Please help! How to set up lighting/tank questions

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rhihug

Member
Hello,
I got my bearded dragon, Draco, about 2-3 weeks ago from Petco. I am unsure of his exact age, but he is 12" long so I am guessing that he is around 3-4 months old? I am a teacher and got a grant through the "Pets in the Classroom" organization which allowed me to get a bearded dragon kit for free, as well as 50% off my little dude. I thought I had researched about beardies quite a bit beforehand. I knew to not use the loose substrate that came in the kit and am sure that I am feeding him the correct size crickets as well as the proper types of greens. However, he is starting to act a bit off and I realize it may be due to the inadequate lighting in his enclosure that came with the kit. I am a newbie to reptiles and have never had one before, so I am kind of clueless on how to set up the lighting. Please don't be too hard on me- I am already quite attached to Draco and just want the best for him!

My questions:

1) I've been reading on here and on other sites that I should get a UVB tube light for him, specifically the ReptiSun 10.0 fluorescent tube or Zoo Med Reptisun T5 HO 10.0 UVB. What is the difference between the two? Which one is better/which should I get?

2) Once I get the UVB light, how do I go about attaching it? What kind of fixture do I need? Am I able to put it on top of my wire screen top, or how would I go about putting it inside?

3) What other lighting should I use for the basking side of the tank?

3) Draco is currently in a 20gal Zilla tank with a wire screen lid that sort of slides in and locks in place. I plan to move him to a 40gal as he grows. When should I go about getting him the bigger tank? When I do make the switch, what type of lid do you recommend?

Thank you for your help!
 

cmoo

Member
I got my beardie from the same grant! Unfortunately many of the items in the kit are inadequate. I have the same tank in the 40 gallon size. I purchased a t5 HO separately that is 36" and sits perfectly on top. I am able to keep the front part of the lid open so the uvb gets in unobstructed. However, for the 20 gallon, the t5 may be too strong of a light. Someone with more experience can hopefully weigh in on this, but you may need to start with the t8 and eventually upgrade lights when you upgrade to a bigger tank.
I still use the double light fixture that came with the kit for a basking bulb. I just leave the other socket empty.
I am finding paper towels to be the easiest substrate, especially since her poops are quite stinky and I need to clean them right away - I pretty much stop class to do this, lol.
Do you have a second tank at home? I have a 20 gallon set up at home and my beardie is quickly outgrowing that (she is probably 9-10 months). I use a soft structured pet bag to transport her to and from school.
What grade do you teach? I teach 6th grade science and my students just love our beardie. I taught one student how to feed her in case I am ever out sick unexpectedly.
 

JessPets

Gray-bearded Member
The ReptiSun 10.0 comes in two different BULB sizes: the t8 and the t5. You will want the t5, because it is stronger, but you will also need to upgrade your tank to at least 40gallons (which I would do ASAP). Browse craigslist and such sites to find cheaper tanks. If you can, just use a t5 under the counter fixture for fluorescent lights. For heat, all you need is a halogen bulb and ceramic light socket.


Also, do you take him home on weekends? They shouldn't be left alone that long. If so, do you have duplicate setups at home and at school, or do you just take the tank to and from?
 

Gormagon

Extreme Poster
rhihug":3kl34e6x said:
Hello,
I got my bearded dragon, Draco, about 2-3 weeks ago from Petco. I am unsure of his exact age, but he is 12" long so I am guessing that he is around 3-4 months old? I am a teacher and got a grant through the "Pets in the Classroom" organization which allowed me to get a bearded dragon kit for free, as well as 50% off my little dude. I thought I had researched about beardies quite a bit beforehand. I knew to not use the loose substrate that came in the kit and am sure that I am feeding him the correct size crickets as well as the proper types of greens. However, he is starting to act a bit off and I realize it may be due to the inadequate lighting in his enclosure that came with the kit. I am a newbie to reptiles and have never had one before, so I am kind of clueless on how to set up the lighting. Please don't be too hard on me- I am already quite attached to Draco and just want the best for him!

Welcome to the wonderful world of bearded dragons, a realm of mystery and enchantment as well as worry love and happiness. A world where dragons rule and we as slaves, follow diligently, lol!!!

My questions:

1) I've been reading on here and on other sites that I should get a UVB tube light for him, specifically the ReptiSun 10.0 fluorescent tube or Zoo Med Reptisun T5 HO 10.0 UVB. What is the difference between the two? Which one is better/which should I get?
one is a T8 which is not as strong and has to be within 8" of your dragon and mounted under the screen to do any good. The T5 HO is much stronger and is a better choice because in your case because it can be put on the top of the screen and still get sufficient uvb (the screen filters about 30% of the uvb rays out). the coil type bulbs that come with those kits are bad for their eyes. They can cause loss of sight and/or, eye infections.

2) Once I get the UVB light, how do I go about attaching it? What kind of fixture do I need? Am I able to put it on top of my wire screen top, or how would I go about putting it inside?

3) What other lighting should I use for the basking side of the tank?
you can get a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) for night time in case temps drop below 65° in the classroom. They prefer it to be dark and cool so their metabolism can slow down to rest. DO NOT use any type of light emitting heat source at night, CHE's only put out heat.

3) Draco is currently in a 20gal Zilla tank with a wire screen lid that sort of slides in and locks in place. I plan to move him to a 40gal as he grows. When should I go about getting him the bigger tank? When I do make the switch, what type of lid do you recommend?
Now would be the best time because Draco is already to big for a 20gal tank

Thank you for your help!
 

rhihug

Member
Original Poster
Thank you all for your help! I think I will upgrade to the 40gal sooner than later and will most likely get the T5 tube light. What size/length tube should I get for the 40gal?

Right now I only brought him to school for one week- I had him at home the two weeks prior. I brought him home this weekend along with the whole enclosure. I do not have a duplicate at home. It is fairly easy to transport the 20gal, but the 40gal would be much more difficult to transport, as I live on the 2nd floor of an apartment complex with no elevator. Any thoughts about this? I can definitely do the upgrade to a 40gal and get him the appropriate lighting, but I don't really have the money to spend on a second 40gal enclosure.
 

cmoo

Member
Definitely check craigslist or Facebook yard sale sites for a used tank. I got a 40 gallon for $50 to upgrade my home tank.
For now, you might consider getting a new 40 gallon for your classroom, where he will be most of the time, and use the 20 gallon for home, where he will only spend weekends. Just be sure to give him extra time out of the smaller tank for exercise, etc.
You can apply for the grant again in August to help upgrade again.
 

rhihug

Member
Original Poster
Great news! I've ordered the appropriate lighting for him as well as an infrared thermometer. Yesterday Pets Supplies Plus was having a dollar per gallon sale AND I had a $5 coupon, so I got a 40 gallon breeder for only $38!! I've ordered a hinged screen lid for it as well. I hope to have everything by the end of next week and hopefully it will help out my little Draco. Thanks!
 

cmoo

Member
That's great news! Keep us posted on his progress :)

Where do you find a hinged lid for the 40 gallon? I've been searching for one too
 

Jsw

Hatchling Member
Right now I only brought him to school for one week- I had him at home the two weeks prior. I brought him home this weekend along with the whole enclosure. I do not have a duplicate at home. It is fairly easy to transport the 20gal, but the 40gal would be much more difficult to transport, as I live on the 2nd floor of an apartment complex with no elevator. Any thoughts about this? I can definitely do the upgrade to a 40gal and get him the appropriate lighting, but I don't really have the money to spend on a second 40gal enclosure.

I have a class pet beardie too. He has a 40 gallon with wire screen top at home, and a 4'x2'x2' crossfire style DIY enclosure at school. I have his lights on timers to be on 6:30-9:30 and a CHE that I turn on before I leave. I bring him home in a plastic tub each weekend, and he seems to have become used to the routine.

I am glad you got a second enclosure. I think the value in class pets is teaching students responsibility and modeling doing what's right by the animal, not just what's convenient or fun. I don't let my kids handle him if he seems stressed, for example, and they're not allowed to crowd the glass during feeding time. His needs always take priority over their desires, and that is such an important idea for them to learn.

Also, thanks for mentioning the Petco grant! I'm looking into that!!
 

rhihug

Member
Original Poster
cmoo":23jea75x said:
That's great news! Keep us posted on his progress :)

Where do you find a hinged lid for the 40 gallon? I've been searching for one too


I found my hinged lid on Amazon! The reviews all said that it fits the 40 breeder. https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Screen-Cover-Hinged/dp/B00LH09T2W/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487695067&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=40+gallon+tank+hinged+lid
It comes today, along with a stand for the 40gal that was only $50 including shipping! https://www.amazon.com/Imagitarium-Brooklyn-Gallon-Metal-Stand/dp/B01N7KIM75/ref=pd_sim_199_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01N7KIM75&pd_rd_r=KGE9DPXYESYSKFCTPKRB&pd_rd_w=EPRKH&pd_rd_wg=wALTJ&psc=1&refRID=KGE9DPXYESYSKFCTPKRB

My infrared thermometer also comes today. My UVB bulb will be here sometime this week. I pray it comes soon!

I'm actually going to keep Draco at home for a little while so I can monitor him closely. His appetite has been down. He had runny stool with a little blood in it last week which had me extremely worried. His stool is back to normal now, but he still doesn't have the appetite that he did before. He is a little low energy as well. From all the reading/researching I've been doing, this could all be due to his inadequate lighting in his current setup. Like I said, everything will be here today except for the UVB light, so hopefully I should have him all set up in his new tank in a few days! I'm hoping that the proper lighting will spike his appetite and he will feel like himself again. If not, I will take him to a vet. I didn't want to run to a vet too soon, if my lighting is his issue.
 

rhihug

Member
Original Poster
Hey everyone! I have all the pieces to Draco's new upgraded 40 gallon tank now EXCEPT for his UVB light. It should arrive any day!! He seems to be happier in the big tank. All of the sudden the night before I switched him his appetite went back up and he finally has a belly again instead of looking scrawny. SO happy about that! I'm sure it will get even better with the UVB light.

So how does it look? Is there anything I'm missing (other than the UVB light- it's on its way so just pretend it's sitting on top. Haha). Should I get a CHE? Or is there anything else you recommend??

full


full
 

kornel351

Hatchling Member
You should get a CHE because the infrared bulbs for nighttime can mess with there sleeping habits and also in nature at night their is no red light it's just dark so let's replicate that in captivity .
 

CooperDragon

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
To be clear, CHEs use infrared which isn't part of our visible spectrum making them good for use overnight. There are bulbs on the market that are listed as night bulbs that give off visible red or blue/purple light which aren't good as the visible light can disrupt sleep. A CHE is a good choice. I prefer using these because they don't burn quite so hot but still direct plenty of heat downward. http://www.reptileuv.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=196
 

rhihug

Member
Original Poster
CooperDragon":38xhqa7j said:
To be clear, CHEs use infrared which isn't part of our visible spectrum making them good for use overnight. There are bulbs on the market that are listed as night bulbs that give off visible red or blue/purple light which aren't good as the visible light can disrupt sleep. A CHE is a good choice. I prefer using these because they don't burn quite so hot but still direct plenty of heat downward. http://www.reptileuv.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=196

I know that dragons aren't supposed to have blue/red/night lights in their enclosure. I do not have one of those in Draco's tank. Right now I just have a heat/basking light, which isn't getting the tank quite as hot as it did in the 20 gallon (around 92 degrees now). I would like it a little bit hotter, especially at night when the light is off, so that's why I was asking about the CHE. (And again- the UVB tube light is coming any day, so don't worry that it's not on the tank right now).

I love that infrared lightless heater that you put the link to, CooperDragon! Thanks for sharing! So I would just need to buy that one item and that's it to heat the tank at night?
 

CooperDragon

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Yeah you can supplement the heat from your basking light with that or a CHE in a dome fixture. I advise putting it on a dimming/pulse thermostat or at least a manual lamp dimmer so you can cut power as needed. That way you can fine tune the temps during the day and give off just enough of a bump overnight. I have mine programmed to keep the tank between about 70-73 overnight which is great in the winter. It doesn't kick in at all during the summer as temps stay in the low to mid 70s on their own most nights.
 
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