There are already questions about this but, I am new to this. I am getting a bearded dragon soon but my tanks hot side has only reached 88 degrees F. I live in a cooler area and am worried I can't keep the heat up, is there anything I can do? I already have a heat light going. Any help is appreciated...
Can't get my temp up high enough
- Thread starter Merlin124
- Start date
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Hello,
Keeping their temperatures optimal during the winter can definitely be hard sometimes!
What type of thermometer are you using to measure the temps with?
You could try using a ceramic heat emitter for extra heating but no extra light.
If you have some pictures of your tank setup that we could see, we can try to help be sure
your lights are placed correctly, etc.
Tracie
Keeping their temperatures optimal during the winter can definitely be hard sometimes!
What type of thermometer are you using to measure the temps with?
You could try using a ceramic heat emitter for extra heating but no extra light.
If you have some pictures of your tank setup that we could see, we can try to help be sure
your lights are placed correctly, etc.
Tracie
kingofnobbys
BD.org Sicko
88 deg F in tbe overall warm zone is fine.
What is the temperature at the basking spot and how exactly are measuring the temperatures and how long are you giving the tank to stabilize thermally before attempting your temperature measurements.
<< the tank wont warm up instantly ( it takes time for the surfaces to warm up if cold and for the air to warm up and start circulating . >>
Is the tank glass tank with a "open" top ( mesh lids are USELESS when It comes to establishing a stable thermal microclimate inside a vivarium).
Example of heat balance calcs for a typical YANK style glass open top beardie tank and why it's such a bad design : viewtopic.php?f=34&t=236332&p=1816614#p1816614
Easy to convert an open top tank to a thermally superior front opening tank : viewtopic.php?f=34&t=244922&p=1863668#p1863668
What is the temperature at the basking spot and how exactly are measuring the temperatures and how long are you giving the tank to stabilize thermally before attempting your temperature measurements.
<< the tank wont warm up instantly ( it takes time for the surfaces to warm up if cold and for the air to warm up and start circulating . >>
Is the tank glass tank with a "open" top ( mesh lids are USELESS when It comes to establishing a stable thermal microclimate inside a vivarium).
Example of heat balance calcs for a typical YANK style glass open top beardie tank and why it's such a bad design : viewtopic.php?f=34&t=236332&p=1816614#p1816614
Easy to convert an open top tank to a thermally superior front opening tank : viewtopic.php?f=34&t=244922&p=1863668#p1863668
Hi there,
I agree, high 80s in the warm end is fine. The basking surface temp is the temp you want to be warmer than that.
Like mentioned, measuring with an accurate device is paramount.
Sometimes though it's just trial and error with different wattages, or different basking heights.
-Brandon
I agree, high 80s in the warm end is fine. The basking surface temp is the temp you want to be warmer than that.
Like mentioned, measuring with an accurate device is paramount.
Sometimes though it's just trial and error with different wattages, or different basking heights.
-Brandon
I am using a ceramic heat emitter already, and it definitely helped ut still only reaching 88 to 90.
Digital thermometers on both sides one by the basking spot and the other on the lower left side. should I get more? It's a mesh top glass tank and I gave it 3 or 4 hours to heat up. Pictures below I think
Digital thermometers on both sides one by the basking spot and the other on the lower left side. should I get more? It's a mesh top glass tank and I gave it 3 or 4 hours to heat up. Pictures below I think
Hi there,
You might consider switching your basking surface to a solid surface, such as a stone/brick or log. They hold heat better.
As far as your probe placement, you would want it resting on the basking surface, where your dragons body would be resting. In the picture, it looks to be off to the side kind of up against the glass.
And I know you didn't ask about this, but I would consider replacing your UV bulb with a long florescent as opposed to those compact ones. They are quite weak and not really suitable for our application.
-Brandon
You might consider switching your basking surface to a solid surface, such as a stone/brick or log. They hold heat better.
As far as your probe placement, you would want it resting on the basking surface, where your dragons body would be resting. In the picture, it looks to be off to the side kind of up against the glass.
And I know you didn't ask about this, but I would consider replacing your UV bulb with a long florescent as opposed to those compact ones. They are quite weak and not really suitable for our application.
-Brandon
kingofnobbys
BD.org Sicko
With the mesh lid have you are going to battle to get the temperatures right thoughout the tank.
Nearly everyone forgets that warmed air rises , this is because it's density decreases with temperature unless the air is trapped in an airtight container.
Hence as the basking globe warms the air in the tank it will instantly start to escape the tank to be replaced by colder more dense air ( cold air falls and pools ) . So essentially you are not getting as much benefit from the basking globe as you could if you made a very quick and easy change to the tank, instead you warming the ceiling of the roof where the tank is houses (which only benefits the spiders who likely live up there).
If you have solid lid that enclosed the tank ( with the exception of ventilation though vent holes - usually in the back or side of the tank ) you may find you can get away with an 80W heat source in a 4ft L x 2ft W x 16" T tank with a solid lid , but if the there is no lid you will be struggling even with a 150W heat source to get adequate temperatures.
Ditch the mesh lid , replace it with sheet of plywood ( only needs to be 6mm to 9mm thick ) as it's only supporting the light fittings and maybe some cabling and light bits & pieces .
Any good hardware shop will have a trade desk where you can ask they cut the plywood to size , they might even cut holes for the CHE and basking globe fittings / reflector domes to fit inside , but It's get rid of the dome reflectors ( retire them / mothball them ) and place a naked high temperature all ceramic light fitting under the plywood lid.
You can probably get away with MDF or melamine for the lid if plywood is too expensive for you.
The result will be the warmed air inside the tank created by the basking globe (and CHE) will be forced to circulate and provide heat via convection and you will not need nearly as powerful a heat source to maintain the desire tank temperatures and basking spot temperature as you do now .
I'd place the hide ( which appears to be either a plastic or wooden "Hubbahut" directly under the basking globe , the make very good basking platforms , move the / remove the hammock ( for now as it's not any benefit to the dragon ).
What exactly is the compact UVB globe ?
Brand ?
wattage ?
UVB rating ?
distance from the basking spot at this time ?
In very small tanks compact UVB globes are fine but they must be a very good brand and rated at least 10% UVB and 26W and be positioned no more than 8 inches from the basking spot ( if in a reflector dome or a micro or nano size reflector hood ).
I get very good results using 26W UVB200 globes in nanohoods in my 120L rearing tanks.
Nearly everyone forgets that warmed air rises , this is because it's density decreases with temperature unless the air is trapped in an airtight container.
Hence as the basking globe warms the air in the tank it will instantly start to escape the tank to be replaced by colder more dense air ( cold air falls and pools ) . So essentially you are not getting as much benefit from the basking globe as you could if you made a very quick and easy change to the tank, instead you warming the ceiling of the roof where the tank is houses (which only benefits the spiders who likely live up there).
If you have solid lid that enclosed the tank ( with the exception of ventilation though vent holes - usually in the back or side of the tank ) you may find you can get away with an 80W heat source in a 4ft L x 2ft W x 16" T tank with a solid lid , but if the there is no lid you will be struggling even with a 150W heat source to get adequate temperatures.
Ditch the mesh lid , replace it with sheet of plywood ( only needs to be 6mm to 9mm thick ) as it's only supporting the light fittings and maybe some cabling and light bits & pieces .
Any good hardware shop will have a trade desk where you can ask they cut the plywood to size , they might even cut holes for the CHE and basking globe fittings / reflector domes to fit inside , but It's get rid of the dome reflectors ( retire them / mothball them ) and place a naked high temperature all ceramic light fitting under the plywood lid.
You can probably get away with MDF or melamine for the lid if plywood is too expensive for you.
The result will be the warmed air inside the tank created by the basking globe (and CHE) will be forced to circulate and provide heat via convection and you will not need nearly as powerful a heat source to maintain the desire tank temperatures and basking spot temperature as you do now .
I'd place the hide ( which appears to be either a plastic or wooden "Hubbahut" directly under the basking globe , the make very good basking platforms , move the / remove the hammock ( for now as it's not any benefit to the dragon ).
What exactly is the compact UVB globe ?
Brand ?
wattage ?
UVB rating ?
distance from the basking spot at this time ?
In very small tanks compact UVB globes are fine but they must be a very good brand and rated at least 10% UVB and 26W and be positioned no more than 8 inches from the basking spot ( if in a reflector dome or a micro or nano size reflector hood ).
I get very good results using 26W UVB200 globes in nanohoods in my 120L rearing tanks.
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