Help With My New Baby Chaz

RockysMom":12mfbo88 said:

Cute little beardie. Congrats!

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dezismom":1x10rhyo said:

What a lovely little chap! great color! Have you named him, yet? Set up looks very nice, too...

He should be fed as much as he will,eat. At this age they are just eating machines, and growing at a phenomenal rate, so proper heat, vitamins, calcium and UVB are extra important. Sounds like you are doing a good job, and becoming self educated, which is also very important.

Many beardies dislike baths. Mine hates them. As they are desert animals, I Only bathe Dezi when he is dirty due to poo on tail, for example, or during a particularly big molt (shed) to help with that, or if I think he is constipated. Some Beardies do learn to like baths, but that will take some time. They hate anything new, so just give him time to become accustomed to the bathing. I decided to limit bathing Dezi, because stress is bad and can cause illness, and it was not worth that to me. At three years old, Dezi has grown a bit more tolerant of baths, just sitting it out, but I still only give him one as needed, because I do not want to encourage a fungus on his skin, as too much moisture can cause.
Dezi says...I hate baths, too! And Welcome to the wonderful world of Beardies!

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dannyjones":19ed3gqf said:

I just amazed its beauty.Thanks for sharing it with usresearch paper writing for college student

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KeyBlu422":1ig0nk2q said:

Based off of his appearance, I think you might want to bump up his feeding to three times a day and giving him as much as he wants for around 10 to 15 minutes. With my beardy at least(when he was a baby, he's now 5), he would get bored of the crickets and eat them later, I didn't take them out but people in the forums do suggest it since crickets can get hungry and on occasion, bite. Make sure to be giving calcium 5 times a week, with d3 is fine, and a good multivitamin like 2 times a week. Herptivite is probably your best bet for multivitamin while rep cal or other phosphorus free calciums are your best bet, though other brands such as National Geographic's brand can be used too(the calcium, multivitamin you'll definitely want to go with a multivitamin using beta carotene instead of synthetic vitamin A such as Herptivite). As for the temps, as long as the nighttime temps where he's sleeping doesn't go into the 60s, he doesn't need any nighttime heat. If he does need extra heat, a ceramic heat emitter will be much better than a colored nighttime bulb as CHEs give heat without the sleep disturbing nightlight. Also, if you haven't already, a temp gun provides the most accuracy so don't bother with a stick on thermometer and probe thermometers aren't always accurate either. As for feeding, supers(small ones), mealies, and waxworms should be given only on occasion. Crickets, Roaches, silkworms and Phoenix/repti worms can be used as staple Feeders. With BSFL, different brands of larvae are fed different diets which result in different nutritional value. For example, calci worms calcium content is a little higher than optimal and so should probably not be used as a staple BSFL while BSFL like Phoenix and reptiworms have good calcium content and pretty good overall nutritional value, which is why Phoenix and repti worms are the only two staple BSFL larvae I would use, though I'm sure there are other stapleworthy BSFL out there too. By the way, don't bother dusting the BSFL as their calcium content is already at an optimal level. As for newspaper, it's fine but there are better choices like excavator clay, tile, and a handful of other good choices. Sand can be used for adult beardies but the risk of impaction, while usually quite minimal by the time beardies reach adulthood, still exist. If you plan to use sand later down the line, initially use something like repti carpet or tile and then switch to playground sand at adulthood. Calci sand can be used but apparently poses a greater risk of impaction since it clumps when wet(like in a bearded dragon's tummy). Playground sand should also be checked and washed before use. As for the uvb, an exo terra compact dessert version preferably 26w or even better, a repti sun t5 10.0 tube or Arcadia tube uvb would be a bit better than the t8 you have.

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KeyBlu422":ioxae45s said:

Since you beardy also head bobbed(usually an act of showing dominance), I also bet it's a male instead of a female. Such pretty eyes your beardy has, I think it's the translucent dragons that have black eyes, though I am not really sure about that.

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ChazTheDragon":2a2eeb6q said:

KeyBlu422":2a2eeb6q said:

Based off of his appearance, I think you might want to bump up his feeding to three times a day and giving him as much as he wants for around 10 to 15 minutes. With my beardy at least(when he was a baby, he's now 5), he would get bored of the crickets and eat them later, I didn't take them out but people in the forums do suggest it since crickets can get hungry and on occasion, bite. Make sure to be giving calcium 5 times a week, with d3 is fine, and a good multivitamin like 2 times a week. Herptivite is probably your best bet for multivitamin while rep cal or other phosphorus free calciums are your best bet, though other brands such as National Geographic's brand can be used too(the calcium, multivitamin you'll definitely want to go with a multivitamin using beta carotene instead of synthetic vitamin A such as Herptivite). As for the temps, as long as the nighttime temps where he's sleeping doesn't go into the 60s, he doesn't need any nighttime heat. If he does need extra heat, a ceramic heat emitter will be much better than a colored nighttime bulb as CHEs give heat without the sleep disturbing nightlight. Also, if you haven't already, a temp gun provides the most accuracy so don't bother with a stick on thermometer and probe thermometers aren't always accurate either. As for feeding, supers(small ones), mealies, and waxworms should be given only on occasion. Crickets, Roaches, silkworms and Phoenix/repti worms can be used as staple Feeders. With BSFL, different brands of larvae are fed different diets which result in different nutritional value. For example, calci worms calcium content is a little higher than optimal and so should probably not be used as a staple BSFL while BSFL like Phoenix and reptiworms have good calcium content and pretty good overall nutritional value, which is why Phoenix and repti worms are the only two staple BSFL larvae I would use, though I'm sure there are other stapleworthy BSFL out there too. By the way, don't bother dusting the BSFL as their calcium content is already at an optimal level. As for newspaper, it's fine but there are better choices like excavator clay, tile, and a handful of other good choices. Sand can be used for adult beardies but the risk of impaction, while usually quite minimal by the time beardies reach adulthood, still exist. If you plan to use sand later down the line, initially use something like repti carpet or tile and then switch to playground sand at adulthood. Calci sand can be used but apparently poses a greater risk of impaction since it clumps when wet(like in a bearded dragon's tummy). Playground sand should also be checked and washed before use. As for the uvb, an exo terra compact dessert version preferably 26w or even better, a repti sun t5 10.0 tube or Arcadia tube uvb would be a bit better than the t8 you have.

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Thank you so much for all th advice! I will be changing my UBv lighting, finding multivitamins and finding some new food for him/her! I really appreciate you help it definitely gave me a lot Of insight! Thank you

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