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Stress marks arent as prominent but he's still horribly skittesh/aggressive.

Up until about a week ago I was able to pick him up alright. Now he gapes at me and nips. I put gloves on to get him out so if he bites me I won't jerk away and hurt his teeth. I'm not scared of getting bit just of hurting him. He likes green peppers and is still poo'ing and eating like a horse.

I've tried to find collared greens or dandelion but haven't been successful so far. Also he definitely isn't gaping about food. He's gaping defensively.

This morning I noticed that he is perfectly ok until he starts basking. Then he gets dark and angry

~7 inches IR thermometer. Either appropriately sized crickets or (starting today) dubia make up his protein. The amount he eats per day varies based on his mood. Some days he eats only 10-12 crickets, or like yesterday he ate 41 crickets. He ate 14 dubia today, but today is easily the worst...

So my bearded dragon has a love/hate relationship with me. He is about 3.5 months old and just over 8" long. I've had him for 12 days and he has grown about 1.25 inches. Some days he will calmly sit on my chest or hand and even fall asleep. Other days he has horrible stress marks, dark...

Nice job! Mind me asking about how much this cost you?

All I can think of (and there are many people on this forum smarter than me, so maybe they have different ideas) would be a birth defect, broken limbs, or a combination of the two. Maybe caused by MBD. It sounds like you're taking good care of her so it could be from a previous owner/pet store...

Sick as in tummy ache and won't want to eat.

I would rule out impaction but a partial impaction is possible. More likely mbd if she wasn't taken care of properly before you got her. You might also want to have a fecal done just in case.

Have her legs always been that way or is it recent? Does she poo regularly?

Wax worms can make a bearded dragon sick (speaking from experience) and should never be given to a baby. They are too fatty. They make OK treats for an adult, but only as a treat.

Either would work. The guideline is that it should run 1/2 - 3/4 the length of the cage. The 18" might be a little better if you have a 20 gallon long. (30" long)

T5 is newer and uses less power for more light but fixtures can be harder to find.

The fixture you linked to works well. Don't get the reptisun 10.0 HO t5 or whatever it is. It uses a t5 fixture instead of a t8 fixture. If money is a problem I would buy the Reptisun 10.0 from Petco or whatever and order one from Amazon. When the Amazon one comes in return the Petco one.

I have a big feeling this is all due to shedding and temps. I don't think the vet will be necesary. A 100 watt should be enough for the basking spot but youll have to checktemps on the cool side to see if tthey're warm enough. If not we can tackle that with another lower wattage bulb. What are...

Edited that post with info on a fixture. Any regular household (not compact) bulb will work for heating. Try 100 watts that's what i have to use.

Afterthought: he might be scared/intimidated by seeing around his tank or his reflection. I had to tape plain white papers on 3 sides of my tank and remove 1 a week til they were gone. Also mine has crazy stress marks today for a few reasons. He met my cat for the first time today (by mistake)...

No, any compact florescent bulbs are a problem. Temps are between -10 and 30 here currently, so I understand the temp problems. What wattage heat bulb are you using? And is it compact or what type of bulb? Assuming you have a 20 gallon long tank (30") then a 24" fixture would be best. Reptisun...

His basking spot is way too cold and I don't think the rest of your lighting is good either. That isn't your fault, the people at pet stores just don't know much about what they're doing. Fluorescent Tube lights are the best. a reptisun 10.0 or Arcadia 12% is the best. Get rid of the metal...