms/BSFL/calciworms, and small crickets are really good feeders for babies. Make sure any insects you feed him are no longer than the space between his eyes (because this is the width of his throat and larger insects can be a choking hazard). Here’s a link to one of the best nutrition charts available: http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
Print it out and use it as a reference when buying veggies and insects. It lists which insects and veggies are good daily staples, which are treats, and which are best to avoid. Ordering insects online can save a lot of money. Babies should be fed insects at least twice a day, as many as they want within a 10-minute period. Adults don’t require as much protein (70-80% of their diet is vegetation when they hit this stage), but your baby has a lot of growing to do and right now he should be a bug-demolishing machine. Always offer appropriate greens and veggies, but know that at this stage the emphasis is on live protein.
That’s great that you’re looking into a bigger tank. This will allow him to have the proper cool side and hot side temperatures. For now making sure you have the right temperatures (temp gun) and that he has a good UV light ASAP is as vital as water is to a goldfish, but once you’ve got these elements he’ll be able to thrive. Regarding the previous sand environment he was on, it sounds like impaction isn’t a current issue and that once you have the right temps and the UV set up you should see an appetite increase and regular bowel movements. Post updates and any other questions you may have. Hopefully you can order that stuff today!

He still doesn't want to move much, but he looks around a lot more than he did yesterday. The worms were the smallest the store carried, and we're what they recommended. I have like 60 now that I guess I can't use. He ate half of one yesterday though. He just likes to sit and close his eyes, and watch my dogs run around when they come in my room. I put him in an old toilet paper tube as a tunnel thing for him, do you think that's good? I still don't know the sex, I've just taken to calling him a he. If he is a boy, I'm definitely naming him Marble. He looks more like granite, but marble sounds cooler. Any other things I could get done today? And is there such a thing as too much handling?

I took him out to hang out with, and he started playing with my phone, so I turned on an old cat game and he loves it. Do you think this means he's hungry? Or just playing?

He ate! I put him on a table with 2 worms and he ate 3/4 of one. I think he couldn't see into the bowl I had, so I flipped it over to be like a rock

Mealworms aren't very good as you already know, but try to use the freshly shed ones. At least the little thing has an appetite, that's a good sign. The lights are going to be more important than a new tank, so be sure to get them or order them ASAP. You can actually use a large plastic tote as temp. housing and rig the lights over the top. Do you have a plastic storage tote in your home ? In the closet or basement ? They will work fine for a few months. Walmart sells all sizes, the biggest are nearly 4 feet long + large enough for an adult dragon.

I just ordered the temp gun online. I can't do anything about lights until I have it, otherwise it's a waste of precious money. I just put my guy in a bath, and he drank a little. I think he likes it. He needs one every day, or every other day to stay hydrated?

Going by one of the information articles, I have come to the conclusion that Marble is a boy

The younger they are the more difficult it is to sex them accurately. The hemipenal bulges on a male bearded dragon will be two bulges, one on each side of the tail near the vent. The hemipenal bulges on a female beardie will be one single bulge in the center of the tail near the vent. If you see two prominent bulges then you indeed have a boy.
Marble is a very cute and unique name. I’m glad his appetite is improving. Since he hasn’t been eating much, I’d offer him live food more than twice a day. Once he’s got the correct temps and a good UV light his appetite should be huge. Pet stores often carry BSFL (also known as Reptiworms and Calciworms). Do you think you might be able to get your hands on some of these? Mealworms are pretty tough for beardies to digest (and if he doesn’t have the right temps, that makes digesting food even more difficult) so you’ll want to get him on another feeder insect as soon as you can. You don’t have to wait for a temp gun to order your UV light. The UV tubes produce very little heat, so the affect on cage temperature will be minimal. It’s the basking bulb that will serve as your beardie’s heat source. So order a UV tube and fixture right away. Again, you’ll be using the same UV tube no matter what basking bulb you end up purchasing, so don’t delay this. And AHBD’s suggestion to use a storage bin as a temporary cage until you can buy something larger is a really good idea. If you don’t have one around the house they run around $5 at Walmart. Bigger is better (to help achieve a good heat gradient).