Baby bearded dragon mealworms PLEASE HELP

I gave my baby bearded dragon only 3 meal worms then I found out that she shows not have any at her size. I'm new with bearded dragons, but will she be okay? I want to do everything I can to make sure she is healthy. What would be a good worm to give her? I saw stuff about Wax worms because they are small and Phoenix worms. Please help.

Mealworms are not a good staple feeder or even a good treat for any age or size of bearded dragon, they are full of fat and have very little nutritional value, and they are actually mostly hard, chitlin shell, and this can cause impactions, especially in small babies because of their size and the fact they can get clogged up with undigested shells. If she only ate 3 mealworms, and they weren't very large mealworms, and she chewed and swallowed them without choking or vomiting, she should be fine. She may pass them undigested, or you may see little bits of undigested she'll come out when she poops, that's normal. If she starts straining or has trouble pooping in the next week then you'll want to drip some prune baby food mixed with plain, canned pumpkin (from the canned veggie aisle at your grocery store) and a little unflavored Pedialyte onto her snout twice a day, using an eyedropper or an oral syringe. If you mix all 3 up and microwave it for a minute, then mix well and test it on your wrist like a baby bottle, so it's warm but not hot, and let him lick it off, then drip some more, luck, drip, etc. Give him as much as he'll eat, then let him bask for an hour or two, then a warm bath, it should act as a natural laxative and allow him to poop. But you only need to do this if he doesn't poop within the next week. I'd just give him a warmer than normal bath once a day starting now until he passes the mealworms, he'll probably pass them without any issues within the next 3-4 days, but now you'll know what to do if he doesn't.

You definitely need to find him a nutritious, live staple feeder that you have regular access to ASAP, because from the time they are babies up until a year old, they eat very little if any veggies or greens, most eat only live insects, and they need a TON of live insects every single day, 2-3 times a day up until they are a year old, because this is when they are growing and developing. He should have his UVB and his bright white basking lights on for 1-2 hours each morning BEFORE he is given his first feeding session of the day, which should last for 10-15 minutes, and he should be given as many live insects as he wants, fed them one at a time until he no longer wants any. Then he should have at least one more 10-15 minute feeding session each day where he is allowed to eat as many live insects as he wants to, and then both his UVB light and his bright white basking bulb should be on for at least 1-2 hours after his last feeding session of the day before you turn his lights off for bedtime. This will allow him to properly digest and absorb his food. If you can get a 3rd 10-15 minute unlimited feeding session in the afternoon every day, so he has 3 unlimited 10-15 minute feeding sessions every day up until he's around 6-8 months old, at which point you can cut back to 2 unlimited, live insect feedings per day, it's much better. Also, his lights must be on for at least 14 hours every single day, both his UVB light and the bright white basking bulb.

Wax worms are fine as a treat but they are mainly just fat. You want phoenix worms, dubia/discoid roaches or crickets for staples.

If you order your live feeders online as opposed to buying them at the pet shop, you'll save a fortune and you can set up regular shipments once you figure out how many live insects he eats ever day.

The only "worms" that are appropriate staple feeders for beardies are Phoenix Worms/Calciworms/Reptiworms/BSFL (all the same thing), and Silkworms. They are both high protein, low fat, and high nutrition in general. Wax worms, hornworms, butterworms, and superworms are all very high in fat and low in protein and nutrition, so they are only to be fed as very occasional treats, maybe a couple a week. And superworms cannot be fed at all until he's at least 14-16" long because he cannot digest them. Silkworms are fantastic feeders but harder to find and more expensive unless you order eggs in bulk online and breed them. Phoenix Worms are fantastic feeders, I've been ordering them online forever, they're my staple feeder, and my young male averages between 40-50 a day.

The other adequate live feeders are crickets, roaches (dubias and other species), locusts, and grasshoppers. And you can gut-load all of these with the greens you want your beardie to eat. That way your baby will get the greens that he most likely won't eat on his own, if he does it's a bonus, though you should still offer him a fresh greens salad every day. No lettuce of any kind, it's just water and has no nutritional value, and no kale or spinach of any kind, as they contain high calcium but also high oxalates that bind all of the Calcium, preventing your beardie from absorbing any. Proper salad greens include collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion greens, chards, escarole, endive, bok choy, and arugula. These can all be fed to whatever live feeder insect you decide to feed him.

I order my BSFL/Phoenix Worms from http://www.symtonbsf.com they seem to be the cheapest, also from http://www.dubiaroaches.com I get 1,000 size large (don't bother with size small or medium Phoenix Worms, even your baby can eat large Phoenix Worms because they are soft, otherwise the insect must be smaller than the space between his eyes, do you'd want size small crickets or roaches). I think I pay $23 for 1,000 size large Phoenix Worms, and they last for a month. Feed the darkest colored Phoenix Worms first, as they have the most Calcium content and are closest to changing.

For a young, growing bearded dragon, crickets are probably your best bet, because they are cheap and more readily available than a lot of other good feeders. A growing bearded dragon will eat a LOT of live feeders. I was easily feeding Bert 200 crickets a day when he was growing. One thing about when feeding beardies crickets or roaches is to be sure that you are feeding them insects of the correct size. For a baby, a full-grown cricket is way too large. Don't feed a beardie any insects that are longer than their head is wide. Always err on the side to too small rather than too large.