Supply Checklist

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Beardienatic

Hatchling Member
Hey guys! :D
I will be getting a bearded dragon soon-ish (a couple of months, long story about why I can't get him now :( ), and I just wanted to check that my supply-list is correct, that I didn't forget anything or added unnecessary stuff!

*Enclosure
*UVB Light & Fixture
*UVA Light & Fixture
*Substrate
*Tank Background
*Thermometer (digital) (x2)
*Food Bowls
*Hiding place
*Climbing Branch
*Ceramic heat emitter
*Cage Cleaner Spray
*Basking rock
*Fresh food
*Insects
*Vitamin Supplements
*Spray bottle for hydration

I just also have a few questions: -Can bearded dragons drink/be hydrated with tap water, or is there harmful chemicals in it?

Thanks in advance!! :)
 

CooperDragon

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
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Tap water shouldn't be a problem for them. You can filter it using a brita etc if you want to though.

*Enclosure - The more space the better, but I'd shoot for at least 36''x18''x18''

*UVB Light & Fixture - Get a good T5 fixture and tube that runs about 1/2-3/4 the length of the tank.

*UVA Light & Fixture - The wattage depends on your temp readings. Having an adjustable lamp stand is helpful for fine tuning. Brand isn't as important. You can use a PAR38 halogen flood light too if you'd prefer. ZooMed Repti Basking spot lamp is a decent one too.

*Substrate - solid is easier to keep sanitary. Ceramic tile or non-adhesive shelf liner work well.

*Tank Background - This is up to you. If your dragon shows signs of stress you can even put up newspaper temporarily. Other than that, it's cosmetic.

*Thermometer (digital) (x2) - Good to have. It's nice to have a temp gun too so you can take instant spot readings.

*Food Bowls - Nice to have a salad bowl but not necessary. Don't need anything special.

*Hiding place - Have at least one good hide as well as some shady areas.

*Climbing Branch - Similar to hiding place, have a couple of different levels and areas to climb around on.

*Ceramic heat emitter - May not need it but nice to have on hand. Low wattage works best if you need it seasonally overnight. just need it to bump the temps up into the high 60s or low 70s.

*Cage Cleaner Spray - F10SC is nice to have. You could use a steam cleaner for sanitization as well. For spot cleaning I use a spray bottle with vinegar and water.

*Basking rock - You can use the hide and/or logs for this too.

*Fresh food - a couple of items from this list depenidng on what you can get fresh is good. http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html

*Insects - variety is good as you can get it. Try establishing a dubia colony beforehand if you want to go that route. Give it a few months or more to mature and become self sustaining.

*Vitamin Supplements - Calcium is very important (without D3 if you have a T5 UVB) and multivitamins are a nice to have item. I like using Repashy brand but there are other good options too.

*Spray bottle for hydration - or you could use a syringe or dropper. They also drink from baths if needed. I use a turkey roasting pan for a bathtub. You can use a tupperware container for the little guys.

I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any further questions.
 

Beardienatic

Hatchling Member
Original Poster
Thank you CooperDragon, that helps a lot!! I have a few more questions that I forgot to add though.

*What should the daytime cool-side's temp be?
*What should the daytime warm-side/basking area's temp be?
*What should the night-time cool-side's temp be?
*What should the nigh-time's warm-side/basking area's temp be?
*Or is it just one consistent temp through the night?
 

CooperDragon

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
*What should the daytime cool-side's temp be? - 75-80 roughly. The important part is to create a gradient so that your dragon can self regulate and get what they need.

*What should the daytime warm-side/basking area's temp be? - Basking area should be 100-110 for a young dragon and a little less for an adult, maybe 98-105 or so. Again, the gradient is important to maintain as well.

*What should the night-time cool-side's temp be?
*What should the nigh-time's warm-side/basking area's temp be?
*Or is it just one consistent temp through the night? - You don't need to monitor the zones during the night because no basking is going on. If the temps stay above 65 or so that's fine and you don't need to take any action. If they drop below that, a low wattage ceramic heat emitter can be put in to bump the temps up a little bit.
 

Beardienatic

Hatchling Member
Original Poster
A few more questions! :D

*I have a small animal nail clipper that I use for my guinea pigs, can I use that to clip my bearded dragon's nails?
*How often should I take him to the vet? Should you do a yearly check-up or just when he seems ill, or...?
 

CooperDragon

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
You could use that if you want. I use regular human nail clippers and an emery board. Just run the clipper along the back of the nail and you'll feel it catch at the very end. Then you can clip. Just clip the sharp tip of the nail and not the quick. Have some corn starch on hand to stop bleeding just in case (I've never needed it). Having tile substrate helps to sand down the nails a bit like an emery board too so you don't need to clip the nails very often.

It really depends on your budget and if you have an experienced reptile vet nearby. I have an experienced reptile vet in town and brought my boys to see her for annual checkups. I think it's a good idea just to get a baseline for their systems so it's easier to tell if something goes wrong and to begin appropriate treatment if needed. Not necessary but a nice luxury to have if it's available.
 
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