abused neglected beardie please help

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okay so I have never owned a reptile before. I had been wanting a bearded dragon for about a year, a few days ago my boyfriend suprised me and took me with him to buy one off CL. I done my research and had been holding them in pet stores since I got interested in them, so I knew a little about them. I was soo excited about getting him! they told me he is 2 y/o. he looks like a juvenile ): I haven't got a scale yet but I will weigh him soon. you can see his ribs when he breathes and his pelvis. he is just pitiful ): the previous owners said they fed him 15 crickets a week and lettuce daily!! like I said I read about them and how to care for them so I know an adult should be eating more nutritious greens than lettuce and about a dozen crickets a day? right? well as I said I have not had a reptile before so I figured getting him a new basking bulb (the one they gave me wasn't giving off enough heat for him to digest) and feeding him as many crickets as he would eat along with kale and broccoli to start with. I also bought him repta boost, he doesn't too much like it but I've only fed him that twice (just got it yesterday) I feel like I need to do more but I don't know what to do. he is dealthy underweight and it really scares me.
Questions: how many times daily should I feed repta boost, considering his condition?
should I continue feeding crickets or stop untill he gets better? can his body digest them while he's so thin?
should I try chicken, turkey, and squash baby food?
should I soak him more or less than normal?


any other suggestions on how to keep him alive and get him healthy quickly? I've only had him about 4 days but I'm already attached, of course. please help my poor boy. his name is Dino btw:)
 

mistygirl

Hatchling Member
Some people!! They get a beardie and then they don't even take care of it!. Thank GOODNESS you rescued and want to be a good responsible owner! Worms are good. Hornworms, silkworms, butterworms. Dust with calcium repti-cal is what I use. Collards, turnip greens, dandelion greens, mustard greens all good greens. My beardie likes beardie bites (some do, some don't). Make sure you have the 10.0 repti sun lite (tubular, not coil). a good basking light, water dish, food dish and hide (I use one of those hollow logs). A nice branch to climb and bask on. Wax worms are kind of fattening (more of a treat). My beardie doesn't like cricks, but some do. I can't bring myself to do the whole dubia cockroach thing, but from what I read on this board, they are good too. I give my girl a bath (in warm water) every 4-5 days. Some do more, some less. If she should take a messy poo (every so often just gets all poo all over her like she rolls in it, she gets an immediate bath and you can use a very, very soft toothbrush for stubborn poo that doesn't want to wash off good. (I have one for her, but have fortunately only used it once. Good Luck! and this website is just so informative with wonderful supportive mentors and you can learn so much (I know I have and I have a lot more to learn I am sure). If you live in really cold area, a ceramic heat emitter is great.
 

AtlasStrike

Sub-Adult Member
DON'T KILL HIM WITH KINDNESS!!!!!!

Take everything very slow. Too much protein (feeders) especially could shock his system and cause massive organ failure and death.

More heat is good, definitely make sure your temperatures and UVB are correct, and start him on more nutritious greens like mustard, collard and turnip right away, but be careful with the feeders. If he was only getting a handful a week, he may very well eat so much that he makes himself sick. Start out with a few a day, nutritious, gut loaded, vitamin/calcium dusted feeders like dubia or soft-bodied worms, but not all at once. Make sure he is digesting and pooping okay and slowly build up his body condition and add protein to his diet.

It is very good that he is in the hands of some one who will take proper care of him. People should learn about the animals they are housing. Ignorance is not an excuse for abuse or neglect.
 

dragonlover3

Sub-Adult Member
Welcome :wave:
That poor little one. You are wonderful to have rescued Dino.
Taking care of him will be intensive for a while.
I don't have any experience with the Repta Boost but I'm sure someone will pop in who knows that product.
First his set up needs to be optimum to provide a healing environment for him.
You will need a Reptisun 10.0 tube UVB light. {not coil bulb} mounted inside his enclosure with nothing blocking full exposure.
He needs a basking spot to be able to get 6" to 10 " from the UVB, most say 6 to 8" from it.
He needs a bright white basking light, don't need a fancy expensive one, a regular household bulb is good.
No light at night, not even colored, they need dark to rest properly.
You will need a probe type thermometer or a temp gun to accurately measure temps at the basking spot, warm end and cool end.
{the round thermometers from the pet shops can be 20* off}
As you already know he needs good heat to digest his food and absorb any nutrition from it.
Adult basking temps usually are 95*F to 100*F...give or take a few degrees but
I would slowly adjust his basking temp up to be about 102*F to 103*F, some will say even up to 105*F, for a while. A few weeks and see how he does.
That temp will ensure good digestion and the warmer temp will help boost his immune system. It can also contribute to dehydration so be aware.
If he shows any weakness I'd remove high climbs so he can't fall and you can adjust the lights to a lower basking area if needed.
Give him something soft to lay on for comfort. Many of us have small blankets for our dragons to lay on and burrow under and to get snuggie-wrapped in for cuddles.
Of course no loose substrate.
This is only basic housing to start him on a recovery.
Here is a link to a color coded, easy to follow nutritional list of vegetation for your Dino. Most here recommend and follow it.
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
I would stop feeding the Kale and Broccoli. It's not so good.
Kale has oxalates that bind with calcium preventing it from being absorbed and utilized by your dragon, it should only be given occasionally and
Broccoli should be given only rarely. You will see on the list.
Better choices for staple diet are collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, turnip greens and most squash.
He obviously hasn't been fed so he may not be able to process protein very well right now, certainly can give him a few feeder insects but be reserved with them for a little while. I would concentrate on the veggies and hydration now.
If he isn't eating well, you can get the chicken, turkey and squash babyfood to feed him as supplement. He may like it and lick it from the end of his snout or even a infant coated spoon. {you want the spoon coated to protect his mouth in case he bites the spoon}. If he isn't eating well or stops eating, you may have to syringe feed him 2 or 3 times a day. You can use diluted Pedialyte to mix with the baby food to thin it a bit. Gently pull down on the side of his lip and squirt a bit of food into the pocket between his gum and lip. Never squirt in the front of his mouth, he can aspirate the food.
You will need to give him calcium and vitamin supplements. If he shows signs of MBD he may need liquid calcium. Drache613....Tracie can help you dose him. She will help you a lot. She is very knowledgeable and you can PM her.
Vitamins are only needed 2 times a week as they process vits slow or not well so risk toxicity.
He is most probably is dehydrated, giving him a daily soak/bath to hydrate him will help, also he may drink from the moving bath water. Most dragons will not drink from standing water in a water dish so offering him drops of water from your finger tip or plastic dropper frequently will help hydrate him also. You will know if he is dehydrated by checking the urate, the white part with the poo. If it is very dense to being hard as chalk, he is dehydrated.
He will snooze. He is under weight and feeling sick so he may snooze a bit. Not excessive sleeping thru the day, that would indicate a problem, just short snoozes. When I took my 2 dragons thru recovery they both snoozed. Some times an hour or so, 2 or three times a day for a while.
If you can, find a great vet willing to work with you and teach you at every office visit for your dragons.
Hold and Hug Your Beardie Everyday!

Welcome to the group of Bearded Dragon Rescuers. It's so horrible what some of these precious little Dragons have endured. It's a frightening unknown as to how sick they are as you start bringing them thru recovery and learn the subsequent illnesses and damage and how to care for them for the rest of their lives . It is hours lurking on this site reading everything you can to help your little guy. It's stress because you really care! And it is most wonderful to watch their recovery. Sadly some can't be saved, for those at least they were loved and comforted in their life.
I've probably included information you already know, not meant to insult at all. And I've forgotten lots things too. Others will pop in to help!
This community is just amazing! So much experience at our finger tips! So many caring people.
Amanda
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

Congratulations on your new dragon. :D We all love pictures on here! When you get a chance try to post a picture or two.
Poor thing, it is too bad Dino has had a rough start to life, but he has a great home now.
You have already gotten super advice from everyone. I will just reiterate the importance of going very slowly with him. Reptiles respond slowly so it is best not to rush them when they are so critical.
Initally I would not give much if any protein for a few days to a week. Instead I would focus on oral fluids & making a greens slurry to hydrate him & ensure his kidneys are working well. Once he has had several normal looking stools with a good amount of urates (white portion) with his stool, then he should be able to absorb his food with little complication. That indicates if he is hydrated or not so monitor if the urates are hard or soft.
Then you can begin adding the protein in slowly to help him start to gain some weight.
The heating is important but I wouldn't keep him any higher than 100-102 because he is not used to it yet so he may have the tendency to overheat. Slow gradual changes are the best.
I have never used the Repta boost before but have known people who used it with success. It should help with vitamins, minerals & hydration issues.

If you have any questions, just let us know.

Tracie
 

ashlee1638

Member
Original Poster
thank you all for the good advice! me and Dino appreciate it :) I am about to feed him some chicken/apple baby food and some squash with a plastic syringe. I have a lot more questions I forgot to ask and would be very happy if any of you can answer a few or all! :)
how long should his basking light stay on during the day?
can I wait on the UVB since I'm adding the calcium dust to his baby food and repta boost?
what is a good comfortable basking place to get him? he came with logs and they don't seem very comfy.
how do I tell if he's really 2 y/o?
he wont try brocoli, I'm going to go get him some collard and mustard greens, but I don't think he'll try those either. how do I get him to? I doubt he's ever been fed them /:
should I feed veggies daily + repta boost + baby food?
should I feed the baby food and repta boost twice a day?
how close to bedtime can I feed him?
is it normal for his fingers/toes to bend sideways?
thank you guys!!!
Ashlee
 

Nathan1995

Juvie Member
His basking light should be on for about 10 hours of the day, and the UVB 12 hours a day. Try and keep it routine. (Mine are on at 8am, then basking off at 6pm and UVB off at 8pm).
You should get the UVB as soon as possible, it really helps! (I had a recent problem with that and the ReptiSUN 10.0 really helped my girl).
A good basking spot will be anywhere within 6-8 inches of the UVB light that is around 100-105F. My basking spot is 6 inches from the UVB and her basking light.
Just keep offering them daily, and they will eventually. Try hand feeding maybe. Dragon's like and hate different foods, mine hated kale but absolutely LOVES collard greens and butter nut squash.
You should leave at least an hour after the final feeding for Dino to go and bask and digest the food he just ate.
Yep! The fingers and toes are really bendy, it's so awesome isn't it!

Good to hear you'll be taking proper care of your beardie :D , and sorry I couldn't answer all your questions! Others will chip in!
 

ShannyBeard

Extreme Poster
Nathan1995":22y2ilqq said:
His basking light should be on for about 10 hours of the day, and the UVB 12 hours a day. Try and keep it routine. (Mine are on at 8am, then basking off at 6pm and UVB off at 8pm).

I am curious about this!

I have read and been told that the bright basking light is to constrict the pupils of their eyes so that the UVB does not damage their eyes, and it also provides needed heat.

I haven't read anywhere that you should shut off the basking and just leave the UVB light on.

Can someone please help and clarify this?
 

Nathan1995

Juvie Member
I had no clue about the whole pupil protection thing, I just read it several places and have been using it for my beardie for the last few months, please do correct me if I'm wrong, anyone!
 

AllanonsWrath

Sub-Adult Member
ShannyBeard":2lie722w said:
Nathan1995":2lie722w said:
His basking light should be on for about 10 hours of the day, and the UVB 12 hours a day. Try and keep it routine. (Mine are on at 8am, then basking off at 6pm and UVB off at 8pm).

I am curious about this!

I have read and been told that the bright basking light is to constrict the pupils of their eyes so that the UVB does not damage their eyes, and it also provides needed heat.

I haven't read anywhere that you should shut off the basking and just leave the UVB light on.

Can someone please help and clarify this?
You are correct Shannon. Without the bright basking light they can damage their pupils staring at the UVB light.
 

ShannyBeard

Extreme Poster
AllanonsWrath":2xd7zyxn said:
ShannyBeard":2xd7zyxn said:
Nathan1995":2xd7zyxn said:
His basking light should be on for about 10 hours of the day, and the UVB 12 hours a day. Try and keep it routine. (Mine are on at 8am, then basking off at 6pm and UVB off at 8pm).

I am curious about this!

I have read and been told that the bright basking light is to constrict the pupils of their eyes so that the UVB does not damage their eyes, and it also provides needed heat.

I haven't read anywhere that you should shut off the basking and just leave the UVB light on.

Can someone please help and clarify this?
You are correct Shannon. Without the bright basking light they can damage their pupils staring at the UVB light.

Thank you for the confirmation.

My answer/opinion about how long the UVB and basking lights should be on is that it depends on the season. As the days shorten into winter, most people will gradually decrease the daylight to night hours to a 12 hours day and 12 hours night. As the days lengthen in the summer, the day lights will stay on longer until the maxium day will be 14 hours and the night will be 10 hours.

Both the UVB and the basking bulbs should turn on and turn off at the same time, just like the sun. In the wild, the sun is UV light and heat and it is one light coming on and off. Keeping them in captivity, we can only meet their needs with two different bulbs.
 

ashlee1638

Member
Original Poster
I went to uncle bills with my boyfriends, he bought him a frozen pinky mouse and a hidey cave like thing. we fed him the pinky mouse and he absolutely loved it. should I feed him one of these once a week to get his weight up? also, he came with 2 pieces of drift wood that he's pooped on. can I wash these, let them dry, and put them back in his tank?
another thing I forgot to mention, we took him to uncle bills with us and he sat on my shoulder the whole time while we looked around. such a good boy! :) I think he's a boy.. I'm going to let him bask for a good hour then bathe him later on. I'll probably feed him more baby food tonight too. he ate one full syringe of chicken/apples and one full syringe of squash this morning :) I think he's going to fight through this! let's cross our fingers :)
 

dragonlover3

Sub-Adult Member
Because of his malnutrition and poor condition he isn't processing protein very well at this point so a pinky mouse is a huge scream "NO, don't do it!" Too much protein at this time when he can't process it can cause organ damage, kidney and liver failure.

As a side personal opinion: I would NEVER feed my 4 dragons pinky mice or any thing live other than recommended insects. The reason being dragons do not digest bone or cartilaginous matter and it can cause a severe impaction or intestinal perforation, both lead to death. Some say in the wild dragons eat rodents and other lizards so it is OK, but in the wild dragons only live on average 3 to 5 years. Some of the reasons for death in the wild are impactions and intestinal perforation! My thought is why risk my dragons life when they don't need to eat rodents or lizards to survive and be healthy!
Many share this opinion but others disagree and feed their dragons pinkies and other lizards. Just thought I'd throw that in here. The decision is yours, but at least for now don't give him a lot of protein.
Amanda
 

ashlee1638

Member
Original Poster
oh my goodness! I figured it would be ok.. do you they he'll be ok??? I wont be feeding him those anymore thank you for letting me know!
 

ashlee1638

Member
Original Poster
oh my goodness! I figured it would be ok.. do you they he'll be ok??? I wont be feeding him those anymore thank you for letting me know! I just fed him 3 droppers full of a repta boost/squash mixture. I'll try to get pics on here, I'm doing all this from my phone so I might not be able to. thank you guys again
ashlee
 
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