Is this the place to ask for help with identification?

Have two new beardies, first time owner. Was trying to determine what their specific breeds and such are, but I am definitely overwhelmed with all the info I have found and not making much sense of any of it. Have a couple pics of the beardies, and will gladly take any that I can to help with the process, if this is the place to be.

Adipose

Abbadon

Cute little buggers, where did you get them? Adipose looks like a full body shed is coming on so the color won't be apparent until after. Looks like a possible leatherback.

Abaddon is a normal/standard phase, no special morph there. Are they housed together ? That can be trouble, biting can happen out of the blue, subtle bullying where one gets more food, too. But the biggest problem is that they can mangle toes + tails, happens all the time.

Just an FYI, loose substrate may cause very serious impaction in small beardies especially. Best o to have a bare floor or paper towels wile they're young. Non adhesive shelf liner is good as well.

Thanks for the reply.

They were bought at a PetSmart by the wife. She had some many years back before my time but they ended up impacted and both passed away. She decided she was ready to have some again..

She is just finishing another full shed, so thay assessment is spot on. Her spikes seem a great deal less pronounced, so that makes sense given my super limited knowledge.

Housing wise, they are presently together, I am in the process of building a pair of the crossfire enclosures I have read a ton about, which is part of my reason for wanting to ID them, though it soinds like a pretty standard size is 4' wide, 2' deep and tall. I would have thought they would need a little more room to move, but I fewl loke I am mistaken there.

In tank, we have one of those fake sand mat things that gets washed and disinfected weekly, during which I make an effort to ensure any pieces that are working their way loose get removed. There is some of the eco earth coconut substrate, which was to alleviate feeders getting underneath a few elements, but in the most recent cleaning that has been eliminated as well because with the mat it actually makes it more difficult to clean.

Typed on my phone, so there may be a million typos until I can proof at the computer...

O.K, sounds good. Can you post pics of your entire set up , including what type of lights you have ? What size crickets are you feeding them ? Be sure to get the 1/4" for those little guys, otherwise they can easily become impacted. How are they eating ? One way to let the babies the best chance at the crix is to put about 8-10 crix at a time in a jar with calcium powder. Shake them pretty hard so the crix are weak + wobbly, then dump them right near the beardies. As they eat them, offer another shaken batch + keep doing so until they have their fill. Feed them 2-3 X a day. They need to eat a lot and that will lesson the chance of their biting each other.

I will happily get pics of the setup and all that info, probably wont be until tomorrow when I get home from work tomorrow. Eating wise , they eat a lot of crickets. We normally pick up 1000 and between the ones that end up not lasting and what they eat, almost all of them are gone within 2 weeks. Calcium powder usually once a day. Adipose has grown phenomenally fast, Abbadon is definitely not growing as quick, but he does eat. Habe offered the dubia roaches for the first time today and they had no trouble catching and eating them either (unlike me trying to catch the one that I dropped on the floor)

After my rapid education (since these little life changers are new to me) I am definitely not feeling satisfied or content with their current quarters, but overall they seem healthy, and peraonable. They willingly climb onto our hands and climb around on us.

Aside from the cohabitation, I don't like their night heat source, as it is a red light, and it seems pretty well agreed that a CHE is the preferred night aource. Also, it seems that since the lights are passing through a screen cover, that it limits the UVB (or was it UVA) that they are getting. Temperatures seem to be around 105 at their basking rock, and between 79 and 91 reliably on thw cool side. We have stick on thermometers, bit I use an IR thermometer to take the temps.

Oh good, they are eating well so that's a really good sign. It sounds like they'll do just fine.

Took a little longer than I thought, but pics here of their current setup. Again, I'm aware that the current heat/ lighting is not near ideal, I am planning on replacing the red "night time" light with a ceramic heat emitter. I'm hoping that in the next week I'll have the first of the crossfire setups ready with lights and such, since my boss just shakes his head and walks away when I start talking about the enclosure.

Stick on thermometers are not relied upon, I have an IR temp gun

Today is cleaning and bath day...so they'll get to have a spot of fun

The light sources.the red and daylight bulbs are housed in a deep dome fixture resting on the mesh and the uvb is in its own fixture slightly toward the cool side.

Not too flashy, but I am hoping that they will enjoy their coming upgrades immensely.

Set up looks good + dragons look happy. When will your new enclosures be done ? One thing to do ASAP is get better uvb bulb. The compact 5.0 will not give off enough uvb at all + the dragons can go from seemingly healthy to in big trouble quickly from not being able to absorb calcium due to very low levels of uvb. Suddenly they may begin to develop trembling/twitching toes, then it can quickly progress to partial paralysis.

Try to get the Reptisun 10.0 t5 or the Arcadia D3 12 -14% uvb [ long tube bulbs ]

I agree that installing a high quality T5 in a crossfire should be a priority. The 22''(24'' fixture) model should do well set over the basking site.

I also recommend using a heat projector instead of a CHE. They produce plenty of heat for overnight, they can be set on a dimmer, and they don't get nearly as hot as a CHE. http://www.reptileuv.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=196

I like the idea of the heat projector. The wife is pretty set on me making a larger than normal enclosure (5 and a half feet long, to be exact :? ) SO I am likely going to be shelling out the money for the 48" bulbs and fixture, but have not successfully determined what I am actually doing for the basking light mount yet. The heat source may be needed to provide enough supplemental heat during the day. Still trying to talk her into a more standard 4x2x2 size, which would be super easy to make compared to the monster.

I know the topic has drifted, but before I make a post over the DIY section, any suggestions for light fixtures and lighting of the basking area? I'm planning on finding a clear halogen spot, for the wider range of light and bonus heat, but I am coming up empty on a base to mount it with.

Even in the larger enclosure you'd be OK with a 24'' fixture. That's long enough to cast an even beam over the basking area that will allow an adult dragon to bask under evenly. You can go bigger if you want to, but be sure to leave some areas with little to no UVB to give some options.

You could use a dual fixture or a second T5 that has a 6500k daylight bulb in it to provide some extra visible light. For basking, I'd just put in a ceramic screw fixture so you can drop a regular halogen bulb in for basking. Maybe set that up to a dimmer or dimming thermostat so you can fine tune the output as needed.