My 40gallon is not hot enough

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Deftones

Member
I'm trying to prepare and do everything right but my 40 gallon is just not hot enough.

I picked up my beardie last night, after assembling his stuff (just waiting on the infrared thermometer to come in mail). To my luck the power in my condo went out (entire subdivision went out) so I can imagine that my beardie was cold over night. I live in Michigan I should mention, and it's 15 degrees right now outside.

**Right click + view image to see much bigger BTW**

Here is the 40 gallon WIDE exo-terra:
mJb7iPd.jpg


Temp currently, I have the auto shutoff for night/day installed so the basking (150W) has been on for only 2 hours so far:
GGFzvLL.jpg


I have a water spray bottle to try and up the humidity to 40-50 BTW

Temp in basking area (off the charts so gotta be above 90 I would imagine but still it does not seem hot enough:
SxsGCgj.jpg


Temp on cool side (loks to be 71-75):
dVfafUK.jpg


I mean I just got him/her last night, (so small can't tell the sex, at least me) but I am worried because my beardie has not eaten, he scratches at the glass like he's trying to get out, and rests his entire body in a weird position on the sides. I am trying to do everything right and maybe I am being inpatient, but I am considering getting another heat lamp to make it hotter.

u0FferC.jpg


Any recommendations or any advise to help me feel better?
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 6 and Blaze is 4
Hes got relocation stress -- it might be awhile before he calms down-- just keep handling him and petting him talking to him he will eventually calm down -- dont stress about the temps for now -- your IR is gonna be there when ? That will give you an accurate temp- but the one temp you showed is ok - keep an eye on it --- as far as humidity I wouldnt mess w/ it - its not crucial at this point I live in MN and Hiccups tank has been running towards the desert humidity --- especially being as cold as it is you dont want him getting a RI -- concentrate on getting your temp up - I have a 120 gallon tank and only a 100 watt bulb for basking -- what kind of UVB do you have? It should be inside the tank w/ the cover off the bulb itself-- the tank looks very nice tho--
Karrie
 

Deftones

Member
Original Poster
KarrieRee":15xu4w27 said:
Hes got relocation stress -- it might be awhile before he calms down-- just keep handling him and petting him talking to him he will eventually calm down -- dont stress about the temps for now -- your IR is gonna be there when ? That will give you an accurate temp- but the one temp you showed is ok - keep an eye on it --- as far as humidity I wouldnt mess w/ it - its not crucial at this point I live in MN and Hiccups tank has been running towards the desert humidity --- especially being as cold as it is you dont want him getting a RI -- concentrate on getting your temp up - I have a 120 gallon tank and only a 100 watt bulb for basking -- what kind of UVB do you have? It should be inside the tank w/ the cover off the bulb itself-- the tank looks very nice tho--
Karrie

Thanks for the reply, :) he just ate about 8 superworms just now for the first time since I got him.

My UVB lamp is a "Desert 50 UVB T8 florescent bulb" and is outside the tank. If I put it inside like you said will it increase the temp significantly you think? I'd have to get another lamp if that's the case.
 

SPandS

Juvie Member
I wouldn't change any of the heating bulbs until you got a proper way to measure the temps. Those thermometers that you are using now, the dial as well as the stick on, can be wildly inaccurate. Digital probes and infrared guns are to 2 most commonly used. The probes are good for getting an accurate air temp and the guns are good for surface temps like the basking spot. Once you get a correct measurement of the temps we can help you better. A 150w basking spot should definitely be hot enough, maybe even too hot. But if he's too hot he can always move to a cooler place so if should be fine for now.

As far as the uvb bulb, I've never used that one but t8s are generally very weak and need to be under the screen and very close, 6inches or so, from the dragon for them to get enough uvb from them. Uvb is very important so making sure they get enough is crucial for them to be happy and healthy. Most people on this site will recommend upgrading to a t5 reptisun 10.0 or a t5 arcdia 12%. They can both be on top of the screen if close enough to the basking area.

It's good that it has started to eat but super worms for a young dragon aren't the best. Not only are they not that nutritious and are more of a treat but their hard shell can be hard for young dragons to digest and can cause them to become impacted. For my dragons their staple when younger were black soldier fly larvae, they are sold by multiple different names online. They are easy to care for and are high in calcium.
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 6 and Blaze is 4
Also dubia roaches are good as well for staple feeders - crickets are often used but can cause parasites so I recommend the dubias - no bigger than the size between his eyes-- those too can be ordered on line and shippers often have free shipping - google the dubias and the black soldier fly larvea-- and yes I would recommend the IR gun getting the temps before doing any changing at this point--- but do please get a different UVB -- like SandP said it is crucial to his health -- if you have any more questions please ask we are here to help
Karrie
 

Deftones

Member
Original Poster
SandP":2z4pib8j said:
I wouldn't change any of the heating bulbs until you got a proper way to measure the temps. Those thermometers that you are using now, the dial as well as the stick on, can be wildly inaccurate. Digital probes and infrared guns are to 2 most commonly used. The probes are good for getting an accurate air temp and the guns are good for surface temps like the basking spot. Once you get a correct measurement of the temps we can help you better. A 150w basking spot should definitely be hot enough, maybe even too hot. But if he's too hot he can always move to a cooler place so if should be fine for now.

As far as the uvb bulb, I've never used that one but t8s are generally very weak and need to be under the screen and very close, 6inches or so, from the dragon for them to get enough uvb from them. Uvb is very important so making sure they get enough is crucial for them to be happy and healthy. Most people on this site will recommend upgrading to a t5 reptisun 10.0 or a t5 arcdia 12%. They can both be on top of the screen if close enough to the basking area.

It's good that it has started to eat but super worms for a young dragon aren't the best. Not only are they not that nutritious and are more of a treat but their hard shell can be hard for young dragons to digest and can cause them to become impacted. For my dragons their staple when younger were black soldier fly larvae, they are sold by multiple different names online. They are easy to care for and are high in calcium.

Thanks for the detailed reply. I am about to go to Petco right now to get the reptisun, I remember seeing it there. Hopefully it will fit in the existing fixture I have or I'll have to get a new one. And hopefully htey have those larvae there too. Will keep you guys updated
 

SPandS

Juvie Member
Petco does sell the t5 reptisun 10.0, at least they did online anyway but it won't fit your fixture. T5s are skinnier than t8s and I think slightly different in length too. This is the hood I use for both my dragons, https://www.petmountain.com/product/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-high-output-terrarium-hood?variant=40651. It comes with a 5.0 bulb but you'll need to get the 10.0.

I've never looked for the bsfl locally, I get mine online. I'm not sure if petco will sell them but my petco has sold the dubia roaches.
 

Deftones

Member
Original Poster
SandP":3l14wijt said:
Petco does sell the t5 reptisun 10.0, at least they did online anyway but it won't fit your fixture. T5s are skinnier than t8s and I think slightly different in length too. This is the hood I use for both my dragons, https://www.petmountain.com/product/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-high-output-terrarium-hood?variant=40651. It comes with a 5.0 bulb but you'll need to get the 10.0.

I've never looked for the bsfl locally, I get mine online. I'm not sure if petco will sell them but my petco has sold the dubia roaches.

Unfortunately, after a trip to Petco and Petsmart, neither had the T5's, only T8's.... I need to buy online now. Neither had dubias or larvae as well, so I got some crickets and dusted them in calcium powder and he ate like 15. Also picked up some mustard greens, turnip greens, and acorn squash and he ate some of the mustard greens and has a little platter sitting in his terrarium now.

Would appreciate any link that sells quality dubias/BSFL's

That link looks to be the light + fixture for it? I will buy that and get the 10.0 online as well since I can't find locally.

Thanks for the help as well everyone, want to spoil my little beardie :)
 

Deftones

Member
Original Poster
Just bought the Zoo Med 26053 Reptisun T5-Ho Terrarium Hood, 24" , it will be here Monday. Got the 22'' T5 HO 10.0 but I'm not sure when it will be here yet, might take a week.

Do you think the T5 bulb that comes with the hood will be better than what I have now in the mean time until the 10.0 comes in?

Also, bought 500 BSFL from Fluker's Cricket Farms and Dubia roachs from Dubia Roach Depot :)
 

SPandS

Juvie Member
Looks nice. To be honest I don't know anything about your current bulb, I believe there's a chart somewhere that shows the uvb levels from certain bulbs at different distance but I can't remember if your bulb is on it. I think if you attach the fixture under the screen when it comes the 5.0 it should be ok until the 10.0 bulb comes. I've heard of people using fishing string, picture hanging wire or really anything you can fit through the screen to hold it up. If that works out for you you could probably keep it that way even with the 10.0 bulb so your dragon gets even more of the uvb. The smaller the holes in a screen the more uvb is blocked but since the t5 ho 10.0 is a good bulb they say it can be on top as long as the basking spot is close enough, I believe 10 inches or so, I'll have to see if I can find the post.

I have the same tank and I do use that background in one of my tanks but I have it on the outside. I felt like it took up too much space inside and I've read people complain about their dragons scratching it up and crickets getting behind it. It does look nice now though, cozy with plenty of places to climb and hide. As your dragon gets bigger it'll start getting a little tight and unless your dragon drinks from the water dish it isn't even needed, just make sure you offer water a different way. I use a dropper a drop some water on their snout, if they're thirsty they'll lick it off.

So I found a post, not the one I was thinking of but this one does discuss whether the fixture needs to be on top or not. It also has some links to check out if you understand that stuff. I myself use the 30" fixture I linked to with the 10.0 bulb on top of my screen but my basking spot is about 8" from it. https://www.beardeddragon.org/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1824346
 

Deftones

Member
Original Poster
SandP":tjhkegsr said:
Looks nice. To be honest I don't know anything about your current bulb, I believe there's a chart somewhere that shows the uvb levels from certain bulbs at different distance but I can't remember if your bulb is on it. I think if you attach the fixture under the screen when it comes the 5.0 it should be ok until the 10.0 bulb comes. I've heard of people using fishing string, picture hanging wire or really anything you can fit through the screen to hold it up. If that works out for you you could probably keep it that way even with the 10.0 bulb so your dragon gets even more of the uvb. The smaller the holes in a screen the more uvb is blocked but since the t5 ho 10.0 is a good bulb they say it can be on top as long as the basking spot is close enough, I believe 10 inches or so, I'll have to see if I can find the post.

I have the same tank and I do use that background in one of my tanks but I have it on the outside. I felt like it took up too much space inside and I've read people complain about their dragons scratching it up and crickets getting behind it. It does look nice now though, cozy with plenty of places to climb and hide. As your dragon gets bigger it'll start getting a little tight and unless your dragon drinks from the water dish it isn't even needed, just make sure you offer water a different way. I use a dropper a drop some water on their snout, if they're thirsty they'll lick it off.

So I found a post, not the one I was thinking of but this one does discuss whether the fixture needs to be on top or not. It also has some links to check out if you understand that stuff. I myself use the 30" fixture I linked to with the 10.0 bulb on top of my screen but my basking spot is about 8" from it. https://www.beardeddragon.org/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1824346

Thank you! I will check it out. I got my reptitemp today, here is some pics. I am thinking I should almost go back to the 100W..

Lower face of the rock, where he mostly basks at, every time he goes to the very top his arms and legs move up like they are too hot:

RQQYugi.jpg

dQzfqgl.jpg


Up the rock a little more..

3H7A9ox.jpg


The very top... 132 degrees

xwjBW2H.jpg


It seems pretty clear to me that I should lower the basking bulb back to 100w but what do you think ? I took the rock out and put his log back until I hear back from yall

3EOOAJC.jpg


Also bought some dubia roaches from a local reptile place, they are much easier to feed as the crickets were jumping out. Actually had like 5-6 jump out yesterday all over my kitchen and I had to hunt them all down lol
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 6 and Blaze is 4
Do you have a Infrared temp gun? You need take temps w / that! You can get them at Walmart or Home Depot for around $10--
Karrie
 
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