Hello new to forums new dragon please help

Hey there my name is Troy Brennan and I am new to these forums; but not new to reptiles. I bought a bearded dragon from beardeddragoncentral.com, reputable breeder however I have had some issues with my new baby girl!
She has a small kink in her tail looks like shedding is stuck minor problem; she has a respiratory infection.
So my question is does anyone have experience with reptaid and does it help with RI?
Also does any have any experience with FH-10SC; it's a spray cleaner but I have heard it helps with coccedia and can also cure RI?
my beautiful baby girl only weighs 24 grams and I got her Sunday 12/3 at a reptile show in Orlando Florida. she doesn't look skinny at all but she has lost an appetite; however she does eat from what I see 1 live prey item a day. Cricket roach supers I like variety, I would imagine she likes variety.
Symptoms
Since I got her labored breathing but less often since Sunday but I noticed a bubble yesterday from her mouth.
She seems interested but doesn't chase food.
Runny poo/stool
She sleeps starring up at the ceiling
Cage setup
125 basking temp 77 cool side
Night temps I have started using a ceramic heat emitter to help her beat this RI. 77-87 she stays on the warm end. I have overnight ef reptaid and the FH-10SC and a Anti-protozoal from beardeddragon.co better to be safe then sorry, but have not started treatment as of yet.
I have told myself if she stops eating I will be taking her to a vet but she keeps eating the prey items from what I see once per day but I only see her in the morning so she may be eating her salad too.
My question is mainly what can I do to have her beat this on her own? I don't mind a vet bill but I don't want them to put hard drugs in her if it's something she could overcome naturally.
Can beardies beat an RI if kept warm enough and in a clean environmetn? Will reptaid help or should I use the nebulizer treatment with fh-10? Should I just take her to the vet? It's only been 4 days since she's been in her new home.
Sorry for incredibly long lost and grammar I am nervous for her and just want a healthy baby.

The setup is definitely not helping her issues at all. 125 is way to hot, even for adults. It cant be hotter than at least 115. Preferably 95-105. I cant exactly help you with the issues she has but i can help correct the setup more so she has a better recovery.

Basking spot should be at 100-105, highest 110, lowest 95.
Cool side 70-80
Unless it gets below 65 you dont need the CHE but at least your not using colored lights. You could use a dehumidifier and it would help tons more to get the humidity only around 20-40%.

Completely get rid of the superworms, they will hurt her rather than do any good depending on her age. In my opinion unless 12+ months they shouldnt be fed at all same with mealworms, and even then only 2-4 max per day or feeding as they can cause fatty liver disease.
I've experienced my two adults when they were younger completely go off food just because they wanted superworms all the time and would almost starve themselves if i offered anything else that was an actual staple. I did eventually get them off of superworms a few months ago however and now they are happily eating most of their salad, crickets, roaches and calciworms.

What size tank does she have?
What kind of uvb? t5, 58, 10.0 or 5.0
What brand of uvb?
What type of substrate does she have?
How old is she?
How much are you trying to feed her?
What supplements are you currently using?

I would suspect a cpl months I do not know the hatch date but she weighs 24 grams and seems in good shape.
Cage is a custom built one I did melamine 36"24"18
10.0 uvb
50 watt flood light for the basking.
Supplements repcal vitamin and a calcium one with d3
I literally got her only 4 days ago.
I have tried feeding her anything she would take but I only put in about 10 Dubai a day today so I can count when I get home

RI,s do not cure themselves! Only a certified herp vet would i trust with this issue. Unless it is a proven treatment, dont try it. I wont risk my dragons health on a hunch!

Correcting them temps will improve living conditions for sure!
What type of 10.0 UVB are you using... name and type and length?

When you can measure her from head to tail and that may give me an idea of her age and how much she should be eating at her age.

Also Is the uvb a tube light or a coil/compact one?
If its a tube light then you dont need the d3, or at least you'll need another calcium supplement without d3.
Currently i have 3 of them, multivitamins, and two calcium supplements one without and one with.
What i do is calcium on week days, calcium without d3 3 times a week and calcium with d3 2 times a week with multivitamins on weekends so its still calcium 5 times a week and multivitamins twice a week.
Either way you'll need a tube light if you have a coil/compact one or your beardie will have stunted growth, a bad appetite, and mbd and possibly become blind from a coil uvb.
However since you only had her for 4 days i wouldn't worry about her not having an appetite since that could be because of relocation stress however i'd worry if she doesn't start eating more after a bit.

No substrate and a reptisun 10.0

Is it a tube light though or a compact/coil? and if a tube light how many inches?

VenusAndSaturn":daetrwh0 said:

Is it a tube light though or a compact/coil? and if a tube light how many inches?

Click to expand...

It's a tube. Reptisun 10.0 24" with a reflector

Ok I will get calcium without d3 np and I will make an apt for a vet visit. In the meantime how can I comfort her until her apt? Most likely will be monday

To everyone that posted replies thank you and wish us luck!
Doc prescribed gematacine with saline nebulizer 2 times a day and shots of fortaz every 3 days. Plus an omnivore mix to feed by hand 2 times a day.
Doctor said she is confident my little girl will pull through!
She stated I caught it early and up the temps slightly which I have done and nighttime temps mid to low 80s which I have done. In addition soak her 15 min a day.
Avian bird and reptile exotic vet specialist.