New foods

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beardedlady1

Hatchling Member
So my beardie has now branched into adulthood. He no longer seems to have much interest in worms and absolutely no interest at all in crickets. So I started with baby food trying to get him into the flavor of vegetables which was an absolute success until he got tired of that crap. Now he is eating straight up veggies. I premix his salad so during the week I can just grab a small handful toss them in the bowl and go do my daily do's. He used to have endive kale celery dandelion leaves carrots and cabbage. But this week he has decided he does not want that anymore. So this week we are going Asian style LOL with red chard collard greens bok choy live alfalfa sprouts and grapes.

Now here's my problem I put it in there and he doesn't seem to be interested at all is there anything in that bowl right now that he should not be eating? Because I'm still kind of rusty on what they can and cannot eat. I usually just Google because there's so many things that they can regularly daily sometimes. And then there's things like avocados that they can't even be around. I know that he likes apples and pumpkin and sweet potato but I usually get that in the baby food form when he hasn't pooped in a week LOL also he will not eat his salad if there are not worms on the bottom to move the salad. He won't eat the worms most of the time he lets them Escape and I find them days later scoop them up put them back in the Bowl and make them move that salad too. Is that bad?
 

beardedlady1

Hatchling Member
Original Poster
On a side note I have not been dusting his food is that bad? I figured he was getting plenty of calcium from the vegetables and he didn't need anything extra especially being that he has a little MDB in his jaw I didn't want to overdo it. But the calcium dusting that I have also comes with vitamins. Should I go and sprinkle some of that on his Asian salad right now?
 

VenusAndSaturn

Sub-Adult Member
Usually you dont have to dust the salad, but not dusting insects is very bad. All insect feedings should be dusted with calcium during week days, and then multivitamins usually during weekends.
Depending on how old your beardie is he'll either need to eat insects every other day or everyday.
If he is not eating crickets or worms you can try roaches, dubias or turkish roaches work well.

This is a list of how to feed, and what to feed. Possibly this may help.

1-4 months eat 3 times a day, 4-12 months eat 2 times a day, 12-20 months eat once a day, and then 20+ months eat every other day. Each feeding consists of around 10-20 bugs.

The type of staple feeder bugs you should use are crickets, dubia roaches, turkish roaches, silkworms, grasshoppers, and
calci-worms/phoenix worms/nutrigrubs/BSFL.
For the BSFL make sure you also give one of the other feeders as well when feeding this.
If able to feed all insects a nice staple meal would probably look like this
5 dubia roaches, 5 turkish roaches, 3 silkworms, 3 BSFL, 3 crickets, and 1-2 grasshoppers.
Make sure to change it up each feed with different amounts.

For treats you could use mealworms, superworms, hornworms, waxworms, or butterworms.

Only give around 5-10 mealworms a day or feeding. -Not much protein, not a good calcium to phosphorus ratio.
Only 2-4 superworms every two days or every other day. -High in fat, can cause fatty liver disease if given too many.
Only 3-6 Hornworms a day or every other day. - low fat but high moisture constant, can cause diarrhea if given too much.
Only 2-4 waxworms every two days or every other day. - High fat, can cause fatty liver disease if given too many.
Only 3-6 butterworms every day or every other day. - Low fat, good protein, however they go through radiation when being transported. Could result in a possible sickness if given too many. Possible staple feeder if they didnt go through radiation.

Daily Salads shoud consist of this collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, cactus pad (no spines, raw), cactus pear (prickly pear), dandelion greens, endive, escarole, acorn/butternut (winter)/Hubbard/scallop/spaghetti/ summer squash's can all be fed daily.
Another green of sorts you can give is kale, but only occasionally. Same goes for carrots.
Fruits should be fed once or twice a week in a mix of staple greens, here are few that can be fed, bananas, red raspberries, blueberries, kiwi, pineapple and strawberries.

Supplements are a way to give your beardie what it needs as they would have a more varied diet in the wild.
Calcium and multivitamins without any D3 is preferred.

Less than 20+ months -
Monday-Friday calcium dusted on at least one feeding if not all insects.
Saturday-Sunday Multivitamins dusted on at least one feeding if not all insects.

More than or at 20+ months -
Monday, Wednesday, Friday calcium dusted on all insects.
Sunday multivitamins dusted on all insects.
 

beardedlady1

Hatchling Member
Original Poster
I'm nervous to use roaches lol what if one escaped! Also are the horns on horn worms sharp or soft?? He normally eats super worms.
 

VenusAndSaturn

Sub-Adult Member
They most likely wouldn't escape, they cant climb smooth surfaces like glass or plastic. Only on occasion do i find any escapees and that's when i clean the bin. Ive only found two small nymphs twice roaming on my floor after a clean.
They are tons healthier than the treat feeder your currently using, they both have around the same or near protein content but dubias have a lot less fat meaning less likely to cause fatty liver disease like supers do.
For them all you need is a 90 quart tub, egg crates, a lid with mesh on the inner portion of the top and just throw collard greens in there to feed them, or other healthy greens. Keep the humidity at around 40-50% and temps at 70-80, or a 70-80 cool side and a 90 hot spot underneath the main portion of the egg crates with a heat pad.


As for hornworms their pretty soft, my beardies love them to death however because its a expensive treat they dont get them often. Its around 14-15 dollars for 25 of them in a cup with food and that may last a week or two depending on age and how many reptiles you have. For one beardie it'll probably last longer than it does for me.
 

beardedlady1

Hatchling Member
Original Poster
VenusAndSaturn":3nc0f5o7 said:
They most likely wouldn't escape, they cant climb smooth surfaces like glass or plastic. Only on occasion do i find any escapees and that's when i clean the bin. Ive only found two small nymphs twice roaming on my floor after a clean.
They are tons healthier than the treat feeder your currently using, they both have around the same or near protein content but dubias have a lot less fat meaning less likely to cause fatty liver disease like supers do.
For them all you need is a 90 quart tub, egg crates, a lid with mesh on the inner portion of the top and just throw collard greens in there to feed them, or other healthy greens. Keep the humidity at around 40-50% and temps at 70-80, or a 70-80 cool side and a 90 hot spot underneath the main portion of the egg crates with a heat pad.


As for hornworms their pretty soft, my beardies love them to death however because its a expensive treat they dont get them often. Its around 14-15 dollars for 25 of them in a cup with food and that may last a week or two depending on age and how many reptiles you have. For one beardie it'll probably last longer than it does for me.

I must have those smart superworms they crawl on top of each other and form a bridge and one by one they escape LOL the last one in the dishes usually the sacrifice
 
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Clapton is acclimating okay I think. He's quick as lightning so I'm not sure how much I should bring him out of his house yet. He's not at all interested in his salad though. I wonder if I should change what I'm giving him. Least he's eating his crickets.

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