Hello. I just got 2 new beardies yesterday. Their names are Rex and Reptar. We got them because our last one had to be put down because he had gout (it was genetic). The two beardies were bought from a breeder in Pittsburgh and they were from the same parents. They are very familiar with each other. They were in the same tank when we got them, and according to the man we talked to, get along very well. For now I have them in the 40 gallon tank, and will feed them separately as to avoid one being starved. I just want to know if it's ok to keep them like this until I can save enough money to get a new setup where they can have their own separate tanks. It shouldn't take more than a few months. Also, they're too young for a sex to be identified (according to who we bought from). I will reply with any more details if needed. Thanks!
Housing baby beardies together
- Thread starter Nateb55
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It's really best if you can separate them just as soon as you can manage to get another tank. Until then, feeding them separately is a good idea. Also keep a close eye on them -- just because they're siblings who seem get along up to this point doesn't mean that things won't ever get ugly all of a sudden.
I hope you'll be able to get another tank soon.
I hope you'll be able to get another tank soon.
I will keep an eye on them as much as a can, although I have school. My parents also work. A little off topic, but yesterday when we got home, reptar actually seemed anxious and stressed after we took out rex. He was running around looking for him and when we put rex back in he ran to him and licked him and seemed more at ease. Just thought that was interesting. But as long as I'm around I will keep a very close eye on them. Thank you for your feedback!SHBailey":jvtja6vm said:It's really best if you can separate them just as soon as you can manage to get another tank. Until then, feeding them separately is a good idea. Also keep a close eye on them -- just because they're siblings who seem get along up to this point doesn't mean that things won't ever get ugly all of a sudden.
I hope you'll be able to get another tank soon.
kingofnobbys
BD.org Sicko
Been there done that, I had Puff and Rex in the same 100L rearing tub for their first 6 months , and they did look cute together. Of cause one grew faster than the other and was getting the lion's share of the crickets and silkworms and monopolising the basking spot and best (toastiest) sleeping spot, and then the physical bullying started so I set up a second 100L rearing tub and moved the bully out into the new tub.
I think I was lucky that the bullying was not vicious attacks and no one got injured.
Second brace of hatchlings a few years later - Peppa and Toothless - separated almost immediately into their own 100L rearing tubs. Very good approach separating them from the getgo, both have been stressfree and have thrived.
I recommend you house each of your new hatchlings separately (stackable 100L tubs with clear see through sides are ideal, very easy to keep hygienic and clean, durable (make sure they are UV hardened plastic), and very easy to convert to a lizard tank with a few simple tools (ie a soldering iron and an drill/driver and some cloth tape and c-screws or cable holddowns) and cheap ! most the expense will be a NanoHood , a 26W UVB200 , heatpad, simple digital thermostat, small-medium HubbaHut, and a 40 - 60W basking globe and ceramic E27 socket and some offcuts of 1/2 plywood to mount the basking lamp socket under and maybe a household programmable lamp timer..
I think I was lucky that the bullying was not vicious attacks and no one got injured.
Second brace of hatchlings a few years later - Peppa and Toothless - separated almost immediately into their own 100L rearing tubs. Very good approach separating them from the getgo, both have been stressfree and have thrived.
I recommend you house each of your new hatchlings separately (stackable 100L tubs with clear see through sides are ideal, very easy to keep hygienic and clean, durable (make sure they are UV hardened plastic), and very easy to convert to a lizard tank with a few simple tools (ie a soldering iron and an drill/driver and some cloth tape and c-screws or cable holddowns) and cheap ! most the expense will be a NanoHood , a 26W UVB200 , heatpad, simple digital thermostat, small-medium HubbaHut, and a 40 - 60W basking globe and ceramic E27 socket and some offcuts of 1/2 plywood to mount the basking lamp socket under and maybe a household programmable lamp timer..
Our friend just so happens to have a 55 gallon tank. He'said gonna give it to us with a lamp, but we'll still need to buy more lights and decore and find a place for another tank. Do you think they'll be ok for another month or 2? Btw we feed them separately as to avoid Reptar from getting all the food cuz he's the bigger faster one even though they're the same age.kingofnobbys":28v3z71n said:
kingofnobbys
BD.org Sicko
Nateb55":2r805z2n said:
I wouldn't risk it.
You are likely to need to hand feed each to ensure both get enough dietary calcium and insect proteins and fats to grow and develop properly, as well as providing multiple basking spots and multiple hides to ensure both get enough privacy and UVA and UVB and heat. Easier setting up two rearing tubs or tanks IMO.
While they are permanently housed together, there is strong risk the dominance can turn violent, vicious and bloody, even lethal.
if you take the bigger tank, you could retire the existing tank and partition it into two equally heated and lit (UVA and UVB) areas and make sure neither hatchling can see the other - all it takes is seeing the other dominant hatchling for the subservient to be highly stressed all the time and to fail to thrive.
Glad to hear you were able to get another tank. Putting them each in their own tank sounds to me like the simplest and easiest way to do it.
BTW, you don't need a nightlight as long as the temperature stays above 65 F at night (high 60s to low 70s is about right). In fact, dark is best because too much light will disturb their sleep. If it gets colder than that in your house where you keep the tanks, then the best thing is to use a ceramic heat emitter, which puts out heat but no light.
BTW, you don't need a nightlight as long as the temperature stays above 65 F at night (high 60s to low 70s is about right). In fact, dark is best because too much light will disturb their sleep. If it gets colder than that in your house where you keep the tanks, then the best thing is to use a ceramic heat emitter, which puts out heat but no light.
Just wanted to mention that you can get rocks from outside, wash in hot soapy water with a 1/4 cup vinegar [ optional ] and rinse with hot water. Branches can also be collected from outside [ nothing piney or sappy ] including nice pieces of driftwood if you can find some. You pop them in a preheated 250 degree oven for about 60 -90 minutes just in case there are any pests in the wood. I've collected nearly all of my cage decor from outside and have some beautiful pieces, not to mention it's free.
kingofnobbys
BD.org Sicko
You'll likely be feeding the two beardies in their tanks, in which case it's a good idea to keep the furnishings basic and Spartan ( providing very few hiding places for any bugs who manage to elude the beardies at mealtimes to crawl off and hide).
Basics
hide = I like HUBBAHUTS (size it to suit the beardie) - my Large and Jumbo sizesd hubbahuts double up as basking perches for all my beardies.
basking rock = if you are not going to position a branch so it doubles as basking perch, rock collected from the wild needs only to be given a blast with the hose to knock an clay or dust off it then to be leaf out in the direct sun for a few days to kill of any microfauna on it, lots use an assembly of pavers , even building bricks as their basking rocks
loosely laid floor tiles are a very good bedding, easy to spot clean.
Basics
hide = I like HUBBAHUTS (size it to suit the beardie) - my Large and Jumbo sizesd hubbahuts double up as basking perches for all my beardies.
basking rock = if you are not going to position a branch so it doubles as basking perch, rock collected from the wild needs only to be given a blast with the hose to knock an clay or dust off it then to be leaf out in the direct sun for a few days to kill of any microfauna on it, lots use an assembly of pavers , even building bricks as their basking rocks
loosely laid floor tiles are a very good bedding, easy to spot clean.
premammalian
Hatchling Member
It is standard practice small dragons to be kept together. All breeders I know keep them together without problems, and the reptile store were I get my supplies has them together. The larger ones get individual cages, or if they are females and compatible might be put two in one, but generally after 5 months they get individual cages. The small ones however live all together, approx 5-6 per cage, bask close one another and eat from communal bowls without problem. Now there is the problem of so called cannibalism. Although I have not seen nipped bearded hatchlings, my own dragon has a nipped tail. However, some others say that this is caused by problems shedding, rather than cannibalism, and so I canot be sure about the cause.
Generally nothing will happen if you keep them together at a young age. You can keep them in the same tank and meanwhile planning their final quarters, because most probably you will need to separate them some months down the line.
Generally nothing will happen if you keep them together at a young age. You can keep them in the same tank and meanwhile planning their final quarters, because most probably you will need to separate them some months down the line.
kingofnobbys
BD.org Sicko
premammalian":1b9321lw said:
Sure when you have a few dozen tiny new born hatchlings it's not practical to have each and every one of them in a separate tank or tub.
Best to separate them as soon as possible to avoid aggression and accidential nips and to ensure everyone gets their FAIR share of bugs.
They've been eating very well and growing fast, when we feed them we take the one not being fed out of the tank and we play with him and then after one is done, we do the same with that one and take him out and play with him while we feed the other. They already have places that they sleep and luckily they didn't have to fight over an individual spot, they don't fight over any basking spots and they seem to put up with each other very well. The other day Reptar (whose bigger and faster) actually waved at Rex which surprised me a lot. No signs of any sort of conflict though. Won't leave them together too much longer though cuz I don't wanna risk it.kingofnobbys":31z255ua said:
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