Some Issues

DarkSorrow":1hmzfgwc said:

So I bought a Bearded Dragon setup about a month ago. I spent about $700 on things. I have a 40g tank. The Bearded Dragon is only about 2 months old also. When I was at my old apartment the Bearded Dragon always sat on his basking tree under the dual lights. I moved about 3 weeks ago and set the tank on top of a stand against a wall in the Kitchen/Frontroom. About a week ago the heat light went out so I bought a new one. I was using a 100 watt bulb. I purchased a "Zoo Med ReptiCare Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitter 150 watt". I'm using this in a Combo Deep Dome Dual Lamp Fixture LF-25. The problem is he's been hiding in the cave for about 2 weeks now and doesn't bask. When I pick him up he's expanded and feels cold. When I place him on the basking branch he just jumps down and goes back into the cave. He seems to be eating a little less too I think. I still seen some baby crickets in the cage an hour after I feed him. The temperature on the basking branch is only reading about 80-85F <<<< how are you measuring temperature at the basking spot ?
I see you have one those dial type analog thermometers , those things are hopelessly inaccurate and can be 25% in error so you really have no idea what the temperature at the basking spot is if you are relying on the indicated temperature shown by it..... recommend you buy some of these :
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aquarium-LCD-Electronic-Digital-Thermometer-Fish-Tank-Water-Detector-Practica-BU/252762165947?_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D6ac464a2a1b24339be32c744b2ff5cf9%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D201577608563 , I use these in all my tanks and tubs, at least two each, and they are accurate, easy to read , give you temperatures where the probe is located (on the end of 1m cable) at a glance and the their batteries last years.
and
one of these http://www.dshop.com.au/buy/infrared-non-contact-thermometer-with-laser-aimpoi/GM300?gclid=CITw5r2ay9ICFRSAvQodMBQGXg
to get surface temperatures , note this one has a spot 12:1 (means the measuring spot is 1" diameter at 12" from the target).

I also noted that you have the UV and basking lights mounted onto the top which is mesh .... got good, the mesh will block about 25% of the UVA and UVB from the UVB source (a compact UVB bulb I assume).
remedies :
1) cut a whole on the mesh to permit the UVA and UVB to pass unimpeded from the UVB globe to the basking spot
and ensure the UVB is rated at least 26W and 10% UVB at least until you can afford a T5 10-14%UVB tube and / or a good MVB..


or
remove the mesh top entirely and replace with a precut plywood lid with holes cut for the lights

or even better
remove the mesh top and replace with a precut plywood lid and hang the light fitting under it (will bring the basking light and UVB light closer to the lizard.

Insufficient heat , and insufficient exposure to UVA will result in lethargy and a cold lizard.
If the hatchling is too cold it can not digest it's food.
Insufficient UVB will result in very vitD in the blood , and the hatchling will not be able to metabolise dietary calcium and will not able to grown and can over time result in MBD.

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DarkSorrow":2yzy3wiy said:

I have a contact list thermometer that I can hold in my hand and scan an area. I was pointing it at the top of the basking branch which was reading 80-85F. He never had a problem before I moved. The only thing I changed was going to the ceramic heating bulb 150 watt. I'm going to buy some probe meters though next week when I get paid.

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